hey guys well i got the UTEC and a local shop is tuning it for me but they said i will need to buy a MAP sensor(for closed loop boost) if not i will lose saftly margins built into the stock ecu and i could be suspectible to overboost. Also it will do all the data logging for me. My question is..DO IREALLY NEED THIS TO RUN PROPERLY? IF it will run properly..will it be SAFE? Since i have this sensor installed now(its like $130 btw ) can i get rid of the MAF? I am going to be using the stock boost solenoid and using xs's ABC. my mods are as follows:

agency power /60 trim turbo kit with tubular manifold
turbo Xs fmic
rc 750cc injectors
255 fuel pump
UTEC(of course) with map selector switch
helix i/c piping
hks fully vent ssqv bov
hks 264 intake/exhaust cams
power enterprice filter
3" downpipe
cat delete
cat back

also, what kind of power do you think i can expect on a kinda of conservitive tune(22psi?) 91 octane. then maybe race gas?(what boost can i run thenn..25-26?)

thanks a bunch!

 

ummm i dont think so unless thier is something i dont know but on the other hand ur gonna run closed loop i have installed and tuned 3 and never ever had one?

 

you don't need one to run the utec. Besides, you have an external wastegate. Even stock turbo evos don't experience boost creep. There is always fuel cut based on maf frequency.

 

Okay, this is a bit of a subject for debate.. But the MAP Sensor is really only used for logging.. You can use it for closed loop boost, but the way the stock boost solenoid and the bleed valve works, you won't get dangerous spiking or unusually high boost levels regardless of of how you configure the boost map.

What you do get with the map sensor is

1) Data logging boost levels(most important if you ask me)
2) closed loop boost control (if you set a target, it tries to maintain it)
3) You can use Boost levels as a reference input for your mapping, helpful if you have a troublesome set of mods that "Upsets" the maf sensor and prevents it from running normally. Keep in mind that boost pressure is not density, and therefore isn't ultimately as good or as safe as using MAF (the default input)

 

ohh, and another point.. Don't vent your HKS.. It'll run really rich between shifts among other things (like stalling occasionally)

and NO you CANNOT currently remove your MAF sensor.. I run a blowthrough style maf sensor based on a Ford Cobra setup, so I don't have drivability problems associated with VTA blowoff valves and no anomolous maf readings or troublesome and inconsistent tuning on my car. In the next few months, you should see turboXS offering some sort of alternative for the stock MAF to address potential MAF overrun issues (since the MAF isn't really a restriction, but it stops reading correctly as airflow rates go very high)

 

alright, ya i have the hks full VTA now, but i havenot stalled once. only prooblems are rough idle, jerking inbetween shifts and dips below 800rpm once in a while. What would you recomend, maybe a force recirc bov? They are going to install the MAP sensor anyways because they said its good for logging and tuning my car. DO you thinks its worth the @120? does it plug into to UTEC?

also another quick question.....
i have basically all the mods that agency power had on their project evo(same kit, supporting mods, etc) BUT they have 700cc injectors and i have 750's. NOW..i gave the tuner tuning my car the maps already tuned for the 700's, and i figured it would be a very good basline to start from(since the only minor difference is the 50cc of the injectors) now is this a good idea..and will the people tuning me car have to mess with the fuel map since my injectors are bigger?

i am also installign a 3" electronic exhuast cutout right after the bend in my downpipe..what are your opinions on this?? i have searched and some poeple say turbos dont need back presure some say they do, some say i will have less lag, less torque? I am trying to set my car up for 1/4 mile(thats why i got 264's i/e since they told me it will get me the torque i need for the 1/4) thanks malibujack!! and everyone else

 

I would tune from scratch, and not use their maps.. But you can use the maps for reference for the timing.. Fueling will be slightly different, additionally you will probably spend a bit of time getting your scaling down so you aren't making severe fueling changes to meet your target AFR's (its preferrable to set your scaling simply because it doesn't alter the underlying MAF output to the stock ECU which can shift things slightly and it will only alter the UTEC Base fueling for OLF and the MAF reading when in closed loop this will help drivability alot)

About your VTA, get the recirc fitting for your HKS, its not a bad unit since you have the ability to tune it.. recirculating will help the occasional venting at idle (high engine vacuum opens the small valve and will cause the rough idle, same with the venting betweeen shifts and letting off the gas, which is what causes 90% of your symptoms) Go to lancershop's sister website for the DSM's, and look up the 1G or 2G recirculation fitting kit, its about $30 and it comes with 2 fittings, you'll only use the one.. But it'll work wonders with the stock MAF and you'll still have that obscene noise minus the loud whistle.. Keep in mind that the HKS makes a fluttering at part throttle, that will cause some instability in your maf since if enough airflow reverses into the intake pipe, when its making that fluttering noise, its not smooth airflow.. But you'll have to determine how much of an effect that is having on your MAF.. If you have the longer intake (like an HKS with a taper) it won't have as much of an impact since as it taper larger towards the MAF, it decelerates this reversed airflow and doesn't affect the MAF reading as much.

 

I found on the older buschur intake pipe, which has the two 45 degree bends and the recirc fitting on top, if you flip the intake so the fitting faces directly towards the turbo instead of the MAF, it won't give you those drivability problems since the air is pointing towards the turbo instead. You can also reweld the recirc fitting at an angle facing the turbo.. If you have the newer Buschur intake, it has a slight angle that basically does the same thing by angling the MAF upwards and prevents direct airflow from the recirculation or the slight compressor surge that almost everyone gets at part throttle very low loads..

 

No cars need backpressure, that is a myth from the old V8 lovers putting to big of exhaustes on their cars.


As for the dump, I think it would help some but prob not worth the loss when its not activated causing a airflow disturbance in the normal exhaust.

 

you think there would be a noticeable difference in power because of the disturbance in the flow of the exhaust(due toi the cutout) i dont think it will make that big of a differnce? My major reason for doing this is because this new turbo has lag for dayssss and i was hoping this dump will free some of that up

 

Is it 3 inch?



It wont make alot of disturbance, Im just not sure how worth it it will be because you already have the cat back and cat delete anyway. Im not sure though, it is just my 0.02

 

thanks levi, im not sure either, but well see. lol. thats why i bought a cheepy megan racing downpipe of ebay for like $140 cuz i knew i am going to be cutting it up. So you got a utec now? Whos going to tune it for you?

 

I was actually gonna suggest buying a cheaper DP to see if it will help and be worth enough to ruin a nice one. Good idea



Yeah, actually it is my 2nd UTEC. I sold the first one to buy different mods, kinda like I did with my trunk, lol. I really need to make up my mind.

Not sure, Im gonna start tunning it myself and see. I wanna play with it for a while then Ill see whos tuning them and for how much. I really only want 2 custom maps. Myabe a 3rd gas saver freeway cruiser one sometime.