Yeah, but you gotta understand that when you tell ppl things like " I took my whole engine bay apart"...YOU had the money to do it.....Not alot of ppl have that kinda money. I have spent 18 grand and up on my evo....some call me stupid...some dont

And I know...to play the game it costs....but some dont know how true this statement is....

Again, not a deterent from upgrading your car...but good knowledge for someone to have...take it or not

 

you have to pay to play expect to spend 17k to 25k if you want to do a full build and make real power but his request again is for 400whp not 550+ and that's what your missing. Built drivetrain is not required just upgraded clutch and even that is debatable. Please stop with the you got money to build talk all anybody has to do is save and buy peace by peace you will get there eventually. You dont have to have it all in one month

 

I wasnt trying to say that your tcase and transmission will reliably hold the power. However, you can expect to run it for a while on 400whp as long as you arent launching the bejesus out of it. Roll racing and spirited driving arent as stressful on the drivetrain as going from a dead stop.

Pre-loading the drivetrain and launching correctly also factor into a longer lasting drivetrain. So many people dont know how to launch that its just safer to assume you dont know how to do it correctly and avoid it.

 

i recommend you also get ets ic, arc intake, spark plugs, a different bov (hks is great but for higher power i recommend tial, and tial wastegate)

in any case before this tune the chasis and the brakes, you will want to stop all that power...

 

OP

If you are planning to launch the car hard you may want to upgrade the t-case. The issue with launching awd cars hard is that the tires all spin differently expecially with street tires. So it will put alot of stress on the t-case. I destroyed my t-case with 13k on the car and about 315whp. Im sure 400whp and an occasional launch without dumping the clutch will be fine. But you can never be sure. If you race anything, **** will break!

As far as the mods for the power I think you will be fine. I just made 600whp with my red. I would think a good tune with 25-26lbs and you ll be there. If thats your goal dont go porting everything on the car because I think 400whp is reasonable with you setup. Do you have LICP, UICP? you may want them. Good luck

 

you made 600 Whp with a red?! how did u manage to do thaaat

 

check out the link in my sig:

I wanted to see how far I could push the red. After 1 year of down time I wrenched the car back to health and TTR/Junior tuned and preped the car for kill. Its tuned with speed density/stock ecu/39-40lbs of boost.

 

well,

just a few points,

1. the car will likely NEVER see a drag strip.
2. I NEVER launch my car. I hate the feeling of launching a 4wd car. For some reason i always feel like something is likely to break.

All I really will be doing is day to day driving and occasionally some highway driving, or late night clear road driving. No circuit racing in fact no racing at all...

So i take it i likely won't need to upgrade the transfer case anytime soon (if at all).

 

in that case i'd stay away from a red, you will have unnecessary lag and will need to replace clutch as well as the parts mentioned before.

if daily street driving is what you do and not even race track, i would keep stock turbo and get the rest of parts you mentioned. hks ssqv in this case would work marvelously! stock ic is good enough also. you would also save the money..

 

with my mods that i have i make 400+ and its just bolt ons witha good tune. i just do mountain road driving and its perfect for that. just do some reasearch of what you want thats what i did and then go with it one piece at a time you will get there trust me lol. just waiting on my s2's and springs an retainers be making about 450 or so then ill be pretty much set.
good luck with your build it takes time and the right parts.

 

Well, I decided to add one more thing to the list of upgrades, going to try and upgrade the intercooler as well. I figure for starters I'll go with an 'affordable' ebay intercooler, see how it is and if needs be later on in the year go with an AMS or Buschur.

Now the question is, which ebay intercooler to go with? Any suggestions?

 

yup dont waste your time with them and they heatsink like a mug. Just get a quality intercooler off top. there are always intercoolers for sale in the forums

APS
Buschur
AMS
ETS
Perrin(for your power level)
CBRD
PPI
Injen


All those intercoolers are better and if you search around can find used ones for great prices. Try to go 3.5" as well thickness

 

Ahhh thanks!

Just to be certain, instead of an HKS blow off valve (which I've been reading can cause idling problems), for 25-30psi, a stock Evo IX blow off valve should be plenty sufficient?

 

you should either get a

aps twin vent bov
tial bov

the crushed 9 is ok but waste of time to me just get one of the two above and be done with it

 

Contrary to what hotstuff believes, the ARC intake is a POS. Everyone knows this, the ARC intake is a pimp my ride mod.