I would suggest getting the EVO IX bov. I'm still using mine, and I have no boost leaks from it. The stock 9 isn't plastic, so crushing it really isnt something you do. I'm boosting 28psi on 91 pump with no issues at all on the bov.

t-case issues? I'm sitting at (or around) 450awhp, and expecting 500+ after about another 2500$ in mods. mods will end up being e85, new downpipe/dump, test pipe and 1450cc injectors w/dump pumper. I have had no problems with my t-case. the only major issue i've had is clutches and transmissions. I've had my car for about 2 years now and I'm on my second clutch, and a rebuilt transmission after grenading the input shaft.

Now it's running strong.

you have plenty of the right mods, and I've seen FPreds put crazy numbers down on a dyno. You just need a good tune, and you should have that 400awhp no problem.

 

if your gonna upgrade the fmic, you should get a licp as well. I hear that nisei works well; I run ams.

If you plan on running high boost pressure, look into the aps or tial, but if you plan on staying in the mid-twenties, a stock ix dv will do the trick.

I'm with rockmann on this one, port that red!

 

i agree with pkevo8. doing the uicp, but not the licp is a bad move. the stock uicp has restrictions, but so does the licp.

 

haaaaaaaaaaa who does not want a bathtub in the back of there van. Or a dog shower in the back of there mini van or TVs in the headlights then more tvs in the dash to complete the look TV in the headrest and one 30" screen that comes out of the door Liner now thats PIMP


All of which is functional to everyday driving

 

if he is staying mid twenties then i can see the stock 9 bov but my ideal is forget rebuying parts if you can avoid it just get aps or tial off the top and move on. YES SIR!!!!!!!!!! PORT the red then PORT the head,t/b,exhaust manny,intake manny,02 housing or dumptube. Plenty of things to be done to gain more power and better flow.

if you dont mind get the fp 3" Race pipe to aid more in spool with that licp upgrade LOL just dont be surprised when its a pain in the a$$ to install that thing

 

yeah the uicp does have some restrictions, but you don't see any real power gains from swapping it out.

 

yea your right no real gains to see from upic but the OEM one is UGLY period. Needs to be changed to give the enginebay more flavor for sure.

 

I've been doing some 'research' and from what i've found the TIAL BOV might not be best if using the stock ECU as opposed to a standalone EMS.... Is this correct?

If yes, would the OLD style HKS BOV be sufficient? I see a bunch of them for sale relatively cheap?

If I buy one of these old style HKS BOVs is there anything i need to make sure i get with it or ask the seller for sure?

Lastly, I found an APS Twin Vent, if i get one of THESE, all i need to do is buy the APS twin vent? no worries about recirc kits and alll that jazz?

 

400whp is going to be crazy easy on the ported red You're not going to need a ported head, intake or 65mm TB.

IMO
ported red
Ported O2
880's are a little small, 1000's would give plenty of room
3.5" FMIC
LICP
IX BPV
GSC s2's
walbro 255

That should put you over 400 easy and on the cheap. What octane fuel are you going to be running? Stay away from VTA BOV's unless you go speed density!

 

There is alot of good advice here. But listen to Rockman, he knows alot and can def steer you in the RIGHT direction. I know people running SO MUCH MORE POWER then 400awhp with stock tranny and tc with no issues. Something to upgrade down the line, yes. But right now you should be fine as long as there are no issues with them already. With the Red and the mods posted you should break 400. If you look at all my mods, I dont think I can break 400 unless I upgrade my turbo or switch to E85.

 

Tial is a great BOV. And tial now makes the 50mm recirculated. Great for stock ECU running MAF.

 

really ****TY octane gas.... 90 octane....

in terms of what's already been bought.

1. 880s
2. Walbro (already on the car)
3. HKS 264 Cams (yeah i know they're not the best but they came with the car)
4. Red is currently being rebuilt at FP, may get it ported while they have it.
5. AEM wideband
6. ARP studs
7. Trust Exhaust

what I'm currently doing some research on is

1. FMIC - got some really good advice on just getting a good AMS or other reputable intercooler. But man, so many ppl swear by the ebay ones and I've found ones ranging from 150 to 200.... soooo tempting.

2. Blow off valve - Debating if i should just get a stock IX valve, go with an HKS used or break the bank and try to get a tial qr

3. O2 housing. Sorting out getting one and getting it coated.

4. LICP.

so still a bit to go... just trying to get the most RELIABLE bang for my buck.

 

I personally don't know anybody that swears by the ebay core AND has a fast car you get what you pay for!

I also agree that the trans and t-case needing to be built is total BS if you arent going to be beating on the car. HP doesn't kill drivetrain on most of the rides here on evom...bad driving does! I've been guilty of it too

 

yeah i suspect if i don't find a good deal on one soon... i may keep my stock one for a few months after the build till i can just get one brand new.

I found a couple AMS one's dented, but got advice to be wary of the dents as they can affect performance.

as for the Tcase...even if i wanted to ..thats not something i could do right now

 

That would be a good idea for sure, buying damaged FMIC's sounds scary! Running the stocker isn't really that bad although it's not ideal. I ran 11.70's with the stock FMIC in place, just couldn't do it back to back due to heat soak.

Sounds like you have worse fuel than we have here in California...which sucks bad the FMIC will deff help keep the car happy with the crappy fuel. I would consider the new ETS core also if you are looking into buying a new one. Nothing wrong with AMS though, just my .02