I would do 20. As I said, I round to the nearest number divisible by 5.

Here are some examples of what I do, personally:

31 +/- 7 ft-lb = 35 ft-lb
78 +/- 4 ft-lb = 80 ft-lb
121 +/- 9 ft-lb = 130 ft-lb
44 +/- 12 ft-lb = 55 ft-lb
15 +/- 3 in-lb = 15 in-lb

I like to say within spec, but on the higher side.

 

But now I'm very confused regarding the 2 torque wrenches you have. When I originally glanced at Precision Instruments C2FR600H, I thought it was rated from 100-600 ft-lbs, but instead it is rated from 100-600 in-lbs.

From what I can see, the required torque ratings for the strut/spring install are between 19-123 FT-LBS. How did you torque to 123 ft-lbs if none of your torque wrenches are rated for that?


Also, what about using the 20-100 ft-lb rated wrench to torque to ft-lb. I've heard they are not very accurate at the extremes.

 

For over 100 ft-lb I have to borrow a friends.

Cheaper wrenches, yes. Higher quality wrenches like Precision Instruments typically do not suffer from this problem.



If you want a broader spectrum, try this wrench as it's rated @ 40-250 ft-lb.

http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item...ckCode=C3R250F

Since it supports up to 250 ft-lb, it's a larger drive. Keep that in mind when using sockets. I have an adapter set that lets me use the 3/8" drive on my torque wrench to 1/2" so I can use it with my impact sockets that are 1/2".

 

Then I can't hit the lower torque ratings

Maybe i'll go with the C2FR600H and the C3R250F. Those two will cover me from 10 ft-lbs to 250 ft-lbs.

I know I'm going to enjoy doing this stuff, but I hope I atleast break even with these tools

 

I just chose to cap out at 100 ft-lb since I don't often deal with too many bolts that require that kind of spec. For example, the bolts that hold the calipers to the knuckles are rated at 80 ft-lb. There are other suspension components that I've had to borrow a wrench to hit them (as you pointed out already).

C2FR600H is 8.3-50 ft-lb (100-600 in-lb)
C3R250F is 40-250 ft-lb

So you should be all set.

As I mentioned above, keep in mind that those are different sized drives!

I ordered my wrenches from tooldiscounter.com, but they were back ordered and it took them two months to get me my wrench! Food for thought.

 

Yeah that's what I'm going to do. Going to go with the C3R250F first, and then order the C2FR600H when I'm ready to install the bilsteins!

Regarding the borrowing of tools, my dad always told me to avoid this. He basically said you could treat the tool as nicely as possible, but it will just so happen to break the time you are using it.

 

If I'm planning on not doing any self-tuning, does EvoScan have much advantage over Torque pro? I would rather just buy one.

I know evoscan has had an android app in the pipeline for a while, and I would be willing to use a laptop for the time being.. Evoscan is the total package, but is it really necessary for me?

I've read torque pro cannot display/log knock, but I did just find a plugin (https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...kills.kd&hl=en) that may work?

Reason I'm wondering about logging software now is I just discovered that my car hesitates at WOT (rpms barely raise and the car does not accelerate). Are ODBII codes displayed even when the check engine light isn't on? You may ask why I just discovered this, and the answer is because I never go WOT. I went WOT yesterday because I read a thread, and wanted to see if I experience the same issue.

 

if you're only getting one, go for evoscan w/ tactrix cable. If you get remote tuned you'll need it.

 

So it was my 23rd birthday last night, and I'm hungover. **** you jack daniels.

I just tried to remove undertray section covering the front jacking point, and almost threw up before removing one clip... Next purchase is beatrush undertray with dzus fasteners.

I just did some more research, and I think my problem was I was putting too much pressure when I was trying to unscrew the clips?

BTW look at how I received my PI torque wrench the other day... It's going back.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28929927@N03/8055206631/http://www.flickr.com/photos/28929927@N03/8055206631/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/28929927@N03/, on Flickr

 

What do I do for clips in which the screw spins but does not loosen...

 

You can either get one of those specialty tools that doesn't destroy the clips or use a flathead screwdriver to pop them out.

They pretty much get destroyed in that process.

 

This? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ntent=25980472

Btw even at stock height, I probably could use ramps just for removing this bull****...

 

I was thinking one of these:

 

Are we thinking of the same pins? The ones with the screw in the middle?

I don't understand how that tool would not damage the pin. It would defitely make it easier though.

Secondly, is there something special I need to do to get them off with a flat head? I just tried it, and after using all of my strength the screwdriver slipped and my knuckled slammed into my driveway. How are you getting enough leverage to pop it off...

Lets make a racecar, but make it a huge process to even jack up the car. I'm so pissed off right now. If it's this way on the X, the Mitsubishi engineers who handled this should be fired.

 

I'm talking about these little guys here:



Ideally, you want a tool that can pull the center screw out by the head. That tool will more than likely damage them, yeah.