YEAR: 2003
Mileage: bought it used at 32,000 last year
Mileage Current: 43,000
FIX/REPLACE: Replaced the TC with a shep racing, got the death wine, changed brake pads, normal wear all at about 38,000 mile
Drive style: normal driving, sometimes rodding, drag race 3-5 time a year

 

YEAR: 2006
Mileage: 10,800
Mileage Current: 20,000
FIX/REPLACE: IX belt noise and everything in sig
Drive style: normal, WOT once and awhile

 

YEAR: 2006 (Purchased new in July of 07)
Mileage: 10
Mileage Current: 2,876
FIX/REPLACE: Passenger seat would not slide
Drive style: Semi Aggressive

 

YEAR: 2006 IX
Mileage: 12,245
Mileage Current: 12,785
FIX/REPLACE: electric switch for rear defroster
Cost: under warranty ($0)
Drive style: spirited driving every now-and-then

 

YEAR:2006
Mileage:new
Mileage Current:24000
FIX/REPLACE:Oil every 3 thousand miles, tranny fluid, tires, cracked spark plug cover.
Drive style:normal, beat on it once a while.

 

YEAR:2005
Mileage:4
Mileage Current:31500
FIX/REPLACE: turbo coolant line(recall)free, tires(7000miles)$600[snow tires], brakes(25000miles)$800[rear rotor went to metal so all were replaced, slotted rotors,ProjectMu pads,fluid], all fluids[tranny,tcase,etc...] + tune up(30000miles)$100
Drive style: highway I plead the 5th, every where else fast but within reason (car is not a DD weekends only)

 

YEAR:2006
Mileage:35
Mileage Current:17955
FIX/REPLACE: catylist converter,clutch, shift fork,synchro's,brake pads, spark plugs.
Drive style:now iam easy, but if i have to i launche it, most races from roll.

 

YEAR:2006 IX MR
Mileage:4K
Mileage Current:24K
FIX/REPLACE: About to change pads and fluids
Drive style: Normal DD and your random pull every now and then

 

YEAR- 2006
MILEAGE-NEW(4.1) bought in June 2007
Mileage current- 7183
Fix/replace- central locking switch(replaced under warranty)
Drive style- gentle till it warms up and aggressive after that

 

YEAR- 2003
MILEAGE-Used 68,404
Mileage current- 82,xxx
Fix/replace- clutch, outer tierod ends
Drive style- beat on it occasionally

 

haha yall need to learn to drive manual haha I'm still on 1st clutch at 27,000 miles lol

 

One of the reasons some people need a clutch sooner than others is because their cars are putting out more power than stock. How much whp does your car have? A stock car could last a long time on the clutch since it's sized for that power level. If your making over 100whp more than stock then your going to wear the OEM clutch much sooner.

 

YEAR: 2006
Mileage: 7000
Mileage Current: 31000
FIX/REPLACE: Replaced brake pads twice. Still on stock rotors, but I get some brake squeek now and again. Have done everything known to man to stop the squeek, including guarenteed quiet brake pads. Really annoying. Might replace rotors soon.

Changed oil every 3000 miles. New tires at 26000, due for rotation. Still on stock clutch, no problems yet. Due for all fluids changed. Stock tranny. Might change shifter bushing and clips. Starting to feel weird.

Biggest concern right now is some noise coming from my timing belt/water pump area. Mechanic with a stethiscope probe gave me his best scientific guess and said it sounds like the water pump bearing going bad. 80 dollar pump...300 in labor. Or I could take it to the dealer an hour away and be out of a car for 2 days since it's under warranty.

Drive style: Moderate and casual most of the time. Bye-bye now and again to show the ricers or muscle car wanna-be's who's boss. Few pulls from a dig. Burnt the clutch a few times but still grabs like the day I bought it.

 

YEAR: 2005
Mileage: new
Mileage Current: 60k
FIX/REPLACE: gauge cluster (speedo was not working) warranty item, replaced clutch as a pre-emptive measure, brake rotors and pads (warranty item) because of warping issue. nothing else other than normal maintenance
Drive style: casual most of the time. launched once, get it up to 6500 or so once a week.

 

YEAR:2003
Mileage:3 (brand new)
Mileage Current:Unsure, but when I sold it it had 52k
FIX/REPLACE:Engine @ 3076 miles, oil starvation (engine was totally dry, not just a little dry), Mitsu voided warranty (User fault, I was "supposed" to check the oil on a brand new engine apparently), cost about 8k to replace, Transfer case @ about 20k miles, Dealer put wrong fluid in, cost: however much TRE charges for a rebuilt case. Everything else has been normal wear, especially for how much I tracked in. I barely replaced the rotors near the end of its 3 year run with me.
Drive style:Hard, the way the car was supposed to be able to be driven Lots and lots and lots of auto-x, track, and daily driving for the full 3 years I had it.