Can someone kindly post some timing and fuel maps for MAP based load setting? I am trying to figure out how to set it properly, what timing to set and how the fuel curve should build up. I would really appeciate it if someone can help me out. I dont know if reusing my existing maps is safe so I am going to wait till I see some maps before I totally switch over to MAP based.

Also, with map based, how do you tune boost? Does it reference off MAP or MAF? If MAP then, does it just reference of boost, but then if we are trying to tune boost, will it contradict each other? I dont know if I am explaining this right, but I hope someone understands what I am trying to say.

Thridly, hows does one properly tune timing? Do we progressively increase timing until we see timing on the ig#1 starts pulling timing? Then we reduce the MOD timing?

Thanks again!

Alfred

 

Boost maps are generally RPM/TPS based..

Depending on how "Deviant" your boost pressures are with relation to the MAF reading, you can probably start with your old map, but on the MAP referenced maps, the load sites ramp a little quicker initially, then will transition through the load sites a bit more linearly..

But start with your old map, but add a bit of fuel across the board until your sure your not too lean if you end up in a group of new cells you never used before.

You can tune your timing like that, since the ECU will pull timing slightly even when there is no knock so you can monitor that for conditions that may require less timing, Its not quite a linear increase in timing, but its pretty close, the hardest part is finding the right timing for whatever your peak boost and torque end up, since that is where you can have the most trouble if your timing is way too aggressive.

Safe starting point is to start with 3-4 degrees timing as boost starts ramping (just before peak boost) finally ending at about 17-18 degrees.. This should be fairly safe for a fairly rich (11.5 or so AFR) mixture then you can add a bit more fuel and add more timing, then find that balance as you do additional runs.

Be aware that MAP based load sites will generally always be in the same place, so a fairly rich mixture on a hot day, may get a bit lean on a cold day where the air is more dense (the main disadvantage of tuning with a MAP sensor instead of MAF)

 

Good thing the UTEC has multiple map selections. One for hot days, cold days, race gas days, etc...

BTW a little off topic, but I got the fuel issue sorted out last night. Just needed to take away more fuel. A load site was -3.5 and is now -10.5. Very nice, and I didn't even have to spend 500 on a possible spark quench issue .

Back on topic!

 

Good luck, it seems that the evolution community doesn't like shareing anything, especially maps. Why is this? I have yet to figure it out. The map I am running is the stage 1 map from TXS and slightly retarded the entire timing map. I have stopped logging a few days ago because of the new turbo thats on its way, so I will be starting all over again from scratch.

 

Ill share my maps with anyone that wants. My car is VERY modified compared to what most will want though but if you wanna see em Ill be proud to show ya

Mine also has strange anomolies in my race maps like the -5 timing where the car stutters for the launch but I could put those up as well as my pump gas and normal driving race gas maps

 

Part of the reason it is tough to find maps is because everyone thinks thier map took them 2 weeks to dial in so they dont want to just 'give it away' but really who cares?? The reason I dont just post up maps for no reason is no one ever asked me. I have tons of posts that show my logs (Which will show you the map) but my maps will be MUCH different than normal peoples and i run the car on the edge of knock normally which most people wont like. Honestly, you need to start with a base map and just tune it up to your own personal car... every car is very different and I promise it will make the maps VERY different...

The other thing about my maps is my global fuel is set at 725 scaling. You need to know these things before you use other peoples maps... Another thing to know is the base fuel pressure they run. Another thing is the injector size, etc etc... These are the reason you should never just use someones map.

 

Nice, I'm glad it wasn't something that would have required you to spend money you didn't need to.. but I still have to recommend the ignition upgrade for everyone at some point, it really helps drivability at the least..

 

Oh, and the reason I don't post maps is simply because most of the time, they just won't work the same on other cars as it does on mine, and I'd hate to have someone try a map and hurt their engine due to my different global injector settings or blowthrough MAF related tuning. I much prefer to give a person a guideline for their mods and conditions, then give out a map that may not be anywhere near what will work for them.

I'm curious to see maps, but anyone who needs a map should really not use a posted map unless their 100% certain they understand the differences between the cars.

 

I couldnt agree more! Too many people think just because thier car has close to the same mods means it will use the same tune. Especially because when people tune thier own car they are almost always tuning it close to the edge. This, on many cars, would be well over the edge at some points. Like mine.. most people can only get away with 9-10 degrees of timing at peak tq... mine is closer to 12. On some cars this will destroy them. I also run upwards of 20-21degrees at top timing.. again, on many cars it will be too much. It depends on too many things... even the type of gas they normally run could make it blow. Or the spark plugs.

 

Yeah with my new ignition, I am just touching on 19 degrees of timing where I previously was running 23 degrees, but that timing number was due to a problem in my ignition where I had to lead the timing by a few degrees to get it to fire where I wanted, and I was always at risk of doing damage if it decided to "Fire when its supposed to" My timing at peak torque is 6 or 7 degrees on pump with the stock turbo, I've gotten as much as 9 degrees but always felt on the edge of doing damage at that level.

 

Yeah.. I would assume the reason is my turbo is so much larger it has pushed the peak tq so far over to the right and I assume made it much less of a pike than what the stocker is. Im not really sure though.. all i know is it works

I have actually talked with 'Cosmo' about his tune with his turbo set up when it was close to mine and both of us were about the same type tune so obviously it works

He is a little more crazy than I care to be however He ran his car on 110 at 30psi because he felt it burnt better I dont know if I got that kind of ***** or not but we will see shortly how everything works at 30psi.

 

Still off topic, and I do apologize, but Jack.... I just ordered one, so I will be on the 'safer' side than the sorry side. I doubt I will hit the spark quench, but maybe this can make the driveablity even better and help the somewhat small stumble from closed to open loop fueling that I encounter from time to time.

To add to the topic, I too am free to share my maps as I did in the following post:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=115473

I showed my 3rd gear log, mod list, maps and hp/tq dyno numbers. I wish we could start a sticky thread with people who post in the same format I did. It would be nice to compare what people are doing in map building as I do in my map building. The only issue I could see is that a 'newbie' might see that they are running the same mods as another utec user, and just install their map and go. Weather changes, elevation changes, and the most important of all, vehicle differences, would negate the use of such a map. It should be used as a point of reference for building your own map.

Just my .02

 

Jack what type of ignition did you go with. I was thinking about the Switzer set-up, looks very clean. I started doing my own fabrication for a COP set-up but I cant find thick enough Al to use locally, The thickest I could find is 16 gauge sheets at this thickness the Al will buckle and warp.

My timing map is very very conservative, when the new turbo goes on I'll get a little more aggressive.

SGP- try closing your spark plug gap .002-.004. I had the same stumble and did this and haven't had a hiccup yet. My plugs are gapped at .025

 

I am not sure if I read it right, but this person is asking for a "MAP referenced" maps.
You can do MAP reference if you have a GM MAP sensor installed; however, without an intake air temperature sensor, it won't be a good option. The intake temperature sensor is needed for trim/compensation. My suggestion is to stay with the UTEC's default MAF reference and tune away. The MAF sensor is just not as restrictive as you thought.

 

I was also gapping at .025 Additionally you may be seeing a slight jump in duty cycle at the RPM/Load cell between CLF and OLF which could be the source of your stumble also.

Anyway, without getting too detailed, I'm running a HKS DLI-II right now http://www2.aktivematrix.com:9450/kb...de=article&k=4 this is my review on it.. I am also adding a COP assembly to it since I really like that the DLI-II unit is so small..