Looks like I am running around 91% duty at WOT to redline (4th gear pull). 1.5 bar.

 

I don't understand why my injectors are maxing out at 100%, at 1.4x bar, about 21psi. Any suggestions?? I have a D-jetro, and I control boost with a greddy profec-b spec-II.

Thanks for your help.

 

By the way, my knock reading never goes over 6.

 

It sounds like your dumping more fuel to help supress knock. It seems that this is the "art" of tuning and where the experts make their money. I've frequently boasted that I can make huge power on an EVO with my tuning skills, or lack there of. The problem is the motor won't last 1000 miles. Different combinations of fuel, boost and timing can produce similar hp numbers, but not all will be safe. It sounds like your tune is very safe, but I'm no expert. Maybe someone with more experience can outline some basic turbo tuning philosophies.

 

My Monitor shows:
boost -1.3
INJ DUTY -93=97%(IT DEPENDS)
IGN DUTY -40 deg
AIR TEMP - 45
KNOCK- 7 - 13(MAX)

WHAT CAN YOU SAY ABOUT MY SETTINGS?
MAY BE SOME ADVICES?

 

BY THE WAY, THE MORE BOOST I SET THE WORST GOES CAR

WHEN I SET BOOST 1.5, CAR RUNS LIKE SOMEONE HOLDS IT
WHEN I SET 1.3 ,CAR RUNS A LOT FASTER!
wHAT CAN IT BE?

 

Probably cause it's pulling timing because of knock.

 

I don't think the Power FC does that.

 

Darn......i'm thinking I should have bought the EMS instead. I have a D Jetro FC sitting in my garage ready to go in. XS Engineering here in CA absolutely loves the FC over the EMS because they say the EMS is still buggy. They swear they can make just as much power with it. We'll see.

The EMS will pull timing if it senses knock if the settings are right.

The problem is that there's absolutely no market for a used Power FC. I've seen some crazy deals out there that no one is even considering (hence all the "bump"s in the post).

I have a partial sponsorship for my power FC but my sponsor doesnt care if i sell it and go for the EMS. I got it for like $650 as long as I put his decal on my window and help design his website. I think i'll just give it a try anyways.....the sparco evo and TODA car are making good power on the unit.

 

I am really happy with my Power-FC D-jetro. I am still waiting for the datalogit file to arrive by email, to start my tuning. But I know it might be a hard learning curve, since I will be doing all my tuning myself. Anyway that is why I chose the FC. It seemed to me the best and easyest option tu tune myself. Also its base map is safe enough that I have been driving my car with it with no problems. Anyway, Coolguy949, goodluck. Let me know how it works out. Wish I could take my car to XS and have the experts tune it.

Take care,
Julian

 

BY THE WAY, THE MORE BOOST I SET THE WORST GOES CAR

WHEN I SET BOOST 1.5, CAR RUNS LIKE SOMEONE HOLDS IT
WHEN I SET 1.3 ,CAR RUNS A LOT FASTER!
wHAT CAN IT BE?

-------

Just the position you work on the map have a best setting at 1.3 than 1.5 ...
If you have genuine PFC mapping inside it's normal!:
very bad maps inside but it "works" with 1.3 (danger for engine anyway)
Very rich but too much IGN advance at 1.5 so of course it don't work!
Your problem guy is that you don't have correct mapping inside!
When you read 93-97% inj duty ... it is what is programmed inside!!! put 90% max in the INJ map and you will never exceed 90%!!! It don't mean your are safe!!! What is important is AIR/FUEL RATIO.
A little group buy for a PLM MoTeC could be a good idea!!! (joking because of the price )

For tuning "yourself" a PFC it would be better to learn about thermodynamic science and to read books about Ignition tuning, because nobody on earth can make a reliable IGN timing map without softwares and thermodynamic knowledge!

 

To answer to coolguy949, to set IGN timing regarding to knock is of course one of the function in AMS but is the worst way to set ign ...

For example, EVO 6 + stroker kit JUN + TD06-25G:
600ps at 2.0bar with at 6000rpm a 17° timing give 1580bar maximum chamber pressure.
609ps at 2.0bar with at 6000rpm a 21° timing give 2200bar maximum chamber pressure

case one is powerful and reliable
case two is nearly idem but no reliable
Knock is going to ask 24-25 timing mean +4000bar in chambers.

case 1: perfect study of thermodynamic combination
case 2: people who "like to run 19-21 degrees for powa!" or AMS or 99% of tuners!

 

Wow , i am glad to hear you like it. My confidence in the unit has gone up now. I really like the commander and everything. I didnt want to sell it.

SO the base map is ok to drive around in?

Rob

 

For me its worked great. I did have to change my EBC setup to avoid spikes, since the FC comes setup for a max of 23 psi. I have to wait for my datalogit software to re-scale the maps for more boost. Also I have been calibrating the map sensor voltage because even though boost was steady at 21psi, with a peak of 22.2 the FC would read off the map. I have fixed that already. Anyway, with XS in front of the keyboard you'll have nothing to worry about. Keep us posted.

Julian

 

We only have 91 octane here in Southern CA so i think i'll keep the boost no more than 19 - 20 if i run the base map. I'll make sure to keep and eye on my knock sensor readout. How accurate is that thing anyways? Does it use the stock knock sensor?