Hey all,

I recently picked up a '06 Evo IX MR that has a lil work and I have a couple questions.

First: I'm coming from a B-series Honda, and in that car at WOT I could quickly shift and jump off the clutch and it would accelerate fine, but in the Evo when I try to do the same something seems to "lock up" in the drivetrain somewhere... when I half powershift (clutch all the way to the floor, but throttle halfway engaged when shifting) it seems to work a lil better. But no matter what it mostly feels "wrong" somehow like I'm not shifting correctly. Is there a certain way to make the Evo shift more efficiently at WOT?

Second: The car came with a MBC, K&N air intake (w/ MAF & engine piping), and HKS BOV, and I've read that both the K&N and the BOV aren't the best mods for a stock car. When I shift the car at wide open throttle, it seems to fall out of boost badly (RPMS drop to ~3k or so RPM, and then it spools again). Could this be something to do with the K&N or BOV? Or is this the way Evos usually spool?

Sorry for the questions, this is a very big departure from what I'm used to, and I just want to make sure I'm getting everything right. lol

Thanks!

 

Hey there - few questions for you: what do you mean by "lock up?" Do you mean its a little jerky? And are you also referring to the loud "thud" that seems to come from the mid-rear of the car when doing hard shifts? If so, I think you only need to let out the clutch a little more smoothly and a little less suddenly. Nothing too drastic, just a touch slower than you are shifting presently. I hope this info helps. Also, check out the driving techniques forum for some great info. Congrats on your new car and welcome man!

 

Also, consider that a turbocharged vehicle has a little more delay in the rev drop on a shift as it takes just a moment for the intake to de-pressurize. You'll have to adjust your shifting just a little. You don't really have to shift "slower," but adjust the timing of your feet. Get out of the throttle just a hair sooner before the shift and it should help.

RPM should not drop more than 1500 or do during a shift. Either you are driving really strangely or shifting very slowly. At WOT that should be no where near 3k RPM.

 

Yes thats the BOV, try to get a stock IX dv.

 

Yes, I'm referring to the "thud". It seems to go away when I let the clutch out slowly, but then it feels so slow, lol. I guess I'll just have to work on it...

It's just such a huge jump from my Honda where I could jump off the clutch, the tires would chirp, and I'd be on my way, lol.

Yeah, I've noticed when I shift at higher RPMs (7k or so) it holds onto revs like crazy. Where should I be shifting to get the best performance? At 5k RPM or so it kinda feels like it's "not pulling" anymore or something. Guess that's just the small turbo...

And I usually shift around 7 now, and if I can get it to shift smoothly they usually fall to 5k or so, but usually lower because I'm still trying to figure out how to drive it properly.

What, the fact that it falls out of boost in between shifts? I haven't driven a stock Evo IX, so I'm not sure exactly how it should feel...

 

if your bov recirculated or just atmospheric? if its not recirculated then that could be your problem with the huge drop in rpm , maf sensor cars tend to hate atmospheric setups , correct me if im wrong im a newb to evos.

 

this will eliminate the thud between wide open shifts
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...oducts_id=1640

 

The HKS SSQV should have came with two parts when the owner bought it. According to Speed Element's site, "All vehicle specific Super SQV kits include both the HKS Triple Fin Sound insert and Recirculation insert" It is clear that the previous owner did not use the Recirculation insert that makes the BOV more MAF friendly...The stock BOV on the Evo is recirculating BOV (unpopular in today's pissh-pissh world of atmospheric valves, the wikipedia article on BOVs explains the difference.

As for the K&N, people who have gotten a tune haven't had a problem with the intake. It seems that many of your problems are the result from a bad tune or no tune.

Good luck

 

The previous owner just bought the parts and had a shop install them soon after he bought the car. He said he still has all the stock parts in storage, so should I be able to install the recirculation insert and help out the car?

It seems to drive fine when just cruising around town, so I wasn't sure if the intake was having any effect. The car put down 266 whp & 255 wtq on a Mustang Dyno (around 18 psi or so), and only seems to act iffy when shifting...

 

Its called AWD drivetrain. If you shift it the same way as FWD or RWD cars, it will tend to 'jerk'.

I had a RWD before my evo. When I got my evo and shift at WOT just as I would in my RWD, it did the same 'jerking' you were describing. After a while, I got used it and shift is smooth.

 

I'm going through the same thing. I used to drive a RWD. the AWD if pickier.

 

Set the hks up to recirculating, then get the car tuned.

 

stock evo clutches have a bit more agressive "grabbyness" to them, then your average car clutch, i drove a 2003 mustang gt and the clutch felt really soft compared to my evo

 

Evo just requires a little finesse.

 

Aight, so I found out that the BOV is set-up to recirculate (there is the tube going from the BOV to right after the MAF).

I've noticed when driving (usually around ~3k RPM or so) when I let off the gas the car kinda "kicks" back & forth a lil and it sounds like the BOV vents a couple times... BOV issue, I assume?

Another thing is the pretty ****ty fuel economy I've been getting. Half a tank lasts less than 100 miles, is this right?