Which mods void warranty?
+1
Best way to find out is to talk to which ever dealership you work with. Some are cool about bolt ons and tunes while most void for anything. Ultimately, the decision first goes through the service manager, then to the general manager/owner, and final say is had by the regional manager.
Best way to find out is to talk to which ever dealership you work with. Some are cool about bolt ons and tunes while most void for anything. Ultimately, the decision first goes through the service manager, then to the general manager/owner, and final say is had by the regional manager.
+1
Best way to find out is to talk to which ever dealership you work with. Some are cool about bolt ons and tunes while most void for anything. Ultimately, the decision first goes through the service manager, then to the general manager/owner, and final say is had by the regional manager.
Best way to find out is to talk to which ever dealership you work with. Some are cool about bolt ons and tunes while most void for anything. Ultimately, the decision first goes through the service manager, then to the general manager/owner, and final say is had by the regional manager.
The modding bug bites hard once you start. I said I would need anything more than full bolt ons and now I'm about to order a MAP ef3, cams, springs, retainers, fuel pump, and injectors. I was all like, "350hp will be plenty." Then my butt dyno punched my brain in the face while screaming "MOAR POWER!!!!!"
Since most bolt ons that will gain you power such as an intake or a turbo back exhaust require a tune to both be safe and reach full potential, you're heading down a tough road. ECUs have flash counters and a lot of dealers will void for a tune.
The whole "put back to stock" thing is a nice idea but a downpipe is a ***** and a half, test pipe required me to alter my ROM to avoid a code, you need boost gauge and wideband at the least if you up boost pressure (some dealers might red flag that). Again most worthwhile mods that free up air require a retune
Best thing to do is call anonymously and ask what they would let slide. My dealer replaced my ECU on the free even though I told them I had to bench back to a stock ROM to start tuning after I bought it used. They also only charge like $80 and hour labor. Every place is different
Since most bolt ons that will gain you power such as an intake or a turbo back exhaust require a tune to both be safe and reach full potential, you're heading down a tough road. ECUs have flash counters and a lot of dealers will void for a tune.
The whole "put back to stock" thing is a nice idea but a downpipe is a ***** and a half, test pipe required me to alter my ROM to avoid a code, you need boost gauge and wideband at the least if you up boost pressure (some dealers might red flag that). Again most worthwhile mods that free up air require a retune
Best thing to do is call anonymously and ask what they would let slide. My dealer replaced my ECU on the free even though I told them I had to bench back to a stock ROM to start tuning after I bought it used. They also only charge like $80 and hour labor. Every place is different
Forgot to add this:
By modding, you are knowingly altering the stock reliabilty of your evo and therefore risking a wraith-style "engine go boom" scenario. If I was mitsu I wouldn't want to eat the cost of end users throwing unlicensed parts on and getting tuned by people, uncertified yet competent, in tuning the 4b11t. If the idea of at least $5k for an engine rebuild scares you then leave it stock.
You have to pay to play.
By modding, you are knowingly altering the stock reliabilty of your evo and therefore risking a wraith-style "engine go boom" scenario. If I was mitsu I wouldn't want to eat the cost of end users throwing unlicensed parts on and getting tuned by people, uncertified yet competent, in tuning the 4b11t. If the idea of at least $5k for an engine rebuild scares you then leave it stock.
You have to pay to play.
Trending Topics
Forgot to add this:
By modding, you are knowingly altering the stock reliabilty of your evo and therefore risking a wraith-style "engine go boom" scenario. If I was mitsu I wouldn't want to eat the cost of end users throwing unlicensed parts on and getting tuned by people, uncertified yet competent, in tuning the 4b11t. If the idea of at least $5k for an engine rebuild scares you then leave it stock.
You have to pay to play.
By modding, you are knowingly altering the stock reliabilty of your evo and therefore risking a wraith-style "engine go boom" scenario. If I was mitsu I wouldn't want to eat the cost of end users throwing unlicensed parts on and getting tuned by people, uncertified yet competent, in tuning the 4b11t. If the idea of at least $5k for an engine rebuild scares you then leave it stock.
You have to pay to play.
Play it safe. I had the same concerns, and I've kept my Evo bone stock since buying it brand new over six years ago. No reliability problems, no issues for the minor warranty claims (re-alignment at <1000 miles and broken fuel door spring a year ago) and frankly I don't feel the need to go any faster. It's my daily driver that I don't race, so I'd rather have it up and running on a regular basis than sitting at a shop, whether it's because something went wrong or I was getting something big installed.
Chances are, the vast majority of Evo owners haven't fully utilized their mods anyway and pushed the car to 100% and truly needed more, let alone a stock Evo.
Even tunes are iffy. An off-the-shelf one will likely be somewhat safe, but you never know, especially if it doesn't go well with whatever minor bolt-ons you have. While it's difficult for tunes to be found, dealerships can find them if they're looking for them. So if you have a tiny issue, it's likely not a big deal. But if you blow your motor somehow, they might take a look at your ECU before warrantying the repairs.
Play it safe. I had the same concerns, and I've kept my Evo bone stock since buying it brand new over six years ago. No reliability problems, no issues for the minor warranty claims (re-alignment at <1000 miles and broken fuel door spring a year ago) and frankly I don't feel the need to go any faster. It's my daily driver that I don't race, so I'd rather have it up and running on a regular basis than sitting at a shop, whether it's because something went wrong or I was getting something big installed.
Chances are, the vast majority of Evo owners haven't fully utilized their mods anyway and pushed the car to 100% and truly needed more, let alone a stock Evo.
Play it safe. I had the same concerns, and I've kept my Evo bone stock since buying it brand new over six years ago. No reliability problems, no issues for the minor warranty claims (re-alignment at <1000 miles and broken fuel door spring a year ago) and frankly I don't feel the need to go any faster. It's my daily driver that I don't race, so I'd rather have it up and running on a regular basis than sitting at a shop, whether it's because something went wrong or I was getting something big installed.
Chances are, the vast majority of Evo owners haven't fully utilized their mods anyway and pushed the car to 100% and truly needed more, let alone a stock Evo.
That's the bumper to bumper. Powertrain is 10 yrs/100k miles (for original owners). At this point, it's not so much about the warranty for me, I just don't care to mess with it anymore, having gone so long keeping it stock.
Op......
If you are worried about warranty coverage I would either keep completely stock, or only do a CBE, intake and possible Cobb AP. I don't think Mitsu checks for flashes. From what I read, changing your battery will count as an ECU flash. But I don't know how accurate that is. Also I believe there are some intakes that will be ok without a tune, and some that will require a tune. If you want to be completely safe, I would only do a CBE and then reinstall the stock exhaust if you need to take it to the dealer.
Technically if you mod your car, and lets say your power window goes out, they shouldn't deny you coverage based on your mods. But if you take your car to the dealer for the power window and you have a CBE on, I can see them making a note of that and then using that to deny potential warranty coverage on future engine/transmission issues.
I had my first Evo for over 15 months and left it completely stock. But man the X is very slow and less then impressive in stock form. Just running a cobb ap really wakes the car up and you will understand why people mod the car. Some will argue that modding the car may actually increase the cars longevity. The stock tune is very rich. The air to the engine is very restricted. I think if you do bolt-ons and get a safe tune, and monitor your car with a wideband and boost gauge; there shouldn't be to many issues. Especially if you don't dog the he;; out of your car.
Maybe you should take a ride with a fellow Evo owner who has modded his/her car. Then decide if it is worth it to you.
It's 10 years/110K for the IX? It's only 5 years/60K on the X.
Op......
If you are worried about warranty coverage I would either keep completely stock, or only do a CBE, intake and possible Cobb AP. I don't think Mitsu checks for flashes. From what I read, changing your battery will count as an ECU flash. But I don't know how accurate that is. Also I believe there are some intakes that will be ok without a tune, and some that will require a tune. If you want to be completely safe, I would only do a CBE and then reinstall the stock exhaust if you need to take it to the dealer.
Technically if you mod your car, and lets say your power window goes out, they shouldn't deny you coverage based on your mods. But if you take your car to the dealer for the power window and you have a CBE on, I can see them making a note of that and then using that to deny potential warranty coverage on future engine/transmission issues.
I had my first Evo for over 15 months and left it completely stock. But man the X is very slow and less then impressive in stock form. Just running a cobb ap really wakes the car up and you will understand why people mod the car. Some will argue that modding the car may actually increase the cars longevity. The stock tune is very rich. The air to the engine is very restricted. I think if you do bolt-ons and get a safe tune, and monitor your car with a wideband and boost gauge; there shouldn't be to many issues. Especially if you don't dog the he;; out of your car.
Maybe you should take a ride with a fellow Evo owner who has modded his/her car. Then decide if it is worth it to you.
Op......
If you are worried about warranty coverage I would either keep completely stock, or only do a CBE, intake and possible Cobb AP. I don't think Mitsu checks for flashes. From what I read, changing your battery will count as an ECU flash. But I don't know how accurate that is. Also I believe there are some intakes that will be ok without a tune, and some that will require a tune. If you want to be completely safe, I would only do a CBE and then reinstall the stock exhaust if you need to take it to the dealer.
Technically if you mod your car, and lets say your power window goes out, they shouldn't deny you coverage based on your mods. But if you take your car to the dealer for the power window and you have a CBE on, I can see them making a note of that and then using that to deny potential warranty coverage on future engine/transmission issues.
I had my first Evo for over 15 months and left it completely stock. But man the X is very slow and less then impressive in stock form. Just running a cobb ap really wakes the car up and you will understand why people mod the car. Some will argue that modding the car may actually increase the cars longevity. The stock tune is very rich. The air to the engine is very restricted. I think if you do bolt-ons and get a safe tune, and monitor your car with a wideband and boost gauge; there shouldn't be to many issues. Especially if you don't dog the he;; out of your car.
Maybe you should take a ride with a fellow Evo owner who has modded his/her car. Then decide if it is worth it to you.
I think any intake that changes your MAF housing? I may be wrong. I believe cobb only recommends using their intake. But I know of others who ran with the ETS intake and didn't need to change the tune with it. But officially when using the cobb ap, you will either have to use the cobb intake or stock box.



