2.0 Build Up Resources
2.0 Build Up Resources
I have been searching and searching and searching on these forums, and DSM talk, and DSM tuners. To get some kinda info on what to get for my 2.0 Rebuild. These are my Specs, mods and Driving habits..... hope this helps you guys out.... The Purpose of this thread is to help everyone out with the Search, I'll post more stuff as i find more, any Good infomation contributions will Appricaited!
Little Info about me and my Evo
Mod List: Goes as Follows
HeadWork:
Head has been Decked
Port and Polished
Angle Job
Manley valve Springs
Manley Springs and Retainer.
Manley valves Stainless Steel Valves ( Standard Size)
Fearrea Valve Seals.
Comp Cam 280's I/E
All new Seals and new Gaskets
Commetic Head Gasket
ARP Head Bolts
Fuel
FIC 850's
Fuel Lab Fuel Regulator Kit
Walboro 255
Bushur in line Fuel Pump ( gotta Order this one ) Not to sure if thats the Solution though.
SMC Alky kit Ver 2
Compressor/Air System
Neisi Front Mount intercooler ( Street Core )
SlowBoy Racing GT35r Turbo Kit .63 A/r
Buschur Mini battery kit
Buschur Short Route Piping
Tial 50mm BOV
Bottom End
Wiesco Pistons
Manely I Beam Rods
Stock Crank/ Refurbs
ACL Rod Bearings.
These are the main Things, I Cant think of everything off the top of my head. but im sure im missing some mjor Stuff.
This is going to be my DD this is not a trailer Queen not a Show *****, this is an all out every day Car. Hence why i chose the 2.0 Over the 2.3L For reliablility reasons.
Driving Habits.
Track Visits per year: Track season up here is 9 months outta the year. in those nine months.
1 Visit a week bout 4 Runs per visit.
1 "test and Tune " day a month bout 20 passes on the day.
Everyday in and out
I drive about 2 miles to work a day. Figure i put on about 100 miles a week including some run around driving. and other things. I drive my car 365 days a Year, There is not 1 case and point when this thing doesnt get attention. Am i lying yes.... But i would like to keep it to that extreme so that i can over build and get the reliability that i want. This again is my main reason for keeping it a 2.0.
When i do drip it i beat the **** outta it. I am not one of those JDM Look Cute and pretty cars. This is a Functional Street Car. Street legal in every way. will pass emissions too! ( Hopefully )
Little Info about me and my Evo
Mod List: Goes as Follows
HeadWork:
Head has been Decked
Port and Polished
Angle Job
Manley valve Springs
Manley Springs and Retainer.
Manley valves Stainless Steel Valves ( Standard Size)
Fearrea Valve Seals.
Comp Cam 280's I/E
All new Seals and new Gaskets
Commetic Head Gasket
ARP Head Bolts
Fuel
FIC 850's
Fuel Lab Fuel Regulator Kit
Walboro 255
Bushur in line Fuel Pump ( gotta Order this one ) Not to sure if thats the Solution though.
SMC Alky kit Ver 2
Compressor/Air System
Neisi Front Mount intercooler ( Street Core )
SlowBoy Racing GT35r Turbo Kit .63 A/r
Buschur Mini battery kit
Buschur Short Route Piping
Tial 50mm BOV
Bottom End
Wiesco Pistons
Manely I Beam Rods
Stock Crank/ Refurbs
ACL Rod Bearings.
These are the main Things, I Cant think of everything off the top of my head. but im sure im missing some mjor Stuff.
This is going to be my DD this is not a trailer Queen not a Show *****, this is an all out every day Car. Hence why i chose the 2.0 Over the 2.3L For reliablility reasons.
Driving Habits.
Track Visits per year: Track season up here is 9 months outta the year. in those nine months.
1 Visit a week bout 4 Runs per visit.
1 "test and Tune " day a month bout 20 passes on the day.
Everyday in and out
I drive about 2 miles to work a day. Figure i put on about 100 miles a week including some run around driving. and other things. I drive my car 365 days a Year, There is not 1 case and point when this thing doesnt get attention. Am i lying yes.... But i would like to keep it to that extreme so that i can over build and get the reliability that i want. This again is my main reason for keeping it a 2.0.
When i do drip it i beat the **** outta it. I am not one of those JDM Look Cute and pretty cars. This is a Functional Street Car. Street legal in every way. will pass emissions too! ( Hopefully )
Last edited by Spooldyou; Jan 5, 2007 at 11:27 AM.
Originally Posted by jmartinez1170
I would recomend the new wisco 1000+hp pistons and oliver rods. I would also get the new eagel crank. Depending on how many miles you got on your motor you might need a new oil pump. You also need a head gas., head studs. If you dont have a clutch i would get twin plate or better.
Originally Posted by Ted B
Derek, you've already answered your own question.
If you're interested in 60-150 mph runs, the 2.0L is probably the better choice. Why? Simply because with the properly sized turbo and properly selected supporting mods, one can stretch the power band of the 2.0L far enough to reach relatively high speeds (e.g. 8500rpm - 136mph) without shifting into an overdrive gear.
A 2.3L will be more advantageous where conditions result in widely changing speeds, where rpms will drop and quicker spool makes a difference (e.g. short course road racing).
A 2.0L will be better if racing from speeds where the engine is asked to 'stretch its legs', and quick spool isn't an issue.
To keep the torque curve from dropping off quickly despite a large turbo, one needs supporting mods that suit high rpm torque, such as a properly selected and timed cam set, intake manifold with larger plenum and shorter runners, etc.
Also, keep in mind that long runs in high gear with a high hp setup place considerable loading demands on the engine and apply a great deal of heat to those cast pistons. The decision to upgrade the rotating assembly is a good one.
If you're interested in 60-150 mph runs, the 2.0L is probably the better choice. Why? Simply because with the properly sized turbo and properly selected supporting mods, one can stretch the power band of the 2.0L far enough to reach relatively high speeds (e.g. 8500rpm - 136mph) without shifting into an overdrive gear.
A 2.3L will be more advantageous where conditions result in widely changing speeds, where rpms will drop and quicker spool makes a difference (e.g. short course road racing).
A 2.0L will be better if racing from speeds where the engine is asked to 'stretch its legs', and quick spool isn't an issue.
To keep the torque curve from dropping off quickly despite a large turbo, one needs supporting mods that suit high rpm torque, such as a properly selected and timed cam set, intake manifold with larger plenum and shorter runners, etc.
Also, keep in mind that long runs in high gear with a high hp setup place considerable loading demands on the engine and apply a great deal of heat to those cast pistons. The decision to upgrade the rotating assembly is a good one.
Originally Posted by Derek888
With the 35R which combo you think would be better for high speed runs? I dont boost much on city streets, mostly on freeways. When I do hit the gas im always above 4k rpm anyways so I dont know if the 2.3 will be better. Most of the runs are from 60-150mph...which setup best suits my driving style?
Built 2.0, 8k max
2.3, 7k max.
I may lose 500 max on spool with the 2.3 but I would probably get extra 1000 rpms with the built 2.0? Will the 35R shine up to 8k or does it drop off at 7k?
Built 2.0, 8k max
2.3, 7k max.
I may lose 500 max on spool with the 2.3 but I would probably get extra 1000 rpms with the built 2.0? Will the 35R shine up to 8k or does it drop off at 7k?
Originally Posted by Ted B
Even if that were true, the small hp difference is not the advantage a 2.0L has over a 2.3L. When it comes to high speed, high rpm performance, the advantage of a 2.0L is better high rpm efficiency and the ability to rev higher (read: more safely) in 4th gear.
Originally Posted by Ted B
The test in question shows the 2.3L hp taking a nose dive above 7500rpm, which means that the optimum shift point has one shifting into 5th gear around 120mph - and racing in 5th doesn't work very well. Meanwhile, the 2.0L keeps building power past 8000rpm.
But this discussion isn't about street races, it's about highway races.
When they disassemble the motors after 30-40k miles (assuming they go that far - or go that far between rebuilds), then we'll find out if there are issues.
But this discussion isn't about street races, it's about highway races.
When they disassemble the motors after 30-40k miles (assuming they go that far - or go that far between rebuilds), then we'll find out if there are issues.
Fuel
Looks good. As for the fuel try out the Buschur HO pump. Also, David has just come up with a 2 pump setup that fits in the factory location. No need for an inline pump anymore.
Originally Posted by Spooldyou
more
Originally Posted by Gusl
Looks good. As for the fuel try out the Buschur HO pump. Also, David has just come up with a 2 pump setup that fits in the factory location. No need for an inline pump anymore.
Cool, I'll look into that BR alway makes some good stuff!
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