evo 9 clutch install?
Everything is the same on 8 & 9 aside from the acd. When you look at the transfer case from the underneath you will see a banjo on top. There is a 17 mm bolt (long) right behind it. If you don't want to bleed your acd loosen up the bolt till it hits the banjo pull the transfer case away from the tranny and repeat until it comes out
I dont think its that hard, yet? So far everything has been going smoothy except when i bump into my fluids bucket and it spilled everywhere on the garage floor. I am on step 27, what did you guy use for that step? do i have to go out and make something similar to that?
Are you talking about the shaft on drive side to the tranny? Get a m8 bolt thread it into the shaft buy/rent a slide hammer and it's comes right out
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 37
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From: So cal.
i used the evo moto instructions.
Wasnt as bad as i thought it was going to be. I did it on the floor on my dirt driveway.
advice i have. Be patient and work smart not hard. I took off the acd banjo bolt to get to the top bolt. Bleeding was easy.
Like others said be sure you have a slide hammer available. I picked one up from harbor freight. putting the car high on jackstands helps. So, does havin two jacks and extra eyes for lowering and lifting transmission.
Good luck.
PM me if anyone has any questions
Wasnt as bad as i thought it was going to be. I did it on the floor on my dirt driveway.
advice i have. Be patient and work smart not hard. I took off the acd banjo bolt to get to the top bolt. Bleeding was easy.
Like others said be sure you have a slide hammer available. I picked one up from harbor freight. putting the car high on jackstands helps. So, does havin two jacks and extra eyes for lowering and lifting transmission.
Good luck.
PM me if anyone has any questions
Out of curiousity, I plan on getting rid of the ACD anyways (don't use it at all) and wondered if it would be easier to remove/sell the ACD transfer case and swap in one from an evo 8. I believe it saves some weight as well correct? It may be clutch time for me soon.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte NC
Just curious, since i need to change my clutch too. Would you do it over again or pay 600 to some shop to do it? I've done tons of Honda's but they are different and maybe i should just pay a shop to do it. LMK
Id also do it again myself. If you have a mechanical knack, then its not nearly as bad as people make it out to be. Just take youre time the first time around, learn a few tricks, drink beer, have fun.
Agreed! No question there. Unless the shop has done one before itll probably cost more than 600 and the second time around will be much easier (not to mention all of the bolts that really couldnt be reached with a torque wrench were given the old "Tight enough" and will be easier to get out next time
) 10k mi later and $600-800 still in my pocket I am happy I did it myself.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1
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From: Oahu, Hawaii
Best Link ever
here you go: http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tec...bc53dabc60cd48
It's for an Evo 8 but its pretty much the same. The only difference (and PITA) is that one of the banjo fittings for the ACD is right in the way of one of the bolts holding the t-case to the trans. The service manual says your supposed to do undo the banjo fitting, take out the t-case bolt, and then put the banjo fitting back on and bleed the ACD unit/system....more PITA. Luckily we were able to do it without taking the banjo fitting off. We just used a wrench to loosen the t-case bolt until it hits the banjo fttling, then pulled the t-case away from the trans until the bolt was touching the t-case again. Repeat the process until the bolt come all the way out. (One bolt you can't lose, lol)
Sorry it sounds so confusing but you will understand when you get to that step. I believe the banjo fitting is in front of one of the bolts in step 16.
It also says the top 3 bolts holding the t-case to the trans are hard to get to...they are. We went through the wheel well using many extensions and 2 u-joints lol use a friend to hold the rig up and to keep the socket on the bolt, they come out pretty easy after that.
It took us one and a half days.
Good luck
It's for an Evo 8 but its pretty much the same. The only difference (and PITA) is that one of the banjo fittings for the ACD is right in the way of one of the bolts holding the t-case to the trans. The service manual says your supposed to do undo the banjo fitting, take out the t-case bolt, and then put the banjo fitting back on and bleed the ACD unit/system....more PITA. Luckily we were able to do it without taking the banjo fitting off. We just used a wrench to loosen the t-case bolt until it hits the banjo fttling, then pulled the t-case away from the trans until the bolt was touching the t-case again. Repeat the process until the bolt come all the way out. (One bolt you can't lose, lol)
Sorry it sounds so confusing but you will understand when you get to that step. I believe the banjo fitting is in front of one of the bolts in step 16.
It also says the top 3 bolts holding the t-case to the trans are hard to get to...they are. We went through the wheel well using many extensions and 2 u-joints lol use a friend to hold the rig up and to keep the socket on the bolt, they come out pretty easy after that.
It took us one and a half days.
Good luck
Last edited by LuckyEvo9; Feb 17, 2011 at 06:46 AM. Reason: forgot some words
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: albuquerque nm
Help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
does anyone have a special way to get the bolt that's between the tcase and the tranny I cant get a wrench in there except from the top and when I do it wont break no room to move
The clutch in the evo is a day job for most shops to do it right and not break stuff. Thats with a lift,its more if you are going to be on your back in the garage. Also, don't forget about bleeding the ACD pump on the 9. Its worth going over a few times to make sure you don't burn the pump up.
I'd recommend grinding the subframe near the rear of the subframe on the drivers side . Its much easier to do once the trans is out and will really make the next guys job a lot easier.
I'd recommend grinding the subframe near the rear of the subframe on the drivers side . Its much easier to do once the trans is out and will really make the next guys job a lot easier.