So basically today my mechanic (only non-tuner shop that I would trust touching my car) said he would not change my oil if I brought in my own oil. Said it would be $80+tax for a mobil1 change. I was already planning on buying the tools that would allow me to do some general maitenience, exhaust install, strut install, etc. But now after hearing this I'm just going to get the tools sooner.

Here is what I'm planning on buying. Let me know if I should go with something different, need other tools, etc. I'm willing to spend more money if it's necessary. I don't want to buy CRAP that's going to break after a year.

1. Jack: Harbor Freight 2 Ton Lightweight Aluminum Racing Jack with Rapid Pump
2. Jack Stands:
   Torin T43002A 3 Ton Double Locking Jack Stands
   Torin T43002A 3 Ton Double Locking Jack Stands
3. Torque Wrench: Craftsman Micro-Clicker Torque Wrench 1/2'' Drive or maybe a Snap-On off craigslist?

All recommendations appreciated. Thanks!

Oh also, I'm not looking to die or loose any limbs so safety is my utmost concern!!!!!

 

Bumping my nubby question. I don't know who else to ask, and all the research I've done regarding the harbor freight jack & torin jack stands results in mixed reviews.

I know for a fact that harbor freight tools are crap, but it seems their jacks are pretty good for a weekend warrior. I'm thinking about the Torin stands because of their double lock mechanism.

Is it worth it for someone who is doing this as a hobby to go for a Omega 29023 2 Ton Low Profile Magic Lift Service Jack for $434 over the HB jack.

 

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=4

 

OP

I have this (http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...html-7814.html) jack and love it! I've had it for 3 years now? Have done numerous jobs on all of my cars, even pulling/putting the motor back in my evo this jack has done the job.

As for jack stands, Harborfreight's jackstands will work just as good, they are like $24.99 at the store.

Lovely thing about that jack is, harbor frieght has a 20% off coupon on their site that you can print and use it for the jack and you get it for even cheaper

Harbor freights Torque wrenches, are actually ~1lb off on reading, a buddy of mine calibrates them, and compared to the craftsman/snap-on/matco it was just as close as all of them. And they are $9.99 I love harbor freight. However, I sometimes go by the "harbor freight sells two tools, hammers, and tools that become hammers"

But I just spent $70 there the other day and literally bought a second set of tools for me to bring with me, and if i lose some, big woop. I have a triple stack craftsman in the garage filled with all craftsman stuff.

 

Thanks for that. I actually ran across that forum during my search, but I'm also interested in hearing from some evom members.

I don't know if it makes sense, but I'd rather hear a tool recommendation from some guy who owns an evo and spends some time at the track, than some random guy who changes his oil on his 89 honda to save some money. Not saying anyone on that site is even like that, but I have no way to judge what kind of person they are.

Is that jack long enough to reach the required jacking points?

Sure the HF torque wrench might be 1lb off initially, but how long does it stay at that calibration? and how long until it falls apart?

I would much rather spend more money and have something that could potentially last a lifetime (asking for too much?), than have something fall apart after a year.

 

What brand of oil did your mechanic recommend using instead of Mobil1? Not that I personally recommend it either, Just curious.

 

I'd recommend a set of race ramps, way less hassle than putting the car up on stands. Race ramps are available in a lower profile so you don't have to worry about crushing your airdam or lip, or dragging your exhaust.

 

I've been using the harbor freight special for a few years. I do a lot of tire swapping because of autocross at the events and at home and have not had any problems. I highly recommend getting a piece to not messes up your pinch welds ie... notched piece of wood or something.

 

I never asked. After making the appointment for Mobil1 change, I called him back a few days later and asked if I could bring my own oil. He said they don't allow that, so I said thanks for your time, but I'm going to cancel the appointment.

If I was only thinking about changing my oil that could be a good solution. However, I'm looking for something more versatile. For example, how would I use ramps to rotate my tires?

Was thinking of going the hockey puck route. However, I'm not too sure how to notch them correctly.

 

I recommend not to buy tools from Harbor Freight theyre garbage, get at least Craftsman. I have a shiat load of tools from Matco, Goodwrench tools, and Craftsman. I bought a few tools once from Harbor Freight and they only lasted about a week so I wouldn't trust their jacks.

 

I have that same jack, works great. I also use a hockey puck to get that extra 1.5" of lift. Make sure you always store it with all four wheels on the ground, I've been told they can leak hydraulic fluid.

As mentioned, getting some low profile race ramps is really helpful. It allows you more freedom when lining up your jack, etc.

If you ever plan on taking your jack stands with you anywhere, you may want to consider aluminum ones. I have a set of four for the track.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-a...nds-91760.html

I have a basic Craftsman mechanics tool kit that I've had since college. It's a great investment and its got just about 90% of the tools I've ever needed when working on my car. The only issue I've found is that it stops at 17mm, so I've needed to pick-up a few larger wrenches for doing the rear diff (24mm) and so on. I eventually went with an impact set for my wheels. http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piec...set-67904.html

For torque wrenches, I've been told to steer clear of Craftsman. I ended up going with a Precision Instruments C2R100F and C2FR600H.

http://www.torqwrench.com/

There are some tools where it's really worth it to shell out the dough and do it right and do it once. Skimping on anything with internal moving parts is only going to make you sorry in the end. I speak from experience here. You can get away with cheap wrenches and sockets, but things like torque wrenches, you'll be replacing it or not torquing it to the exact spec you want because the tool is shoddy.

EDIT: To protect your pinch welds, you can use these: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...and-95952.html I have a set that I use.

 

Most people seem to agree that HF sucks for tools, but their jacks and jack stands are good for the price.

So you use ramps in conjunction with your jack? Kind of confused.

Any opinion on Dial Torque Wrenches vs the split beam wrenches? The reason I ask is because this would allow me to hit all the torque ratings that I know I will need right now with one wrench vs two wrenches. It doesn't look very long, so I don't know how useful it would be

 

Yeah, some folks use them if they have a 3 Ton jack and their car is lowered. My 2 1/2 Ton with a single roller front (Torin) has worked on my EVO (stock height) and my lowered Stratus. A 3 Ton didn't fit under the Stratus once it was lowered and that was only with as mild drop (Eibach ProKit).

Using the ramp also makes it easier to set up your stands etc and get the jack where you want it.

Sure you can do with just a 2 1/2 Ton Jack and standard jacks... it's just a touch easier.

 

I drive the car onto the ramps, remove the front tow hook cover and then jack up the car. The ride height and front lip prevents me from reaching the correct jacking point behind the front tow hook.

Split beam doesn't need to be calibrated. I have two wrenches, one for foot pounds and another for inch pounds, with appropriate overlap.

 

Man equipment just keeps getting added to my to-get list... So are you telling me with stock lip, and swifts I'm going to need ramps as well? I'm assuming you guys are using racing jack assist ramps, rather than full height racing ramps?

The jack assist ramps look to be 90 bucks for a set.

Might as well put this question here as well. As far as the jack stand points, it seems most people don't recommend using the side rails. Where are the correct places for the jack stands then?