Help: JDM evo 4 full swap into 05 MR
As mentioned before swapping in the motor won't be a problem however you will have issues with the transfercase. You have to use an Evo 8/9 transfercase, as the 4-6 does not line up properly with the rear subframe.
Buy the swap, then source an Evo 8/9 transfercase and intake mani.
Buy the swap, then source an Evo 8/9 transfercase and intake mani.
CRAZY is all I have to say... as for crankwalk all you need to do is ask on lancerregister.com and they will tell you all the weakness's of the e4 engine... do some research on there and you will find plenty of threads talking about the e4 crankwalk problems... weaker rods/smaller injectors/smaller turbo....
stupidity!!
stupidity!!
Last edited by joyce1bro; Jul 6, 2010 at 10:09 PM.
ok ok so i drive an Evo 4 and im gunna have to put my 2 cents in...the motor is the same but its totally not worth it to swap just get an evo 8 motor or 7 9 whatever. putting a older verison of the SAME motor it a car makes no sense inless it was a DSM 6bolt instead of the 7 bolt..as far as the 4 being weaker id say not really cause im making good power untuned with bolts ons and higher boost..when i get it tuned soon to happen (Mellon) itll be running and 8 ECU and making good numbers...ill be getting rid of this car when i leave Okinawa and ill be buying a newer Evo 8-X thats just MY opinon but do what you want man its your money when it all comes down to it
ok ok so i drive an Evo 4 and im gunna have to put my 2 cents in...the motor is the same but its totally not worth it to swap just get an evo 8 motor or 7 9 whatever. putting a older verison of the SAME motor it a car makes no sense inless it was a DSM 6bolt instead of the 7 bolt..as far as the 4 being weaker id say not really cause im making good power untuned with bolts ons and higher boost..when i get it tuned soon to happen (Mellon) itll be running and 8 ECU and making good numbers...ill be getting rid of this car when i leave Okinawa and ill be buying a newer Evo 8-X thats just MY opinon but do what you want man its your money when it all comes down to it
Swapping an earlier model evo engine into a considerably later model evo is ABSOLUTELY STUPID!! If I need a new engine I might as well get a Lancer GSR one....
Last edited by joyce1bro; Jul 7, 2010 at 05:16 AM.
I'm with Joyce1bro on this one, I mean I don't know why you would want an evo 4 engine over an evo 8 engine especially if you're stateside. Unless you blew it and need to swap in another 4g63t..but even from japan they're still expensive.
So youre telling me the rods and injectors are the same???? once you start ACTUALLY making power then you will see the restrictions... what do you call bolt ons and good power??? Once again ask on lancerregister.com like here in New Zealand they have had evo's from the start and have more experience with the earlier models...
Swapping an earlier model evo engine into a considerably later model evo is ABSOLUTELY STUPID!! If I need a new engine I might as well get a Lancer GSR one....
Swapping an earlier model evo engine into a considerably later model evo is ABSOLUTELY STUPID!! If I need a new engine I might as well get a Lancer GSR one....

ok so idk how well you learn to read in New Zealand but i said it is NOT worth it to put the 4 engine in the 8 its pointless...i know the rods and injectors arent the same...sorry i didnt make that clear but 510cc and 560cc isnt much of a difference as far as injectors go and the Rods i really have no idea the difference..i agree on it being stupid to swap....but i still back my 4 cause its my first Evo so get off my dick and keep playing with yourself in New Zealand
Last edited by Roberti22; Jul 7, 2010 at 05:36 AM.
Did I ask if it were stupid ? Are you guys paying for it ? No all I asked if it can be done. If you guys want an evo 8 motor in my car then buy it and ship it to my house. I need my car to be running. And I'm on a budget. So buying a motor for 3k then I trans for 1k and then a transfercase for another 1k is not in my budget . So guys thanks for answering if it can work but to those saying it's stupid whip out your credit card and ship it to me otherwise stfu. Enjoy the rest of the day!
Did I ask if it were stupid ? Are you guys paying for it ? No all I asked if it can be done. If you guys want an evo 8 motor in my car then buy it and ship it to my house. I need my car to be running. And I'm on a budget. So buying a motor for 3k then I trans for 1k and then a transfercase for another 1k is not in my budget . So guys thanks for answering if it can work but to those saying it's stupid whip out your credit card and ship it to me otherwise stfu. Enjoy the rest of the day!
if you stated your reasons why, then I wouldnt be on your back... ok so idk how well you learn to read in New Zealand but i said it is NOT worth it to put the 4 engine in the 8 its pointless...i know the rods and injectors arent the same...sorry i didnt make that clear but 510cc and 560cc isnt much of a difference as far as injectors go and the Rods i really have no idea the difference..i agree on it being stupid to swap....but i still back my 4 cause its my first Evo so get off my dick and keep playing with yourself in New Zealand
Last edited by joyce1bro; Jul 7, 2010 at 08:54 PM.
wow what a waste of money, downgrading instead of upgrading....YES crankwalk is VEEERY prone to evo 4's and those engines have weaker rods....
As for checking for crankwalk, jack the front of the car up, take of the drivers side front road wheel and remove the plastic cover at the back of the wheel arch to uncover the crank pully. Get a dial test indicator on a magnetic stand attached to the sump and position the needle onto the face of the pulley. Push the pulley towards the block and then zero the DTI, then lever the pulley away from the block and hey presto the reading on the DTI is the crank end float. This should be 0.15 - 0.25mm if its above 0.4mm then you have Crankwalk and you must run for the hills!
good luck
As for checking for crankwalk, jack the front of the car up, take of the drivers side front road wheel and remove the plastic cover at the back of the wheel arch to uncover the crank pully. Get a dial test indicator on a magnetic stand attached to the sump and position the needle onto the face of the pulley. Push the pulley towards the block and then zero the DTI, then lever the pulley away from the block and hey presto the reading on the DTI is the crank end float. This should be 0.15 - 0.25mm if its above 0.4mm then you have Crankwalk and you must run for the hills!
good luck
[quote=joyce1bro;8471069]Ok so it is purely for budget purposes.... fair enough...
if you stated your reasons why, then I wouldnt be on your back... 
My Fault.. but yeah im on a budget... i just want it to run. soi can stop putting mileage on my sneakers . Eventually i will swap out the evo 4.
if you stated your reasons why, then I wouldnt be on your back... My Fault.. but yeah im on a budget... i just want it to run. soi can stop putting mileage on my sneakers . Eventually i will swap out the evo 4.
YES crankwalk is VEEERY prone to evo 4's and those engines have weaker rods....( see how much better this sounds..lol)
As for checking for crankwalk, jack the front of the car up, take of the drivers side front road wheel and remove the plastic cover at the back of the wheel arch to uncover the crank pully. Get a dial test indicator on a magnetic stand attached to the sump and position the needle onto the face of the pulley. Push the pulley towards the block and then zero the DTI, then lever the pulley away from the block and hey presto the reading on the DTI is the crank end float. This should be 0.15 - 0.25mm if its above 0.4mm then you have Crankwalk and you must run for the hills!
good luck
As for checking for crankwalk, jack the front of the car up, take of the drivers side front road wheel and remove the plastic cover at the back of the wheel arch to uncover the crank pully. Get a dial test indicator on a magnetic stand attached to the sump and position the needle onto the face of the pulley. Push the pulley towards the block and then zero the DTI, then lever the pulley away from the block and hey presto the reading on the DTI is the crank end float. This should be 0.15 - 0.25mm if its above 0.4mm then you have Crankwalk and you must run for the hills!
good luck
Ok so it is purely for budget purposes.... fair enough...
if you stated your reasons why, then I wouldnt be on your back... 
Here you go a perfect example of stupidity... Did I say anything about YOU or the OP being stupid?? I said the swap was stupid... Maybe YOU should learn to read or write for that matter!!!! (refer to your 1st post) now if you read your post again which say's the engines ARE the same then maybe you are stupid... why dont you do some research before making statements... to top it off youre saying this is your first evo.... WTF?? All I wanted to do was point out that it was CRAZY to do a conversion to an older model.... You go for a ride in your so called "same engine as an 8" and I'll go for a ride in my "REAL" evo 8 engine with some REAL power...
if you stated your reasons why, then I wouldnt be on your back... Here you go a perfect example of stupidity... Did I say anything about YOU or the OP being stupid?? I said the swap was stupid... Maybe YOU should learn to read or write for that matter!!!! (refer to your 1st post) now if you read your post again which say's the engines ARE the same then maybe you are stupid... why dont you do some research before making statements... to top it off youre saying this is your first evo.... WTF?? All I wanted to do was point out that it was CRAZY to do a conversion to an older model.... You go for a ride in your so called "same engine as an 8" and I'll go for a ride in my "REAL" evo 8 engine with some REAL power...




