dude, 20psi on 91oct is good enough. I'm on 93oct and still running 19-20psi for daily driving. I rather be safe than be sorry.

Which timing column is the ecu and which one is the utec? The one with ignition timing mod is the utec? This thead is very helpful. Everybody should post their log here. Very helpful information for people who wants to self tune.

 

masterevo,

Do you have a log to post?

I want to compare my run to yours.

Please include the mods you have put in the car.

Thanks

 

Ok.. first, 91 octane, don't run much higher than 20psi if you want any sort of headroom for bad gas.. The fact that the UTEC isn't indicating knock doesnt mean there isn't any, it just means its not severe enough to be detrimental (you can tell this by looking at the stock ECU's timing column and see if it pulls back timing periodically)

A flat torque curve means that you have more "Drivable power" which means you have more opportunity to make shifts at different RPM's and not find the car seems to fall on its face..

Picking up torque is directly a factor of timing since the expanding gasses is what pushes against the piston, so the more time you give the gasses to expand, the more power you will produce. HOWEVER this is a double edged sword, because timing is a factor of "Leading" the upstroke before top dead center (anyone who shoots or hunts knows what leading a moving target is) If you lead too much, you can cause detonation, too little timing can lead to not enough combustion (high egt's are an indicator of an incomplete combustion)

The trick is to compromise your optimum timing, while leaving a margin of safety.. Also, as you increase power, you increase the combustion temp, therefore Fuel mixture becomes a factor at that point since the vaporized fuel contributes by absorbing heat.. Never use mixture to compensate for knock because of too much timing however, since there is a difference.. detonation is due to hot spots and is indirectly caused by the more complete combustion...

a flat torque curve is a good thing for daily driving, and also for performance.. peaky torque curves are like shooting at a bottle, or a barn.. which do you think is easier to hit?

 

Ya know.. This really gets me thinking, tuning really isn't the voodoo that people make it out to being, spending a few dollars on the right tools and a little understanding of how an engine works.. Then comes experience.. Don't fear making changes, just be certain your doing them a little at a time, and save what you've done previously just in case you want to roll it back..

I'm glad your following up changes with dyno runs, as an individual, you can save alot of money building your own maps, and getting 1/2hr dyno time and WBO2 sensor if you need it.. The more experience you get, the more you understand about the gas, boost, and engine for a particular car, the more likely you'll be able to "rough in" a map that will be a good starting point, then tuning goes alot faster.

 

I just got my utec along with the pro tuner. I dont have a chance to install them yet. As soon as they all get installed, I will log some data. Tuning will be very exciting. I'm hoping that my evo is not a knock-prone *****. She seems pretty tough, we'll see how tough she really is. Wish me luck!!!!!

 

Did you also receive my email with the revised map?

What do you think of it?

Also when you see the check engine light flash once when cruising and you step on it, and it kinda stumbles, is the ECU is pulling timing or something, is that knock the ECU is detecting?

Where is the ECU timing and the Revised timing the UTEC is providing?

Is it the Mod Ign Deg, or the Mod Ign#1?

, , , ,Load,Knock, , , Mod, Mod, , Mod
RPM, MAP, MAF,TPS,Site,Count, Ign#1, Inj#1, Ign, Fuel,Boost, MAF
, psia, Hz, % , , , deg , duty , deg, % ,(OL) , Hz
2125,+27.6, 226, 54, 00, 00, +19.3, 8.0,ECU. , -5.0, 73.00, 210 change to +16
2104,+27.6, 301, 54, 00, 00, +19.4, 8.0,ECU. , -5.0, 73.00, 275 make it closer?
2136,+27.6, 268, 68, 10, 00, +18.4, 10.0,+11.0, -5.0, 78.00, 233
2191,+27.6, 312, 95, 10, 00, +17.3, 11.0,+10.4, -5.0,100.00, 294
2256,+27.6, 345,100, 10, 00, +17.3, 11.0,+10.0, -5.0,100.00, 305
2331,+27.6, 308,100, 10, 00, +16.4, 12.0, +9.6, -5.0,100.00, 305
2406,+27.6, 344,100, 10, 00, +15.3, 13.0, +9.0, -5.0,100.00, 307
2474,+27.6, 370,100, 10, 00, +15.4, 14.0, +8.4, -5.0,100.00, 428
2560,+27.6, 392,100, 10, 00, +13.5, 15.0, +8.0, -5.0,100.00, 400
2639,+27.4, 418,100, 10, 00, +11.8, 17.0, +8.0, -5.0,100.00, 509

 

Let me know if you need help.

 

Flashing once is probably knock, sometimes knock events are picked up when there are sudden changes in timing.. a good example is the transition point at cruise when you go from your closed loop ECU timing, to your open loop maps a good example is the ECU transition in this case you've gone from the ECU timing of 19.4 to the UTEC's 11 degrees... thats a huge jump in timing and will trigger a knock event.. your low RPM low Load timing needs to reflect the most common transitions you would see if you want to minimize this..

 

See the overlayed plots... Good Illustration of your gains across the board, however I think some of this is weather differences since I don't know what the conditions were to apply SAE correction..

The numbers are off, but the delta gains would be accurate if your running conditions were similar..

 

That is a huge jump in power.

The first run was when its about 90 degrees F

The second run was when its about 74 degrees F

I don't know if the power I've got is from the settings or the temperature change?

What do you think?

Thanks

 

A little of both.. 20 degree change in temp isn't going to account for the entire improvement, but about 80% of it..

 

Ok.. with the corrections you can see the changes made a little bit of difference, but not drastically..

This is a good illustration of how conditions can affect power output...

 

I think this also proves that "data log lab" with SAE corrections is a useful and consistent tuning tool assuming these things:

1) Record Temp, Humidity, and find out the altitude in your area
2) Always make your runs on the same stretch of road, and in the same gear (3rd)
3) Make sure your calibration file accurately reflects the tire size, and driveline losses

These were two different runs at two temps, and two different days.. yet their surprisingly similar in the areas that weren't modified.. it proves that this can be a useful tuning tool, just don't expect your HP numbers to be all that accurate, what is important is the difference between two runs can show improvement and therefore you can tune with it.

The more comparisons to dyno #'s I can make, the more I can calculate the losses and provide more accurate calibration files to the guys at Data Log Lab..

 

Jack

Not to get too off topic here, but I was interested in the Data Log Lab program, but I am a little confused on the program itself.

Are you just running the "TurboXS UTEC Data Log Only" program that is $61.95, to calculate graphs, and charts? I understand you have your own software to change and log, but does the charting software of DLL just utilize a .txt file created from you software, or like me, the Hyperterminal, or does DLL log straight from the UTEC?

I hope I was clear on my questions....

 

DLL uses the file you save from any logging source.. my app just writes the output to a file, but basically its the same as if you saved your output from hyperterminal..

Once you get the log into the app, all the features you need for the graphing and analysis are there.. the logs really are just comma delimited text files, so it doesnt matter how you capture the files whether you use hyperterminal or UCC2 (using its export function)


THe easiest way to answer your questions definitively is to download their 30 day evaluation copy and load up your utec logs and play with it.. If you like it, then you can register it.