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Damn man, thanks! That saves me a ton of searching time. I get side tracked reading on these places, I built my X and took a two year break. So do the 8/9's have a Rax pack like the X that can be pasted into the XML?
On top of the 8 my son just bought an X, so I have been working issues on that car as well. Who ever tuned that didn't know what the heck they were doing the high oct fuel maps at set in ascending scale with RPM. So at 100 load at 3K rpm its 12.5 then at 3.5K its 12.6.... not sure on their logic...
The 8's and 9's do have MUT table patches and various other patches available, most of the good stuff is already built into V7 so you don't have to spend a whole lot of time diving down that rabbit hole.
yes you need both op2 and reflash connector ie jack plug in op2 to white connector beside obd socket
Thanks bud, ordered and on the way. Amazing how different this car is over the X. I'm looking forward to interacting with everyone. I appreciate the answers.
How common would it be to have a boost controller that isn’t working right? I just checked all the lines and it’s hooked up correctly. I have another controller on the X I could swap out to check, but I wouldn’t think they would be a high failure part.
you can bypass the boost controller and hook the compressor housing directly up to the wastegate actuator, in this configuration the turbo should only be able to boost to wastegate spring pressure. If that works then its the boost controller, or the tune controlling it, if it does not then your wastegate actuator is faulty.
you can bypass the boost controller and hook the compressor housing directly up to the wastegate actuator, in this configuration the turbo should only be able to boost to wastegate spring pressure. If that works then its the boost controller, or the tune controlling it, if it does not then your wastegate actuator is faulty.
So your saying disconnect the vacuum lines from boost controller, and just run one line to the compressor and wastegate? I'm not sure what the FP Greens spring pressure is. If the actuator is faulty it could boost to unsafe levels. I guess the ECU is going to cut anyway.
I have the tactrix connector arriving Thursday, if it's tune related I'll check that out then. Seems like it would be the controller though. The turbo spools using just the throttle to control boost. I can run it up smooth and get to higher RPM's, maybe 5500RPM. But if I give it good amount of gas it cuts out around 4K RPMs I'm not going to continue to push it at this time but it seems to be tied directly to throttle meaning the exhaust being used to spool it is the only variable at this point.
Last edited by Smoknzx3; Feb 14, 2018 at 11:06 AM.
So your saying disconnect the vacuum lines from boost controller, and just run one line to the compressor and wastegate?
Yes, and it should get pretty slow, if nothing changes then your WG actuator is probably faulty. If you have access to a compressor you can rig something up to test the actuator directly without having to do the bypass and drive around. If you don't mind waiting though you can just try adjusting your tune and see if it responds to that. Depends on how much work you wanna do.
Yes, and it should get pretty slow, if nothing changes then your WG actuator is probably faulty. If you have access to a compressor you can rig something up to test the actuator directly without having to do the bypass and drive around. If you don't mind waiting though you can just try adjusting your tune and see if it responds to that. Depends on how much work you wanna do.
Yeah, I do want to eliminate the controller, and maybe the actuator, since they are a mechanical issues that can't be resolved with tuning. After that, then I can definitely wait.
Ok, this is a little odd, but after resetting the ecu and reconnecting the electoral plug for the boost controller it’s a lot better. It will run properly for first and second gear but start to cut out in third gear a bit and fourth it still hesitates badly.
It's really easy to sort out without even driving the car (or even starting the engine) and risk breaking something, just use an air compressor as a source of compressed air.
It's really easy to sort out without even driving the car (or even starting the engine) and risk breaking something, just use an air compressor as a source of compressed air.
I’m sure it probably is, but it’s something I’m not familiar with. I have a compressor, but at this point I think the electrical clip on the boost controller was loose. Stands to reason that the only things I changed were reinserting the clip, which does not actually snap into place, and I pulled the negative battery terminal. If it the battery was the issue, when I ran a couple pulls it should have resorted to the original way it ran. Instead, it runs a lot better. Since I understand the concept of what your saying with the compressor but don’t know the details, if you would share that with me I’ll use that info as well. I appreciate your help for sure. I get the tactrix cable adapter today, I’ll hook it up and try to make sense of what it’s doing. There could be a load issue at higher rpms. I also have the NGK iridium plugs arriving today. That might smooth some of this out.
Just as an update. I got the cable and was able to pull the tune off the car. Now, I just need to trace back the wires to the wide band so I can see how they have it logging AFR’s. I also replaced the plugs,gapped them at 0.022 to start with. The original ones were gapped at 0.035. It unfortunately, didn’t fix the issues, it does run a lot smoother on start up now. Also have the inner and outer tie rod ends to replace. They’re pretty bad. I’ll pribably need some help with the logs when I get them. My X is only slightly modded, not like this car.
Just as an update. I haven't had time to mess with the car so it has been driven very little and today I took it to work (2 miles) and out of no where it through the crank through the block. Not sure why but I towed it back to the house and am disgusted with the car at this point.
Just as an update. I haven't had time to mess with the car so it has been driven very little and today I took it to work (2 miles) and out of no where it through the crank through the block. Not sure why but I towed it back to the house and am disgusted with the car at this point.
Oh no!!
How do you know that's a crank (I can't tell by your photo)?
Feb 12, 2018, 03:09 PM
