Gear Specific Maps ?
LOLzzz... hey, I'll take that utech off your hand anytime any day. It sounds like your a hardcore performance guy, why not go for the AEM EMS? I like the utec because it's easier for the end user to play around with.
Jack, are there ECU tuning books that I can get? It would be sweet if the utech engineer release a book showing the end user how to tune the utech.
Jack, are there ECU tuning books that I can get? It would be sweet if the utech engineer release a book showing the end user how to tune the utech.
Really?!? You want it? You're right, I am a hardcore performance guy and the AEM should have been my first choice. I don't know guys...I guess I'm just spoiled with the engine management systems for the Ford Mustang. Anyway, let me know! Send me a PM and I'll give you my number.
It really depends on what your looking for.. the UTEC (with the newest firmware) does control timing, and fuel, and their both absolute, and will alter timing when knock is detected.. But if you want the ECU to do what its designed to do, it can allow it to pass through.
your decision on engine management really will depend on the level of control you want.. I can only tell you what its capable of. It is capable of controlling timing, and it has its own knock control features, but you do have to map all the timing in those locations.
I really like the AEM, and if that is more to your liking, you'll definitely be happy with it. The advantage of the UTEC is what many people who want a full standalone may consider a disadvantage, and that it does still retain the factory ECU. But don't mistake the UTEC as a piggyback, it does directly control timing if you map it that way. The newest firmware directly controls fuel if you map it that way. The main difference is that the mundane ECU features, such as controlling the A/C compressor or temp fans, are left for the ECU.
The good news is *IF* you control the timing (in this current firmware!) and knock is being controlled by the UTEC, then the fuel maps will be consistent even though the current firmware offsets the MAF signal.
This can be a double edged sword, whether you use the UTEC or AEM, since you are now in control of the timing, and knock control, you have to be careful about how you set the sensitivity of the knock control features since your now at the mercy of how you set the timing.. What everyone tells me, and what I have come to believe is that knock control is not a safety net if the tuning is done poorly, its really intended to compensate for rare occasions when there are problems with gas or climate. I guess thats why its sometimes difficult to get a good tune if the engine is prone to triggering the knock sensor (whether its real ping or valvetrain/drivetrain noise, or even racket from aftermarket pullies)
I know you were mentioning your frustration with the pinging you were hearing and that the factory ECU was giving you a hard time since it was apparently always going to the secondary maps. So before you try to do too much tuning, see if there's anything else you can find that can contribute to it (Low fuel pressure, low pump output, etc..)
If you haven't already done it, you might want to upgrade your fuel pump and see if that helps any.
your decision on engine management really will depend on the level of control you want.. I can only tell you what its capable of. It is capable of controlling timing, and it has its own knock control features, but you do have to map all the timing in those locations.
I really like the AEM, and if that is more to your liking, you'll definitely be happy with it. The advantage of the UTEC is what many people who want a full standalone may consider a disadvantage, and that it does still retain the factory ECU. But don't mistake the UTEC as a piggyback, it does directly control timing if you map it that way. The newest firmware directly controls fuel if you map it that way. The main difference is that the mundane ECU features, such as controlling the A/C compressor or temp fans, are left for the ECU.
The good news is *IF* you control the timing (in this current firmware!) and knock is being controlled by the UTEC, then the fuel maps will be consistent even though the current firmware offsets the MAF signal.
This can be a double edged sword, whether you use the UTEC or AEM, since you are now in control of the timing, and knock control, you have to be careful about how you set the sensitivity of the knock control features since your now at the mercy of how you set the timing.. What everyone tells me, and what I have come to believe is that knock control is not a safety net if the tuning is done poorly, its really intended to compensate for rare occasions when there are problems with gas or climate. I guess thats why its sometimes difficult to get a good tune if the engine is prone to triggering the knock sensor (whether its real ping or valvetrain/drivetrain noise, or even racket from aftermarket pullies)
I know you were mentioning your frustration with the pinging you were hearing and that the factory ECU was giving you a hard time since it was apparently always going to the secondary maps. So before you try to do too much tuning, see if there's anything else you can find that can contribute to it (Low fuel pressure, low pump output, etc..)
If you haven't already done it, you might want to upgrade your fuel pump and see if that helps any.
Last edited by MalibuJack; Aug 11, 2004 at 03:03 PM.
Oh.. and to the other question about a manual on how to tune.. I haven't seen one. It seems like the magical and mythical skill of tuning is a closely guarded secret..
HOWEVER, the key to tuning is understanding the basics.. (www.howstuffworks.com)
Look up in the automotive sections..
1) Timing
2) Camshafts
2) Carburation (Air fuel ratios)
3) Turbocharging and turbochargers
Timing is an important thing to understand, although every car is different, the principles of how timing works is the same.. If you've ever played paintball, or gone target shooting, timing is alot like shooting at the moving target.. you shoot ahead of the target so when it gets in position, you hit it.. Timing is similar, Top Dead Center is your target.. you need to adjust your timing so the spark plug fires early enough so the burning gasses begin expanding just after Top Dead Center it then does the most work (IE the best power).. Too early and you get detonation (the expanding gasses begin to PREVENT the piston from reaching TDC) Too late, and you don't get an efficient combustion and incomplete burn of the gasses when the exhaust valve opens.. Its a balancing act though!! since different throttle positions (from 30% to WOT) may require different timing even at the same RPM (Load Sites)
This is the reason that understanding timing, and exhaust gas temps is important.. also, if you read between the lines, it shows that low EGT's doesn't necessarily mean that you aren't hurting anything (preignition is a different kind of detonation, where hotspots are igniting the mixture before the spark plug can)
This leads to why air fuel ratios are important to understand, since when you add more fuel, your adding more "liquid" that can absorb heat and evaporate therefore cooling the combustion chamber down slightly, this also reduces detonation due to preignition, but will have no affect on detonation due to too much timing, Octane has a direct effect on this also, since Octane controls the RATE of the burning gasses, if you can slow down its rate, you can run more timing, therefore the expanding gasses can do more work against the piston..
Get it? I've kept these concepts fundamentally simple, there's actually a bit more to it than this, but these basics should clarify quite a few things..
Also, understanding how turbochargers and intercoolers function, and how compressing air also generates heat, and more heat means less dense air at the same pressures.. Since the amount of air getting into the engine directly effects power output..
So, what does this mean? It means that learning the basics, and then understanding your tools is more important that using a guide for a specific standalone or piggyback device.. Since fundamentally you are doing the same thing.
What tools do you need?
1) Wideband O2 sensor (TXS Tuner)
2) auxiliary knock sensor and phones (TXS Tuner also) you want to LISTEN for ping!
3) EGT Gauge (or TXS Tuner and EGT probe)
4) Laptop computer and OBD-II scanner
learning about and understanding these tools and what the information means will keep you from blowing up your motor.
HOWEVER, the key to tuning is understanding the basics.. (www.howstuffworks.com)
Look up in the automotive sections..
1) Timing
2) Camshafts
2) Carburation (Air fuel ratios)
3) Turbocharging and turbochargers
Timing is an important thing to understand, although every car is different, the principles of how timing works is the same.. If you've ever played paintball, or gone target shooting, timing is alot like shooting at the moving target.. you shoot ahead of the target so when it gets in position, you hit it.. Timing is similar, Top Dead Center is your target.. you need to adjust your timing so the spark plug fires early enough so the burning gasses begin expanding just after Top Dead Center it then does the most work (IE the best power).. Too early and you get detonation (the expanding gasses begin to PREVENT the piston from reaching TDC) Too late, and you don't get an efficient combustion and incomplete burn of the gasses when the exhaust valve opens.. Its a balancing act though!! since different throttle positions (from 30% to WOT) may require different timing even at the same RPM (Load Sites)
This is the reason that understanding timing, and exhaust gas temps is important.. also, if you read between the lines, it shows that low EGT's doesn't necessarily mean that you aren't hurting anything (preignition is a different kind of detonation, where hotspots are igniting the mixture before the spark plug can)
This leads to why air fuel ratios are important to understand, since when you add more fuel, your adding more "liquid" that can absorb heat and evaporate therefore cooling the combustion chamber down slightly, this also reduces detonation due to preignition, but will have no affect on detonation due to too much timing, Octane has a direct effect on this also, since Octane controls the RATE of the burning gasses, if you can slow down its rate, you can run more timing, therefore the expanding gasses can do more work against the piston..
Get it? I've kept these concepts fundamentally simple, there's actually a bit more to it than this, but these basics should clarify quite a few things..
Also, understanding how turbochargers and intercoolers function, and how compressing air also generates heat, and more heat means less dense air at the same pressures.. Since the amount of air getting into the engine directly effects power output..
So, what does this mean? It means that learning the basics, and then understanding your tools is more important that using a guide for a specific standalone or piggyback device.. Since fundamentally you are doing the same thing.
What tools do you need?
1) Wideband O2 sensor (TXS Tuner)
2) auxiliary knock sensor and phones (TXS Tuner also) you want to LISTEN for ping!
3) EGT Gauge (or TXS Tuner and EGT probe)
4) Laptop computer and OBD-II scanner
learning about and understanding these tools and what the information means will keep you from blowing up your motor.
Last edited by MalibuJack; Aug 11, 2004 at 03:37 PM.
It can log EGT's if your using it standalone..
I'm hoping they release a firmware upgrade for the tuner that appends EGT's onto the UTEC Data log (like the AFRs) then it would be perfect..
but the Tuner has an EGT Probe port on it, but no probe available at the moment, I do think it uses a standard 5v type-K probe though..
And the OBD-II is used for codes, snapshot data, definitely fuel trims and getting other useful information.. Its good to have around to troubleshoot issues.. and for CEL's if your light is always on for some reason..
I'm hoping they release a firmware upgrade for the tuner that appends EGT's onto the UTEC Data log (like the AFRs) then it would be perfect..
but the Tuner has an EGT Probe port on it, but no probe available at the moment, I do think it uses a standard 5v type-K probe though..
And the OBD-II is used for codes, snapshot data, definitely fuel trims and getting other useful information.. Its good to have around to troubleshoot issues.. and for CEL's if your light is always on for some reason..
Yeah I hope they do too. If some peeps are interested I could probably set up a group buy on the probe. But I only want it if I can log it with the UTEC.
Could you split the signal from my defi gauge to the tuner? I am not sure if the defi probe is k type. But they are expensive so I would just want to buy a probe. I wonder if omori or someone else uses k type that is cheaper.
Ben
BTW Utec Tuner and remote switch will be here soon
Could you split the signal from my defi gauge to the tuner? I am not sure if the defi probe is k type. But they are expensive so I would just want to buy a probe. I wonder if omori or someone else uses k type that is cheaper.
Ben
BTW Utec Tuner and remote switch will be here soon
I think the different probes have different calibrations.. I do think a Type-K is standardized.. I think my Autometer Exhaust Gas Pyrometer is a Type-K probe...
I'll send a note to TurboXS and see what they recommend so I can make my own.. unfortunately it will be somewhat useless to me until they do append that value to the same logger that the AFR's are..
I do plan on seeing if I can "Split" the sensor to the gauge and the Tuner..
I'll send a note to TurboXS and see what they recommend so I can make my own.. unfortunately it will be somewhat useless to me until they do append that value to the same logger that the AFR's are..
I do plan on seeing if I can "Split" the sensor to the gauge and the Tuner..
Yeah for sure I don't want to have to spend money that I could spend toward cams or a fuel pump just to buy a sensor I already have. And I don't want to have to take my manifold off again and tap another sensor into it.
Ben
Ben
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