I've have recently completed an engine swap from a 6 to a 5 motor. I have a Powerfc that came with the 5 motor. I went to go start it and I was only running on two cylinders. Pin 10 is only supposed to read .2v-.4v with the ignition on. Currently it's reading 6v from pin 10 (cylinders 2-3). Pin 23 (cylinders 1-4) is reading .2v which is correct. I don't want to fry the coils so I'm trying to avoid any other issues. There's is only one post out there about this problem and I'm trying to get more insight on how to fix this. If anyone out there has any kind of answer, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Sorry, I didn't read any of my PM's til today. I replied to your question about what I did in my thread that I started a year ago. You asked for a lil more clarification to what I did when I had this problem. It's been a long time since I did this but I'll try to recap what I did as best as I can.

I was only getting spark from one of the 2 coil packs. I traced it back to the ECU. There are 2 pins that provide the spark pulse to each of the coil packs. Since I didn't have an oscilloscope available i just measured the static DC voltage between the 2 pins that provide the pulses... one of the two was different, which one can only assume that they should be exactly the same since they both control the same coil packs.

I made the measurements by soldering a pigtail wires to the the 2 output pins, then use my Fluke multimeter for readings. This way I can take measurements while the ECU is plugged in and while the engine is running on 2 cylinders. With the engine OFF, but key ON i followed (probed with a digital multi-meter) the copper traces on the ECU board back, and I removed each component one at a time from the bad output circuit until i was able to get matching voltage and resistance to the good circuit. I only had to remove 2 components to accomplish this. They were a switching transistor and what appeared to be a resistor pack ( it was hard to tell exactly because the numbers on the parts were so tiny and nearly impossible to read).
I happened to have a spare ECU that didn't work at all on this car ( probably due to immobilizer) so I grabbed the two components off the spare and swapped them in.

The car fired up immediately and purred like a kitten.

I can provide more details if needed. I didn't see any response to my thread so I figured no one on EvoM cared to troubleshoot component-level electronics.... other than just swapping in an AEM ECU or buying a new ECU and having it reprogrammed. This car was already at the local Mitsu dealer for 2 weeks and they gave it back with $700 diagnostic bill, and problem STILL unsolved so i picked it up from the owner and fixed it in 1 day of ownership.

Hope this helps.