LC-1 and DB gauge wiring problems?
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From: Ft Lauderdale, FL
LC-1 and DB gauge wiring problems?
hello all, as any other newb to the Innovate World, i am having trouble getting the LC-1 and DB to be accurate.
my gauge works fine, but it is not accurate, i do not have a Serial to USB cable to check the LC-1 on my laptop. heres the problem, for the illumination of the DB gauge wire (purple) i ended up tapping into my Boost gauge's illumination wire, but inorder for me to get to that wire i had to cut open some of the insulation (thick rubber material) covering all of the Boost gauge wires, so i did it, some how i must have touched the wires while i was cutting the insulation and i lost Audio on my headunit (boost gauge is connected to fuse box).... well it took me acouple of days to figure out what i had done, but while i had no audio on the headunit, the gauge seemd to be working accurately. now i fixed the Audio problem by covering all my boost gauge wires with some electrical tape, since i couldnt see where i had made the cuts... and my headunit came back to life. unfortunately my LC1 didnt seem to like it, and now it is reading off again, i would say its off by 1~.7 rich...
i have my DB power wire tapped into the LC-1 power wire... could this be the cause of its miss readings? and the LC1 power is connected to an "add a fuse" with constant 12v, that does not cut off when the car cranksup.
my two LC-1 grounds, blue and white wire, are connected to the same ground location but on different bolts (on the side of the fuse box, by driver side door).
my DB ground is tapped to the White LC1 ground. DB blue tapped to LC1 Brown. all my connections are soldered/shrinktubed.
im open to any suggestions, ive been messing with this unit for 2 weeks now and i have no clue what else to try...
-do i need to use the plug with this (DB) gauge? i know you use it with the XD....
-i dont get any errors on teh LED...
and as per the instructions i have the LED and push button wired to the calibration (black) lc1 wire, and they are grounded to the Heater ground on the LC1...
Rudy.
my gauge works fine, but it is not accurate, i do not have a Serial to USB cable to check the LC-1 on my laptop. heres the problem, for the illumination of the DB gauge wire (purple) i ended up tapping into my Boost gauge's illumination wire, but inorder for me to get to that wire i had to cut open some of the insulation (thick rubber material) covering all of the Boost gauge wires, so i did it, some how i must have touched the wires while i was cutting the insulation and i lost Audio on my headunit (boost gauge is connected to fuse box).... well it took me acouple of days to figure out what i had done, but while i had no audio on the headunit, the gauge seemd to be working accurately. now i fixed the Audio problem by covering all my boost gauge wires with some electrical tape, since i couldnt see where i had made the cuts... and my headunit came back to life. unfortunately my LC1 didnt seem to like it, and now it is reading off again, i would say its off by 1~.7 rich...
i have my DB power wire tapped into the LC-1 power wire... could this be the cause of its miss readings? and the LC1 power is connected to an "add a fuse" with constant 12v, that does not cut off when the car cranksup.
my two LC-1 grounds, blue and white wire, are connected to the same ground location but on different bolts (on the side of the fuse box, by driver side door).
my DB ground is tapped to the White LC1 ground. DB blue tapped to LC1 Brown. all my connections are soldered/shrinktubed.
im open to any suggestions, ive been messing with this unit for 2 weeks now and i have no clue what else to try...
-do i need to use the plug with this (DB) gauge? i know you use it with the XD....
-i dont get any errors on teh LED...
and as per the instructions i have the LED and push button wired to the calibration (black) lc1 wire, and they are grounded to the Heater ground on the LC1...
Rudy.
no you dont use the "plug thing" thats just for the XD. Its very odd that you say its off by .7 a/f. Usually when this happens with innovate it either reads 7 then to like 20.9 in the gauge or logging. Try and recalibrating it and see what it does. Maybe your just running a lean. Did you get tuned with a tail pipe sniffer?
Last edited by kreionic; Apr 7, 2008 at 01:22 PM.
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From: Ft Lauderdale, FL
ill relocate them, one of the guys here had mentioned that his lc1 was working with teh grounds right behind the fuse box, i had it like that before and it was the same thing. ill try it again...
yea... ive tried recalibrating it every time i change grounds or power... and nothing... ill give the Gauge it own power instead of keeping it tapped to the LC1... and ill recalibrate it again
no tail pipe sniffer... but he said i should see low 11s on the gauge when on 3rd from 3k rpms going up. and right now it shows low 12s
no you dont use the "plug thing" thats just for the XD. Its very odd that you say its off by .7 a/f. Usually when this happens with innovate it either reads 7 then to like 20.9 in the gauge or logging. Try and recalibrating it and see what it does. Maybe your just running a tad rich. Did you get tuned with a tail pipe sniffer?
no tail pipe sniffer... but he said i should see low 11s on the gauge when on 3rd from 3k rpms going up. and right now it shows low 12s
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ok, so i rewired my grounds to the bolt right behind the fuse box.
i extended the ground on the gauge, and instead of tapping into the System Ground (LC1 white wire), i made the extension long enough to reach the bolt where the rest are connected. i soldered all three wires to a lug as per Innovates instructions (white and blue LC1, and Black DB gauge). for the power i left the LC-1 connected to teh Cruise Control fuse and the DB gauge i extended to reach its own power fuse...
now im getting better readings, instead of getting ~12.3 (on 3rd gear at 3k going up) i am getting 11.8~11.5 ... i didnt drive the car at all on sunday, so i recallibrated it this morning, but with the sensor still on the TestPipe. ill recalibrate it again off the tp, but i dont expect to see a difference.
i will try to eliminate the extensions i made to the power and ground, and make them a 1 clean wire each, im sure by eliminating some soldered tips it will give me a better/clean reading (and hopefully more accurate lol).
Rudy
i extended the ground on the gauge, and instead of tapping into the System Ground (LC1 white wire), i made the extension long enough to reach the bolt where the rest are connected. i soldered all three wires to a lug as per Innovates instructions (white and blue LC1, and Black DB gauge). for the power i left the LC-1 connected to teh Cruise Control fuse and the DB gauge i extended to reach its own power fuse...
now im getting better readings, instead of getting ~12.3 (on 3rd gear at 3k going up) i am getting 11.8~11.5 ... i didnt drive the car at all on sunday, so i recallibrated it this morning, but with the sensor still on the TestPipe. ill recalibrate it again off the tp, but i dont expect to see a difference.
i will try to eliminate the extensions i made to the power and ground, and make them a 1 clean wire each, im sure by eliminating some soldered tips it will give me a better/clean reading (and hopefully more accurate lol).
Rudy
Last edited by Slick-IX; Apr 7, 2008 at 06:00 AM.
LOL OK so whoever tuned your car didnt use a wideband correct? Was it atleast tuned with voltage? He is assuming that will be XX a/f from previous cars he tuned with widebands? Yes you can get close without a wideband but i dont recommend doing it. Every car is different so if that fuel map was 11.3 on that car doesnt mean your car will be 11.3 with that same map. Especially if your tuning a car without a wideband better be on the rich side than the lean side. I am going with the tune rather than the gauge/wideband on this one
Last edited by kreionic; Apr 7, 2008 at 01:27 PM.
^ good point...i thought you were tuned with a wb. So it was just a flash...you might want to log and see if you're knocking...the tune might be the issue. I had this thought in the back of my head but was like...nah...
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LOL OK so whoever tuned your car didnt use a wideband correct? Was it atleast tuned with voltage? He is assuming that will be XX a/f from previous cars he tuned with widebands? Yes you can get close without a wideband but i dont recommend doing it. Every car is different so if that fuel map was 11.3 on that car doesnt mean your car will be 11.3 with that same map. Especially if your tuning a car without a wideband better be on the rich side than the lean side. I am going with the tune rather than the gauge/wideband on this one
i just want to get it as close as low 11s as possible, but my tunr should be checking it out for me aswell just to be on the safe side.-i thought low 11 was a big range... 11.1-11.5, now if he says low 11s and im getting low 12s readings there might be something wrong
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Its a quick fix log the car and send them to your tuner since you have a logging wideband and let him fix it
Last edited by kreionic; Apr 7, 2008 at 02:49 PM.
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Its not a recommended thing to tune a car with no wideband outputs(wideband 02 in the car, or dyno wideband). You can us narrowband voltage to get close but again not recommended.
I cant tell you for sure that your wideband is on point but usually when the innovate products are off they are way lean or way rich like jumping from 7-20.9 a/f If you did the calibrations correctly it should be on point unless its defective unit. If its defective you will not be seeing it off by only .7-1.0
Its not a big problem though since the lc1 logs./ Just do some 3rd gear pulls 2500 to redline and send them to your tuner he/she should do what needs to be done
I cant tell you for sure that your wideband is on point but usually when the innovate products are off they are way lean or way rich like jumping from 7-20.9 a/f If you did the calibrations correctly it should be on point unless its defective unit. If its defective you will not be seeing it off by only .7-1.0
Its not a big problem though since the lc1 logs./ Just do some 3rd gear pulls 2500 to redline and send them to your tuner he/she should do what needs to be done
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
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From: Ft Lauderdale, FL
Its not a recommended thing to tune a car with no wideband outputs(wideband 02 in the car, or dyno wideband). You can us narrowband voltage to get close but again not recommended.
I cant tell you for sure that your wideband is on point but usually when the innovate products are off they are way lean or way rich like jumping from 7-20.9 a/f If you did the calibrations correctly it should be on point unless its defective unit. If its defective you will not be seeing it off by only .7-1.0
Its not a big problem though since the lc1 logs./ Just do some 3rd gear pulls 2500 to redline and send them to your tuner he/she should do what needs to be done
I cant tell you for sure that your wideband is on point but usually when the innovate products are off they are way lean or way rich like jumping from 7-20.9 a/f If you did the calibrations correctly it should be on point unless its defective unit. If its defective you will not be seeing it off by only .7-1.0
Its not a big problem though since the lc1 logs./ Just do some 3rd gear pulls 2500 to redline and send them to your tuner he/she should do what needs to be done
...did you even talk to Tamer? He's a bad *** tuner. But rule of thumb. Not all evo's are the same..and your car may not be knocking at 12.0 at one point ..even thought the a/f is off....also you're probably hitting different load cells. Many variables.
Tamer will get you straight...
Tamer will get you straight...


