Smoknzx3

Smoknzx3

Biggiesacks

you could be hitting a load limit, you could be missfiring the plugs, pretty hard to even speculate without more information. Sounds kind of like your hitting the load limit in your tune though.

Smoknzx3

Yeah that was similar to what I was thinking. Additionally, I don't think the boost is matched up, or scaled to the Load and RPM's. I think the plugs are something I want to swap out, just to eliminate them as an issue. I'll have to search around to find the right ones.

I'm trying to figure out how to better explain it. Regardless of speed, gear or load in general if I hit the gas the boost gauge will ramp up to the max setting 26.5 psi and then dump boost in small dumps, not a solid dump. Pretty much the same it would cut for safety. I can steady accelerate and get a little further up the RPM range before it cuts out. But the bottom line, on average I only get to around 4-5K RPMs before it cuts out.

Biggiesacks

Oh is your boost controller like not working? Because if your over boosting then you are for sure hitting a safety. Try turning the boost down and make sure it works.

Smoknzx3

I am going to attempt that next. As soon as I can get ECU Flash to read my ROM. lol Like I said I have a little experience with the X, just not with this car. I might have to use ECU unlocker I'm thinking.
I have literally been reading for two days on this stuff. And there really isn't any good info on getting the ECU flash to read the ROM. Tons of posts but not a lot of info.

Smoknzx3

The motor was actually just out of the car, I am going to have to go back and check the vacuum lines for the boost controller. I wonder if something is off? Your right though, if the boost controller wasn't working right the turbo would spool and hit max boost. It wouldn't care what the ECU was doing or the RPM's. Correct?

Biggiesacks

Yah thats right, if the boost control isn't working and depending on your setup, the turbo could just spin up until either it can't spin any more or the ecu cuts fuel. If your still using the factory boost control hardware then the lines are actually suppose to be in a "T" configuration with restrictor pills inside. Where the Boost controller is at the bottom of the T and bleeds off pressure to keep the wastegate closed.

Smoknzx3

It's not the stock boost controller. I'll have to look, I want to say it's a Grimmspeed. Still has vacuum lines though, not the crazy "T" one. I don't understand how it could just stop working, unless the vacuum lines are wrong.... That's one more thing to look up. There isn't anything other than the block and pistons, and crank which are stock. The bent rod was replaced with a set of Eagle rods, the head has been redone, new springs ect., cams, ported intake manni, FP green, and bigger injectors. It looks like it was pretty conservative with the 26.5 psi for the modes. The motor looked really good when it was apart, that's why I bought it. The guy I bought it from thought this was a normal tune, I'm guessing it's the cause of the rod bend. LOL

Biggiesacks

There could be alot of reasons for it to stop working. I had a wastegate actuator go bad on me and that led to overboost. There are other things too that could also be causing a problem. I would stay off it until you know the boost is in check. There are a few good threads on how to tune a 3-port bcs. You should also really look into getting a Tephramod v7 ROM if it doesn't already have one. Has the car been tuned since the engine rebuild? If not you should probably just do a from scratch tune, since you know what ever was running before might have had something to do with the engine failure. That's what I would do anyway with a new to me car with a fresh build.

Smoknzx3

I defiantly do not push it at this point at all. I don't think it has any Tephra versions on it. The car was tuned by AMS in Chicago IL, they are out of business at this location now. I don't have the version 7, shoot I don't have anything for the 8, I have X files... LOL I was surfing around trying to find the Tephra file for the car, no luck yet. A couple years ago Tephra offered the stuff free to single tuners like me who didn't tune other peoples cars. The links to the files now are really old and it's hard to figure out what ECU's the versions work for... If I can find a file, at this point I can't even pull the ROM. I remember now how much work this was on the computer for the X when I was tuning it.

Biggiesacks

The CT9A isnt as difficult in the ROM department as the X. There are basically two different options you have as far as ROMs for the 8, the most current OEM USDM Rom for the 8 was 94170015 and the EDM rom is 96530006. You can use either, but they are a little different. Now for each of those there are a few Tephramod options which are all free. You can find the Roms and all the info you will need here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...hramod-v7.html

direct download here:

http://www.tephra.it/v7/

Smoknzx3

Damn man, thanks! That saves me a ton of searching time. I get side tracked reading on these places, I built my X and took a two year break. So do the 8/9's have a Rax pack like the X that can be pasted into the XML?

On top of the 8 my son just bought an X, so I have been working issues on that car as well. Who ever tuned that didn't know what the heck they were doing the high oct fuel maps at set in ascending scale with RPM. So at 100 load at 3K rpm its 12.5 then at 3.5K its 12.6.... not sure on their logic...

Smoknzx3

One more question, will my 2.0 Tatrixs work with the 8 ECU or do I need the reflash connector? I'm reading mixed things in the threads. I'm half way through the "Can't flash or read the ROM from your ECU - Start Here!" Thread.

todd6027

iTrader: (10)

yes you need both op2 and reflash connector ie jack plug in op2 to white connector beside obd socket