i have a 2003 evo8 with stock turbo, im getting all buschur racing parts-race fmic, upper and lower piping, turbo back exhaust with bullet muffler, intake and filter kit, manual boost controller, kelford 272 cams and a ecu re-flash tune, i am going to get the tial bov and was wondering which spring i need to use? thanks for your help

 

check on tials website. they give you a chart.

 

The spring rate is determined by the amount of vacuum you have at idle when the engine is up to operating temperature. Here's the link:

http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w3_tial_bov50_sp.pdf

 

yep, and make sure you are running 1/4" ID reinforced line (brake/fuel line) from the bov to the intake manifold with NO T's and do not use the stock connection by the valve cover

 

how am i supposed to run the tial bov? im running the stock evo8 turbo with all buschur racing parts-upper intercooler piping with tial bov flange and br mass air (maf) air intake pipe and filter kit. thanks for your help

 

How? If your using the MAF you will get much better results with the QR. (recirculated) the VTA 50mm will cause drivbility issues.

 

VTA you will need to run speed density kit which is only $100 but thats another portion you don't wanna deal with if you wanna stay stock. QR I haven't heard much bad about (I am in the market for a QR) or snypse (sp?) makes a good Recirculating bov as well. Do some shopping around as to what style, sound and such you want but there are only a few "GOOD" recirc bov's on the market. QR is one of them. 250-280ish i think from STM a well known vendor on here. check them out.

 

do not need SD for a vta. i have been running a tial vented for a year and had an aps fully vented for 3 years.

with a good tune, you can get rid of most of the bad symptoms from running vta with a maf

 

so where would you recommend to tap for vac? the FPR nipple is too small for 1/4 line and the only other vac source i see is the one that goes down by the valve cover. i currently run my boost controller and bov t'd into the line by the valve cover. further up that line where it goes to the manifold, i have another t for boost gauge. i guess i could move the gauge to the FPR but i still dont see where to run the bov line directly to the intake mani without adding a t for my boost controller.

i dont have a nipple on the turbo or on the LICP for the boost controller.

what would you recommend TiALSport?

 

^ its good to hear first hand about the no speed density VTA deal. Maybe I just read over it every time but this is interesting. Thanks for posting up.

Still easier when stock to run recirc tho..

 

thanks for the help, so i should be fine without speed density and a good tune? i am getting it tuned in about a month at AMS in rockville, md. im just buying everything i need now, i like the way the tial bov sounds but i do not want the recirculating one.

 

for sure easier. specially if you dont have any good tuners around your area.

if there are any other bov's that you are interested in that are recirculating, the correct guidance would be towards the recirculating one.

but like i said, a good tuner will know how to tune for vta. since you are taking it to ams, im sure you will have ZERO problems.

im 50/50 on SD though. i hear both good things and bad. but if you are on stock turbo, i dont think i would do sd. its just another possible point of failure later on. plus i hear you have to get tuned every few months because of weather change and all that.

im on a 35r and decided to stay away from sd been running strong for 4 years on stock maf and a vta bov.

 

you dont have to be tuned every few months on speed density. and sd is the way to go on a VTA bov. end of story. they are much smoother and dont have the rich condition in between shifts. no tuner can solve that problem

 

good info. so i assume you are on SD? do you get tuned often or do you run the same tune year round?

but i have been vta on stock maf for 4 years with zero problems

so its all really to the OP to decide. ask the tuner what he thinks. either way, to convert to SD is cheap if you want to go that route.

 

i am not on sd yet but i will be in the next few weeks. im running a tial and a MAF sensor now and the car idles horribly. the idle is all over the place and the car wants to die a lot.

i believe the only time you need to get tuned a bunch of times with sd is when you dont have some sort of IAT to compensate the air outside. you can run a IAT in the uicp or you can just have go off of the fuel temp