diy fuel-tank removal
Just did this.
For the record it's a pain in the a$$, 2nd only to pulling a motor or dropping the transmission.
Here's how I did it.
1. Remove as much gas as you can. I hardwired the pump and threw a hose on the fuel out side of the pump to a gas jug until it choked.
2. Remove entire cat back exhaust. You can keep the downpipe and cat connected.
3. Unbolt side differential mount bolts
4. Unbolt rear subframe ( 8 bolts). Yes, I had to unbolt my rear subframe because there are 4 nuts holding the gas tank to the car and the studs that go into those nuts have a hooking effect on the tank if the rear subframe is not out of the way.
5. Unbolt ABS lines and Ebrake cable
6. Unbolt Upper diff support bar
7. Unbolt driveshaft from rear diff
8. Remove the three evap and fuel filler hoses from the driver side rear section of the tank. This, too, was a hellish experience.
9. UP TOP: disconnect wiring harness that is plastic fastener mounted to the fuel tank. You will have to remove both black squares under the rear seat to even reach this.
10. Disconnect Factory feed and return lines from under the car.
11. Unbolt the 4 nuts holding the gas tank and gas tank heat shield in place and get dirty wrestling it out from under the car.
Good luck to anyone else that has to do this.
I'm getting all my fuel pump housing studs ground off and replaced with larger studs so that this never happens again. Or you can just be smart and not break off those studs to begin with. It's just so counter intuitive because with something like gasoline you kind of want to tighten the hell out of everything that has to do with it.
-pal215
For the record it's a pain in the a$$, 2nd only to pulling a motor or dropping the transmission.
Here's how I did it.
1. Remove as much gas as you can. I hardwired the pump and threw a hose on the fuel out side of the pump to a gas jug until it choked.
2. Remove entire cat back exhaust. You can keep the downpipe and cat connected.
3. Unbolt side differential mount bolts
4. Unbolt rear subframe ( 8 bolts). Yes, I had to unbolt my rear subframe because there are 4 nuts holding the gas tank to the car and the studs that go into those nuts have a hooking effect on the tank if the rear subframe is not out of the way.
5. Unbolt ABS lines and Ebrake cable
6. Unbolt Upper diff support bar
7. Unbolt driveshaft from rear diff
8. Remove the three evap and fuel filler hoses from the driver side rear section of the tank. This, too, was a hellish experience.
9. UP TOP: disconnect wiring harness that is plastic fastener mounted to the fuel tank. You will have to remove both black squares under the rear seat to even reach this.
10. Disconnect Factory feed and return lines from under the car.
11. Unbolt the 4 nuts holding the gas tank and gas tank heat shield in place and get dirty wrestling it out from under the car.
Good luck to anyone else that has to do this.
I'm getting all my fuel pump housing studs ground off and replaced with larger studs so that this never happens again. Or you can just be smart and not break off those studs to begin with. It's just so counter intuitive because with something like gasoline you kind of want to tighten the hell out of everything that has to do with it.
-pal215
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2000, apex, diy, evo, evolution, evolutionm, fuel, gas, ix, lancer, mitsubishi, removal, remove, replacement, tank










