nespi13

ps I did every step on the how to

dolson222

iTrader: (9)

First of all grinding the subframe seems like a strage way to go about it. There shouldl never be a need fo doing that. As for that bolt. spray with some PB blaster (or equiv) and let it sit for a bit while you go buy extensions. you need a few extensions of different lengths and u-joints and you should be standing in the wheel well with the wrench once its set up. THe set up looks like a Dr suess telescope but it will work. THen get your strongest friend to turn the wrench while you support the extensions making sure it doesn't bind or fall off the bolt head. The other benefit to having a friend do it is he will push a bit harder than you might since you are paying for the fixes. It takes a lot more effort with the extensions than it would if you were straight on. Once you break it loose, then just like others have said, loosen it as far as you can then pull it away from the trans then loosen a bit more and pull it away again. Rinse and repeat until it comes out.

Getting the trans back in is definitely awkward but with the engine fully tilted down (held by the passenger side mount) you should be able to angle twist and slip it into place and get the bolts in and close then everything rotates back up. To avoid the wave clip problem I had a hand on the mating surface of the trans while watching the slipne coming together keeping it steady and guiding it into place while 2 friends were doing the lifting and the twisting. It went in fitst try.

Good luck. As I stated a while back, it was definately worth doing myself.

Abacus

iTrader: (9)

Grinding the rear of the subframe just makes the job easier for the next guy. Its not necessary but optional. I just wanted to mention it in this thread to help a few people out.

nespi13

All the bolts are out and it still won't Sep at the top is there more then one be hind the trans case ? I've even looked at pics of the tranny Sep and I've gotten every bolt ?!?!

dolson222

iTrader: (9)

Looking at the FSM ther should be six bolts connecting them. Once they are out I would go with supporting it fron the bottom at the mating surface (with maybe very slight upward pressure) and use a wood block and a hammer to shock it free. I can't remember having any trouble with this but things do stick together and sometimes need a little persuasion. the wood block will break before the casing does so you won't damage the casing this way.

nespi13

Front support member ?

nespi13

Anyone in Albuquerque that can lend a hand I'm pay you ?!?!

dolson222

iTrader: (9)

First question I have to ask, did you remove the output shaft with the slide hammer yet? Thisa hold the two together and you will not be able to seperate them without removing this first? Its held in with a spring clip which is why it holds tightly and needs the slide hammer. Evomoto also says to use a pry bar to break it free. Also Have you dropped the front subframe down as far as possible (without the bolts coming out completely so it can still hang up there)? That should give you some room to work and move things a bit.

xpawel1995

It wasent that hard i did everything in 8hrs by myself the hardest part is bleeding the acd to get good pressure!!

barneyb

Installing the transmission is the hard part of this job. Even Evomoto pretty much skips over the install except saying a big pry bar is your friend. For beginners it is an ugly process. Now these tips are for the 5-speed although I suppose the 6-speed is very similar.

What you need is clearance both under the fender and at the subframe. For clearance at the fender I did three things.

1. Drop the engine. At this point it is only being held up by the passenger side fender motor mount. The engine can be dropped some but be careful not to smash the pulleys into the fender. I used an engine hanger and could change the angle of the engine easily by turning two knobs.
2. Those very long pointed studs that go into the driver's side fender motor mount must make assembly at the factory easy but only catch on the fender for me. I cut about half off with a dremel.
3. The shifter arms also liked to catch on the fender. So, I pulled the control housing. Be sure to tape up the opening so dirt doesn't fall in.

As I previously stated, you also need room to get the transmission past the subframe. Place the scissor jack that came with the car between the engine and subframe ahead of the transfer case (if still in the car) and vertically (business end down) and move the engine over about an inch. Be careful, if the jack falls out the engine could move back and pinch you. Yeah, that's a silly warning since all of this work is dangerous.

I had a chain fall hoist which I hung from one of the two arms of my engine hanger. You want to make sure the transmission is hanging from the hoist level because the transmission is so heavy you can't twist it much if it isn't. A nice thing about using a hoist is that you can leave and whenever you return nothing has changed.

With all this preparation, putting the transmission on is almost boring.

I went with a monoloc. When I tried to seat the throwout bearing by hand it didn't go in. I placed a large deepwell socket over the end of the arm and tried again. It went on with a loud snap.

For the rear motor mount I recommend a Craftsman 42482-GK in 17mm.

marcoEVO9

i just did my clutch for the 3rd time. This time i dropped the subframe. I will do it this way everytime. Easy to do. Makes dropping and installing the trans extremely easy. You have easy access to all the bolts too. Got any questions PM me