Im picking up my new Apex Silver X with Aero, interior kit, and brake cooling guides in 12 hours. Any tips or recomendations before i take delivery?

Any responses much appreciated!

 

make sure they have pulled out the spacers in the springs they use during shipping. Dont go over 5k rpms in the first 600 miles. I feel sorry that you have to drive such a nice handling car on NY roads...

 

I never followed the recommend break in things for any vehicle from DD, Race car, to motorcycle. Just make sure you have it warmed up and give it a few high rev passes 0-60 and have the rings seal up quicker and less likely to get gasoline in your oil like other people have issues. Once you heat up the rings fast and have them set properly. Then you will be golden. Don't fry the clutch or brakes, those DO need a wear in.

 

You know who recommends the proper break in? Mitsubishi engineers. Enough said.

 

Yeah they sure do. Thus why we have half the people the leak gas into their oil.


That's also who writes the warranty...

 

yeah this break in period has been really bugging me....so many theories on how to do it. Not sure yet what I'll do. But i think it will be hard not to give it a few nice pulls on the way home. The car has 29 miles on it. I heard that the rings need to be properly sealed before 20. very unsettling....wish there was a definitive answer. My dad has a 409 cubic in blown vette. he says take it easy on it for awhile....but when he asked some guys on the vette forums, they said pull through the gears and dont keep it at the same rpm for a long time and nothing about keeping it below a certain rpm.

anyone know anything about break in mineral oil for the first 600 miles? or should i keep it sythetic?

 

no, there's not somany theory's on break in, there's one proven way, and a way that used to be needed on old ****ty engines.


do it the right way, get those rings seated properly, the car is a total turd stock (power wise) there's no way you'll do any harm breaking it in the right way.

read this:

I've done it with everything I own with never a single problem.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


also, pick up a test pipe, a tatrix cable and a wide band 02 sensor, figure out what those things are for and you'll be driving around with a poopeating grin

 

I usually use conventional oil for the break in. Then after 1000 miles goes to a synthetic of your choice.

I use Castrol GTX in my race car with a built motor for over 25k miles at 23psi boost with no ill effects, except shorter oil life using dino oil.

But for a road going car Amsoil, Redline, or Mobil will do the job fine and as a daily driver, syn has its benefits.

I am only one person, everyone has different opinions and mentalities what is the correct way.

But personally owning cars, I have never had issues giving it a few good pulls through the gears to get everything seated properly. The only thing is do not do a lot of highway miles in the first 500-100 miles so you get a nice RPM range during the break in. Also change your oil at about 250-500 miles to get any extra metals out. Then the next one around 3000 miles, and then switch to a interval that works best for you. Lots of city and racing etc... change more often, more highway change less often.

Best way to find out is with a oil analysis. But as long as you go for 3000-5000 mile oil changes I think you will be golden.

Just because one way works, doesn't mean its the best or the only way to do something.

 

Good stuff

 

id like to keep the car legal....5.0 in my area are complete tool bags...but will def pick up a tatrix cable....what do ou think about the zchip?

 

What is the reasoning behind using dino oil for the first 1000 miles....and do i use the same weight?

 

omg its turning into another break-in theory thread haha, but good info nonetheless =).

congrats on the car man! Apex Silver w000! BEST COLOR =), i wish i had the aero package =(.

 

I would use the same weight. The idea is that synthetic oil provides less friction and it will take longer to wear in all the components. Thus using dino oil provides a bit more friction on a molecular level and helps everything wear quicker compared to the syn oil.

Then just switch to syn oil later after the first 1000-1500 miles.

 

cool sounds good to me......so I should still get on it from the dealership to my house?...about a 20 mile drive. and i wont be ale to chang th oil till the weekend...should i refrain from driving till then?

 

Btw my X has been sitting on the showroom floor for god knows how long.......should i request they change all the fluiids anyway...or it doesnt matter?