I am making my intercooler piping with my friend who can weld. I have the rrm nonIC right now and have the spearco intercooler that i bought off waggi. What size piping is ideal for the following pipes:
-turbo to intercooler (this may have to be split into two pieces)
-intercooler to throttle body (how many pieces should this be split into?)
-the intake pipes

What is the best place to buy high temp coupler/hosing online?

He is also making the turboback for me for $300, including the parts. We are going to to do 2.5" all the way back with no cat. I am going with a straight-thru resonator and magnaflow muffler. What length resonator should i go with? What magnaflow muffler should i go with? Center/offset inlet? Center/offset outlet? What size canister? Basically what part number is recomended?

RRM nonIC red powdercoated pipes for sale, pm me

 

bump

 

2.375-2.5 for faster response on the upper/lower intercooler piping(notes: 2.375" is roughly 60mm, size of the overbore TB. stock DSM's have 2" piping with the 2G TB at 55mm and 1G at 60mm). you can go smaller if you like. larger piping would mean you're trying to ram a larger volume of air into the engine at the cost of the time needed to fill the pipes. 2.75-3 for the intake pipe.

when me and my roommates pull together for a welder, i plan on the 4" (2.5" core) round muffler #14416 and a 2.5" core 3-chamber muffler the same size as stock. i know you wanted a straight through suggestion, but thats what i'm going to go with. i'm not much into being blatant driving down the road. but since i'm probably going to do the welding, i'd probably make a straight-through section for race days(rare).

silicone hoses:
www.turbohoses.com
www.extrememotorsports.com
www.roadraceengineering.com

 

thanks a lot for the response rhyzin. if i put in a magnaflow muffler and a large resonator, you think i will still be really loud, i really want to be as quiet as possible?

oh and what is the best place to route the piping to get from the turbo to the fmic? keep in mind i have the rrm kit with the turbo up against the hood. i think rrm puts it underneath the headlight and on top of the washer fluid.

 

though i don't know for sure, you'll probably get a raspy sound without the cat. i think there were some sound clips around here with cars with test pipe and greddy evo catback, and it still had a hint of that raspy sound when you get up on rpm. might be different since your turbo is in the way.

though i haven't really heard the magnaflow 3-chamber muffler, looking at the way it's designed, it's like stock except the perforations in the input and output pipes are enough for gasses to pass through much easier. there's a pic on RRM's site of a cutaway of the stock muffler. the stock muffler is a 3 chamber except the input pipe has small and fewer perforations than the output, and the chamber at the end is totally blocked off except to the output pipe through perforations. the magnaflow 3-chamber have open passage through each chamber as well as larger and equal perforations through the in/output pipes. i'm basically picking it based on design and how i figure it's the best balance between flow and quietness. but i guess i won't know til i have enough money to try it out. my tastes lends more to comfort than *****-out HP.

honestly, magnaflow straight through mufflers are quiet by comparison to any generic muffler or any round muffler like the apexi n-1 mufflers. mufflers that are oval or large seem to have the most sound deadening. but also there's the fact that the turbo is in the way to muffle sound as well. this is mostly just obervations tho.

if you have the non-IC rrm kit, then if you want it to be like their IC kit, you'll need the turbo compressor housing with the output "nozzle" cut and welded towards the passenger headlight. they route it under the passenger headlight, through the IC, then up from the driver's headlight. i'm sure RRM would do some sort of swap with you for the compressor housing, for a price. if not, you could probably rotate the housing(if need be) then take a 90 degree silicone hose and a 90 degree pipe, or just a 180 degree silicone hose so you can get the piping to go under the passenger headlight.

the least amount of piping(at least i think) without having to cut and reweld the compressor housing would be to get the roadraceengineering.com top-to-bottom intercooler. this way you can get both input and output of the intercooler to the same side of the car. you can route both intercooler pipes under the driver's headlight. the only thing i'm not sure of is whether there's enough room for the top and bottom intercooler end tanks so then it won't be lower than the front bumper. some eclipses with this intercooler sometimes show the bottom end tank under the front bumper, and it looks pretty ugly. then again, it seems to me that the space between the bottom of the bumper to the bumper support on the lancer is taller than an eclipse's. but i dunno?

good luck and have fun.

 

i dont think it would sound as raspy as the evo catback and test pipe setup bc the greddy exhaust is louder and the test pipe is just a straight thru pipe that doesnt reduce sound levels at all. i guess i will just try it and see and if it is too loud, ill put in a resonated hi flo cat.

i believe the compressor outlet needs to face 190 degress around (not 180) to fit rrms pipes. they sell a intercooler upgrade package, but i already have a fmic and they are trying to WAY WAY overcharge me so i am trying to do it myself with a friend.

i dont see any bolts on the compressor, can i get it off so that i can get it cut and welded? or can i just stuff a rag down in it and then have it cut and welded while still on the car?

i wouldnt want to get a side mount intercooler when i already have an intercooler. i wouldnt want to do that anyways bc it would have to be a lot smaller and the air getting to it will be much or restricted. i need a lot of air hitting bc i am going to be running 9psi and 11-12psi eventually. i also dont think there would be enough room for two sets of pipes on that side.

 

no bolts on the compressor? it should be towards the middle of the turbo on the other side of the housing from the input and outputs on the compressor housing.




you can see the turbine housing bolts in this picture and the compressor housing bolts should be across from it on the compressor housing. some turbos have 6 bolts and a "slider" piece of metal on the back end of the housing so you can rotate the housing without having to undo all the bolts. i also suggest porting your turbine housing since you haven't installed your turbo yet.



here's the top-to-bottom intercooler i was talking about. just as big as a side-to-side fmic, just top-to-bottom. being 18"x6", i would imagine it could take more than that amount of boost. here's a flow chart:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...flowcharts.htm
it's a griffin/spearco intercooler and RRE compares them to HKS/Greddy.

 

i wouldn't recommend cutting and welding with the housing still on the turbo. just that chance that **** will fall into it and maybe stick on the the compressor wheel. i'd make it a last resort.

 

ok thanks, i was looking for bolts on the back of the compressor, only place i thought they were located. i already have the turbo mounted, have had it for 7-8 months now. i also already have the fmic.

you think i should split the pipes up with some couplers (like the turbo-to-intercooler pipe and intercooler-to-turbo pipe) so there is more flexibility? im worried that when i launch that the pipes would be too rigid and not have enough give.

 

oh my bad. thought you haven't installed it yet. well there should be bolts behind both housings. behind each housing are 2 "C" shaped metal pieces that are bolted down by either 4 or 6 bolts. if you unbolt just the 2 bolts where the 2 "C" shaped pieces touch each other, you can leave the other 2 or 4 bolts left and just rotate the housings. this is just a general thing on turbos as i haven't seen how the housings are attached to the T-28.

flexibility is a good idea since stock mounts let the engine rock more than an inch. there are some couplings that are expanded just in the middle for a bit more flexibility than straight couplers, if you're really concerned although i wouldn't sweat it. i've seen a video of a supra on a dyno that had that middle part balloon up once. it was cool, but don't think we'll ever have that problem. when using the straight couplers, you can probably just give 1 centimeter of space between the pipes when tightening.

 

ok i thought that would be best with adding couplers, i will be filling my motor mounts soon too.

i need to look at the compressor housing again bc i only ever look at it in the dark lol and im blind.

 

sorry ot... but how much where they gonna charge you for the non-i/c to i/c kit?

 

rhysin is the man...i seriously dont know how you know this much stuff...but i guess its passion...mike good luck man..im wishing i had a turbo right now

 

thanks rigo.

for the fmic, couplers, mounting brackets, and clamps, it is 1200. however i had the 700 fmic already so you would think that would be 700 off the price right? but no, he tried to charge me 800, and i got him down to 700, but no further. that is a ripoff for pipes and couplers and so i am doing it myself.

 

anybody know of a 3.5" double wall tip that has a 2.5" inlet?