Wondering what others did to wire there aux connector and extra sensors on the elite?

I have fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, ethanol content, and 12 position trim pot.

Im planning on using my 4bar map sensor for boost pressure data.

seems I’m out of inputs, the aux only has one spare analog input.

the pnp harness has an analog input wired for an intercooler sprayer that I don’t have so I plan on reassigning that, then I think I can remove the analog input for the clutch switch and reassign that (which I’m assuming I can keep launch control by just basing it off vehicle speed), and eliminate the narrowband O2 (I have a can wb controller)

that sets me up as

aux connector
Spare analog input- fuel pressure
spare synchronized pulse input- ethanol

main connectors
clutch- mode switch
intercooler sprayer- oil pressure
o2- oil temp

im surprised at the lack of inputs on the elite, I know there is an I/O expander that gets you an additional 4 analog inputs but that’s another $400 on this setup.

what did you guys do?

 

Have you use the SPI inputs and the DPO and DBW if your not using it. There you go theres some extra ports for you. There are more then you think.

AVI 2,17,16,9,12 on the 26 pin connector should be your fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, intercooler sprayer
SPI should be your flex fuel sensor, clutch switch
DPO should be boost controller
Map should be pin 15 on the 34 pin connector, Iat should be 9
12 pos knob should connect to the 3 pin aux off the patch harness I believe that should go to an AVI port you just select it and tell it what to do.

That should be it

 

thanks for the reply, I'm not sure I follow though,

looking at the pinout for the inputs for the 2500, it has the following Assigned / SPARE

34 Pin Connector A
PIN 16 // AVI 2 - Power Steering Switch
PIN 17 // AVI 3 - Clutch Switch
PIN 2 // AVI 4 - SPARE
PIN 15 // AVI 9 - MAP Sensor
PIN 14 // AVI 10 -TPS Sensor

26 Pin Connector B
PIN 13 // AVI 1 - A/C Switch
PIN 20 // AVI 5 - Intercooler Spray Manual Switch
PIN 12 // AVI 6 - Narrowband 02 Sensor
PIN 3 // AVI 7 - IAT Sensor
PIN 4 // AVI 8 - Coolant Temp Sensor
PIN 8 // SPI 1 - SPARE
PIN 9 // SPI 2 - Mass Airflow Sensor
PIN 10 // SPI 3 -Vehicle Speed Sensor
PIN 7 // SPI 4 - MIVEC Cam Position Sensor

I still only see two true free inputs (AVI 4 and SPI 1) which means I still need to reassign 3 more. Although from this exercise, I see that I can reassign SPI 2 (mass airflow) and be able to conserve my clutch switch, which is great!

So hopefully I can set mine up as follows;

AVI 4- Fuel Pressure
AVI 5- Oil Pressure
AVI 6- 12 Position Trim Pot
SPI 1- Ethanol Content Sensor
SPI 2- Oil Temperature

I found a Haltech Knowledge Article on using SPI's for analog temp sensors, just needs some math done to account for the different pullup resistors in the sensor calibration.

I see you have the 1500, I'm assuming that when wiring into the aux connector we simply need to pin the wire into the back of the 16 pin connector? I think that's correct, it just seems like the wires are going into the wrong side of jumper junction.

 

Ok I will try my best to answer all of this for you. I am by no far an expert but I will do my best to help lol. Ok there are things I see that will help you. For 1 get rid of your narrow band o2. Use your wideband to control all of your o2 functions. That will free up one spot.

My car isn't far sensor wise then what your currently running. But to answer a later question first if your using your 3 pin aux should be connected to your patch harness. It comes off one of the spots and is tied in to the harness already. This 3 pin connector is for an aux port which would be your 12 position input. I will do my best to try to help you out with what I have currently on my car. I know my tuner has changed a few things but I have added some stuff and I don't have it wired yet. My car is an 8 so I do not have the mivec cam position sensor so cant really give you any info on that but i would say yes pin 7 spi 4 should be fine. So I will give you my IO report on how my car is currently wired. Not that it matters but I also run the NSP software. When you go to your tuners allow them to upgrade it so much easier and way more cool stuff that comes with it. One more thing I will suggest would be to get the can wideband setup. Yeah its 300 bucks or whatever but that will free up another input being it uses can instead of an input.

I don't have what pins on my report but I do have what they are and they are as follows

AVI 1 - Rolling anti lag
AVI 2 - Oil pressure sensor
AVI 3 - 12 position rotary module
AVI 4 - Fuel pressure sensor
AVI 7 - Iat
AVI 8 - Coolant temp sensor
AVI 9 - Map sensor
AVI 10- TPS

DPO 1 - Fuel pump relay output
DPO 2 - Thermo fan 1 ( my fan stays on all the time for whatever reason and something we are trying to fix)
DPO 3 - Boost control solenoid
DPO 4 - Aux fuel pump ( Bullet Proof racing double pumper with box)

SPI 1 - Flex fuel sensor
SPI 3 - Vehicle speed sensor
SPI 4 - AC request

Knock 1 - Knock sensor

Injectors Obvious how those are wired

I run IGN-1A coils so I use IGN 1-4

Stepper motor stuff 1-4
DBW 1 p2 - AC output This will change being I am drive by wire now

Then there are all the 1500 reference stuff and grounds and other misc things

With all that I still have things I can clean up which will give me inputs. With that said stuff left over

Inputs left
AVI 5
AVI 6
SPI 2
Home ( not sure what that does)

Outputs
DPO 5
DBW p1

That controls my whole car. Notice I do not use power steering switch, clutch switch (and yes I still have launch control), narrowband, mas ( Idk if your speed density or not if you are no need to run mas but if not go to speed density) and wideband. I noticed I do not run a tps as well. If you setup like mine your freeing up 4 more inputs on the car. This will allow you to use your Intercooler spray, your mivec and give you room to add things. Sorry my first post was kinda confusing my apologies, but hopefully this will give you an idea on how I am setup and how things are assigned. Once your tuner looks at the IO report he can always change things on the way he wants it to be as well. I now some tuners are kinda picky about how they assign things and thats ok being its just a simple unpin and pin to where they want it.

 

Thanks for the help,

I agree that I can eliminate the narrowband, and I do have the Haltech Can WB so i don't need to mess with using up an input on that. Question about your sensors, I see you aren't using a PS switch. Do you run into any issues when turning the wheel at idle with the car dipping in RPM's or stalling? usually the PS switch would help let the ecu to increase the duty on the IACV to account for the extra load, but ive never tried to run without it. Probably worse with the larger cams. I see you are running kelford 288's which are larger then the S2's I'm running, but I've been toying around with going to S3's.

the car is speed density, so the maf signal can be nuked, another input available

Im curious about you not running a TPS? in your post you have it slated to AVI 10 but you said you dont run it? I'd be interested in how it would work considering tip-in enrichment is set off the TPS derivative value (at least on stock and AEM units).

I think I've got a good handle on what I need to wire now, thanks for your help. If it doesn't work I'll just blame the tuner (who is also me).

 

No I don't run the PS switch and I double checked and no the tps is not assigned either. Your question about the car stalling while turning the wheel and rpm drop no they really don't do either. Once I push the clutch in and say turn the corner or whatever if I don't put it into a gear it will drop right to idle rpm and then go back to whatever rpm I put the car into gear in. I mean Idk I have had a few guys tune the car since it was built and no one has ever corrected this. The guy tuning my car now, he may add whatever but I highly doubt that being I went to dbw. I know he wants to add a speed sensor for the turbo and a back pressure sensor for the exhaust temporary to make sure the turbo is happy. I know he wants to add thermocouple stuff to my exhaust manifold and have control of all the cylinders as well to make sure the car is 100% efficient. Mind you that this car made a hell of alot more power with my s372 and I don't wanna change much dropping down to a 6466 but I think this gives me room to grow if I wanted to go back up to a 6870 if I don't like the power it makes. And no problem about the help I am glad I had at least something helpful lol.

 

ah yea, the DBW probably helps a lot with keeping the car happy at idle. I've seen good things about it. once I get past my emissions inspection requirement and don't need to be able to swap the stock ecu back in, a DBW throttle is high on the mod list.

 

Yeah the DBW is new to my car this year. I was having an issue with my isc's kept going bad and being there like 450 bucks a crack I just got tired of it and said I'll go DBW and fix that. We looked at all the wires and what nots and couldn't find anything wrong with the wiring or anything to make the sensors go bad so idk. Thing I am looking forward to is it will help being I can use it for traction control. I am currently looking into a 4" dp, something I should have done with my other turbo, but just never did it. I want to go full 4 inch exhaust and try to keep backpressure in order. I also looked into doing 4 thermocouplers to put in my runners in the exhaust, that way I can have each cylinder tuned perfectly but that is kinda expensive and really only use it once. I wanna do 304 ss off the turbo then where my test pipe would go through the back of the car aluminum. Idk if it will happen but we shall see.