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Stock ECU to Elite 1500

Old Apr 25, 2019, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Fox_IX
May want an Elite 2500 if you want to be future-proof and you want more outputs, as you can reassign the unused ignition outputs to other things. With that said the same can be achieved with a $400 IO Expander unit. I'd wager 99% of Evo owners would be happy with the 1500.
future proof? Like if you moved to another platform?
Old Apr 25, 2019, 11:42 PM
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Haha, I stand corrected. I came from the RB26 side and compared elite 2000 and 2500 before hence the wrong impression about 1500.

Yes then between 1500 and 2500 more cylinder stuff like dual fuel rail you can use. Also like others said, if you move to another platform ie. rb26/2jz you can still use it....
Old Apr 26, 2019, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
future proof? Like if you moved to another platform?
Exactly. I love that I've been able to take my Elite and literally plug it into any vehicle I own with just a patch harness.
Now if I had a 2500 more of them would run with it
Old Jun 25, 2019, 05:05 PM
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After having driven the car with the elite now for over a month.. i was stupid not to do it sooner.

EVERYTHING is better...

Fuel mileage is up... car is smoother... starts and flex fuel works great...
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Old Feb 19, 2021, 05:11 AM
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Wow i can believe i didn't see this before i got the stock ecu flex fuel tune. I hate the way the car drives now. Car has all the symptoms mentioned in posts above.
Old Feb 20, 2021, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by infam0usndn2nv
Wow i can believe i didn't see this before i got the stock ecu flex fuel tune. I hate the way the car drives now. Car has all the symptoms mentioned in posts above.
I ran the Haltech Platinum Pro PnP on the 2L for years and lover it, but got tired of the yearly dance to switch back to the stock ECU for inspection. I had too many things being controlled by the Haltech that I had to change back every year, which took me a full day. I finally just pulled the Haltech and put it in the box and have been running the stock ECU with 3D VE using Tephra mods. I'm also tired of the quirkiness of the stock ECU so I think I'm gonna swap back to the Haltech, but make it so all i have to do is plug in the ECU and it's ready for inspection. Glad I stumbled across this post because I'm now motivated.
Old Feb 20, 2021, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by infam0usndn2nv
Wow i can believe i didn't see this before i got the stock ecu flex fuel tune. I hate the way the car drives now. Car has all the symptoms mentioned in posts above.
Does the car run worse on a flex tune on stock ECU than on a single fuel tune? I'm not sure why it would? I'm planning to convert my stock ECU to flex fuel in the Spring and am not expecting to lose any drivability over what I have now. Should I be worried? I'm running tephra v7 SD.
Old Feb 21, 2021, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
Does the car run worse on a flex tune on stock ECU than on a single fuel tune? I'm not sure why it would? I'm planning to convert my stock ECU to flex fuel in the Spring and am not expecting to lose any drivability over what I have now. Should I be worried? I'm running tephra v7 SD.
So i am running the fitronic flex fuel system. Does the car make good power? Yes it does no doubt about it. The things mentioned above by the other person about car stalling, rpm issues etc are also true, atleast with my car. I am in ny and now in the cold weather i have to crank the car and hit the throttle to get it started and hold it for a few seconds till the idle stablizes (even on 93 oct). I am very close to pulling the trigger on a haltech elite 1500 and keeping my stock ecu for inspection purposes.
Old Feb 21, 2021, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
I ran the Haltech Platinum Pro PnP on the 2L for years and lover it, but got tired of the yearly dance to switch back to the stock ECU for inspection. I had too many things being controlled by the Haltech that I had to change back every year, which took me a full day. I finally just pulled the Haltech and put it in the box and have been running the stock ECU with 3D VE using Tephra mods. I'm also tired of the quirkiness of the stock ECU so I think I'm gonna swap back to the Haltech, but make it so all i have to do is plug in the ECU and it's ready for inspection. Glad I stumbled across this post because I'm now motivated.
How are the start ups on haltech?? I use to have a aem ems 1 and the car took forever to start up, so i ended up going back to stock ecu.
Old Feb 21, 2021, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
I purchased it from Buschur Racing - Email Nick for it if you are interested. As for emissions, the tune that Tom put on my car will suffice for inspections. I'll just plug the stock ecu in on the floor and cover it with a towel... they want to inspect my car, not clean it for me. ;-) As for the reason for the swap - His tune on the 93, with 1000cc injectors was really good. I ran it for 4-5 years. As for this build, on the e85, it was just not up to my standards, plus I wanted flex fuel capabilities, and theres no sense in spending $500+ towards giving the stock ecu a flex fuel patch, when I can put that money towards a real ECU. Also, I am not a fan of the fuel temp sensor that he likes to use for AIT, and the quarks that come along with it - simply put, its a band-aid, and the other part throttle jitters/low end bucking/stalling just wasn't for me. This will eliminate all of that, and allow me to take full control of the car.



There is literally zero reason to get the 2500 over the 1500. Spoke with a tech at Haltech, and unless you have a desire to waste money .. there is zero reason. The only reason shops might push the 2500, is because they get a better price on them as the 2500 can run 4-8cyl, so they can use them in evos, to gtrs, to any V8. There is literally zero other gain beyond injector/ignition control over over 4 cylinders.

Those things mentioned above are the exact problems i am having.
Old Feb 21, 2021, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by infam0usndn2nv
How are the start ups on haltech?? I use to have a aem ems 1 and the car took forever to start up, so i ended up going back to stock ecu.
There are no issues with startup so if you were having issues it was because of the tune, which was most likely fuel and IAC related. The best approach when converting over to standalone is to get the timing, VE, and IAC tables tuned based on when the car is at operating temperature. This is achieved by starting the car with the stock ECU and getting it warmed up and then disconnecting the stock ECU and connecting the AEM or Haltech. There is no need to physically remove the stock ECU so simply have the AEM or Haltech sitting on the floor while you get the tune squared away is fine assuming they are PnP. This also allows you to just hook back up the stock ECU in 2 minutes so you can continue to drive the car until you are to the point where the car is reasonably tuned.

You will not be able to properly tune the cold start enrichment until you have the VE table finalized so don't waste your time touching cold start prior to this step. Once you have the VE table finalized you can then attempt to tune the cold start, which will be a combination of IAC and fuel enrichment as a function of coolant temps. Of course you also need to tune the instantaneous startup enrichments, but you can usually do that after you get the coolant based tables (IAC and fuel) tuned. Understand that even a professional tuner would need to spend a tremendous amount of time to get a standalone reasonably tuned even if you have a decent base map. I've been tuning for 23 years and even though I have a base map from my 2L, I will probably spend at least 30hrs tuning the car for the new 2.15L. I already have 4 hours since yesterday converting my stock ECU maps over to the Haltech software.

I actually plugged in the Haltech yesterday with the 2L tune that used PTE 1000cc to my current 2.15L using FIC 1650's and the car fired right up, but was definitely not running smooth.
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Old Feb 22, 2021, 03:14 AM
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Thanks for the detailed explanation. Much appreciated.
Old Feb 22, 2021, 01:32 PM
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If you get a PnP standalone what can you anticipate costs to be for install/tune? Assume shop w/ in-house dyno
Old Feb 22, 2021, 02:57 PM
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The tuners around me charge $1000 for a standalone ECU tune. My Haltech PnP Elite 1500 Setup for Evo 8 was around $1800.
Old Feb 22, 2021, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by TimInselman
The tuners around me charge $1000 for a standalone ECU tune. My Haltech PnP Elite 1500 Setup for Evo 8 was around $1800.
Ouch, I paid the first 3 times 500 a crack and still wasnt happy. I am paying for this next tune 800 for flex fuel tune.

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