Bump, Anything anyone?

 

Dismiss crankwalk thought. Old problem from DSM cars, hasn't been seen in years.

Replace BOV, and see how it performs. Althought this may be annoying, you have to start somewhere.

Shawn

 

Ive had vacuum and boost leak tests done on it, specifically at the BOV and they havent shown to be a problem, or is it the BOV specicfically that would be causing it and not a leak.

 

Just got a call from the shop that I brought it to for tuning. My worst fear has become a reality, it is indeed crankwalk. Days like this just make me want to say FML.

 

Lame

 

Unless they've disassembled the block and seen the bearings, or unless they can demonstrate that the crank is moving by using the "crowbar trick", they're just guessing.

Given, they might actually be right. This was OCCASSIONALLY a symptom of crankwalk, but the most common symptom of crankwalk (from the old DSM's) were:

1.Fast ticking noise when you push in the clutch (it's also RPM sensitive)

2.After making a hard left turn, the clutch pedal loses hydraulic pressure and won't come back out unless you pull it back out with your foot.

3.Shifting is hard at random times.

If this is really the case, you're looking at either a full rebuild, or replacement of a shortblock.

My suggestion (worth far less than $0.02) is to ask the shop for what makes them know it's crankwalk, and if its "experience", then I'd at least replace the BOV with a stock BOV and drive the car before I committed to that. There's very little further damage you can cause by driving it for a little while with the problem. Additionally, in all honesty, I haven't heard any EVO owner complain of crankwalk. Usually the block/bearing failures are either catastrophic, or at least obvious bearing failures, rather than the subtle "crankwalk" problems that were known on the 90's era DSM's. While I can see it could happen again, the bottom end of the 4G63 has been fairly bulletproof since Chrysler and Mitsu figured this out in the 90's. Anyway, you have my sympathy if it is indeed crankwalk.

Shawn

 

yeah man I'd go with the JDM MR recirc DV- it will help.

 

It does 1 & 3. Ive had the BOV and and vacuum abd boost leak tests done at 3 different shops and nobody has found a problem. Also when you press the clutch in you can see the main pulleys move almost 30MM.

 

i would be contacting the seller about a possible lawsuit if he doesnt want to help you with the problem. He must have known it before he sold it. Did you buy from someone on here? I would tell the previous owner whats up with the car and see how he wants to handle it, if he says too bad, then thats when i would tell him i am looking at getting a lawyer and see what he says. you can file a small claims lawsuit against him in his own state but i think you will have to be there in court when the suit goes through. this sucks for you because this guy obviously knew what was goin on and doesnt sound like hes a upstanding type of guy to sell a car with this kind of problem. Hope he's not a evom member, im sure he would get grilled on here

 

nm didnt see the cw issue

 

I bought it from a dealer and they're hiding behind the "as-is" portion of the paperwork, but Im currently reading into the various lemon laws and seeing what can be done, at this point though, Im also considering just forking over the money and taking the stand point that "hey, I have an Evo with a brand new engine thatll last me some years." I don't know what to do.

 

Pulley movement is diagnostic, the shop is right. I'm really sorry.

Wasn't this present on test drive? (not trying to be ugly, just wondering).

If you got a "really good deal" on an EVO, you can mark the discount up to what it's going to take to fix it. If so, then I'd take the opportunity to do this:

https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...67a86bcc5b7979

Unless the shop you have can rebuild the shortblock cheaper and better than this, this is your best bet, but of course there's install and tuning costs involved as well.

I wish you luck, and you have my sympathy.

Shawn

 

you need to check with a lawyer from that state about there state laws on selling a car in this condition. even though it says "as is", that state might not allow a vehicle in that condition to be sold that way. where i live in wi , IL can get away with things on selling a car that wi cant. so i would def check into the laws in that state

 

Unfortunately it wasnt present at the time of the test drive, otherwise Id have tried to haggle it down even further. Im not sure whats going to happen just yet, Ill try and keep you guys posted as I continue on with the process, Im currently looking down all the legal avenues but Im not getting much help over the phone.

 

if the crank pulley moves when youn press the clutch its definetly crank walk. that really sucks that they sold you a car in that condition