thanx angel of mercy. i am new to the tuning world so my knowledge with the afc is not far beyond the basics. with my settings that i posted above and my hi/lo throttle positions what would you suggest i should do? change my throttle position to something more what you have? and maybe add a couple of points from 4200rpm and beyond? also do you have any ideas why my settings are so dramatically different than the others on here. i've got positive numbers(adding fuel) across the rpm range and am still lean. some of the others on here are all negative(taking fuel away) and still talking about running rich. thanx jason

 

Go back to the shop and demand a retune. With 13.0 AFR's, you risk damaging your engine in the long run (and risk blowing it up too).

 

Anything leaner than 11.8 over 4000rpm is gonna be a bit lean for my tastes, and 13.22 is just SCARY lean..

Ok.. Your numbers are actually the same anomoly I experienced with my car.. However your th-lo settings should be around 30 and your high-th around 60 or so... (Thats the TPS reading, anything below 30 will just be ignored since it will be closed loop, therefore its likely your settings are being biased strangely due to your settings)

With that said, your numbers reflect (at lower RPM) a similar pattern of needing to add fuel.. your mods were similar to mine at the time and I found I had to add significant fuel..

Very very very important.. Reset your lo-th and hi-th settings.. and get the car retuned! Your MAF pipe (intake) is likely affecting the MAF sensor's air volume so its reading much lower than it should, therefore causing the car to run much leaner.. You need to add another 2% fuel assuming your not bumping into fuel cut.. But its very important to set the S-AFC correctly for the open loop transition point and the high throttle point (where you will get 100% fuel compensation) otherwise your settings now are defeating the SAFC's ability to tween the settings based on throttle position..

Honestly, the shop you had it tuned at should have picked up on that, and if they know turbo cars, they should never have let you out the door with that lean an AFR over 5000rpm...

 

give that thing some more fuel. Who ever tuned that is a idiot. Any thing over 11.8 is way to lean and you'll start to melt some pistons for sure at 13.22/1

 

Adding more fuel is adding or lowering the numbers in AFC? it takes numbers away from the MAF's reading right?

 

well i don't think i wanna go back to that shop for a tune. my best bet would be to get a wideband o2 and tune it myself. any recommendations on a wideband? i was thinking of getting the ams uego. if i get this system would i have to get the ems also? or could i just get the sensor and gauge and still tune with my afcII? thanx jason

 

Here is the wideband that I use to tune, it outputs the voltage as well so you can convert your car or use it on a standalone later on. Very affordable also.


http://www.plxdevices.com/onlinestore_domestic.htm

 

cool that's about $100 cheaper than the aem. do you know how accurate it is? which one do you have? and if i order the m-300 kit does it come with everything i need to install, or do i have to get an o2 bung from somewhere else? thanx jason

 

It is accurate down to the 100th decimal place in AFR with the 5 wire bosch sensor. I use the 300 and I took off my test pipe and had a bung welded on it for 15 bucks at a local exhaust shop then I was ready to roll. I output my 5v to my extra harness on my Blitz ID and Speed Power Meter so I can data log my results on the data signal along with boost and others. It works like a glove man the best 300 that I have spent in a while and no laptop needed in the car. You will be supprised on how much 1-2% changes in your afc will make. I tuned my car between 11.1 to 11.3 afr on 93 pump and it is now more consistant and I can change it saftly anytime I feel the need. This way you get to make your own decision on your car! Hope it helps!

GTVEVO

 

I agree. whoever tuned that is an idiot..


I dont touch my tune below 3k.. coz that is my economy zone...

This is how you should tune it...

1) Run a dyno run with all settings 0 for at least 3 WOT runs to get a proper AFR chart (you need a few runs to let the MMC cpu to adapt to your components to get maximum efficiency)
2) The stock should look like a slope from left (AFR 14+ )to a level right (AFR 10 nish) and should be quite smooth. The general idea is to shift that curve up to give another smooth curve but this time with the level higher up into the 11-12.1 AFR areas. The idea being to trick the MMC ECU that less air is available hence to lower fuel levels so in actuality we keep the same about of air with less fuel hence creating a more explosive air fuel mixture.
3) Adjust your boost to the level you do your high end runs in... e.g. 1.2 bar or 1.3 bar depending on your components. (I got mine running with 1.5 bar but seldom used)
4) Now run the dyno a few times for the MMC ECU to get used to the boost level
5) Adjust your high to 30 and low to 30 (so you get almost immediate sAFC corrections) you can adjust this to your needs later.
6) Increase the SAFC curve all up from 3K to 7600 rpm up by -4 percent. Run Dyno WOT minimum 3 runs..
7) See AFR.. are curves getting closer? increase in power? increase in torgue? are there any spikes? Repeat 4-6 until you get a smooth level as necessary -1% at a time.

Note: You may not get a curve as smooth as the MMC ECU maps... If you overshoot and knocking or timing is pulled... then +1% until resolved.

Keep these few things in mind always when doing your tuning..

1) Watch for knock (have a knock sensor or use the SAFCII sensor but calibrated when the engine is idle from normal operation) Turn on the time charting for the SAFCII and you'll see what you need to do.. if there is a lot of knock (+100) then you need to add fuel by +%fuel instead of -% fuel.

2) If you have fuel, gas, oil press.. make sure you watch them. If anything is amiss, stop and revise. Remember, dyno runs are high stress for our engines...

3) Always take into account uncontrollable/unforseeables like bad fuel, weather etc when doing your run and adjust your ECU accordingly so you get an all weather map. Remember, bad fuel with high strung tunes can kill your car and maybe you too.

4) U know you are risking your car's engine...

BTW, dont forget to put a printout of your dyno runs here when done

 

thanx angel of mercy. first of all i ordered a wideband last night that i can data log with so i can see my fuel curve. the one thing that i have a question about is with my settings now being in the +% and still running lean based on my dyno chart won't it be kind of risky to set it all to 0? because therefore i will be taking fuel away when i already need fuel. but then again my dyno chart could be wrong. maybe there o2 reads wrong, because 13+ seems so high. i guess i'll find out this weekend when i get my o2. thanx jason

BTW does anyone have any good examples of their fuel curves that they can post to give me a better idea of what i want to see. obviously the one i have in front of me is not a good example to follow. i know what range i want to end up in (11.3-11.8ish) but not sure what i should see at the midrange rpm's leading up to that.

 

Do a dyno run with everything 0% for at least 3 WOT runs... then you'll get a baseline for the MMC ECU with your components (the ECU automatically adjusts your maps to suit your components). After that, you should have a standard AFR.. 14:1 - 10:1.... adjust from there... subtract 1% at a time... it takes time... lots of it.....

Also, do check the connections of the SAFC to make sure everything is correct....


AFR curve

1 + 14:1 AFR (do not touch) 1k RPM
2 ++
3 +++
4 +++++
5 +++++++
6 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 12.1:1 AFR (max) 7600 rpm
R -1-----2-----3------4------5------6-----7-----8

The shape above is what you should be aiming for. A level mix from boost upwards... but shapes tend to vary slightly (not easy to get a level line)

 

after reading some posts i decided to go with this setting: almost looks like AMS setting but wondering if this setting is safe also.... for quite some time before
i hit the dyno and get it right..... so

HI: 30% LO: 60%

5.2k 5.8k 6.4k 7.0k 7.6k
-2% -8% -10% -11% -12%

i got mods below: thanks

 

i got my wideband hooked up and it works great. i recommend anyone trying to tune the afc to invest in a wideband. it makes everything so much easier. so i just finished up on my late night tuning and my fuel curve is pretty smooth now. at 5460rpm i'm at 12.3:1, at 6200rpm i'm at 11.6:1, and at 7020rpm i'm at 11.5:1. noticed a nice jump in power. thanx for the help everyone. jason

 

MOD, please move this to the SAFC tuning section... please