SIMSSEGA

iTrader: (6)

Yes this is another custom turbo thread but this will be the only one that is josh's lancer specific so i thought it would be to my benefit to start this. Now that i have that out of the way heres my situation. I bought maximum17ft's turbo kit that he pieced together. So it is a custom turbo kit that didnt come with any install instructions. So i will be updating this thread as i go so you guys can help me out and to make sure that i dont f*ck up anything or miss anything major. Ive been doing alot of reading in the past few weeks trying to learn as much as possible but im sure there will still many bumps that i run into when i am installing this.
Thanks to jay's new thread i can also go by that for preparing for my turbo install. If you dont know what im talking about heres a link https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=148574 Maximum gave me some very quick and simple instructions that help alot but dont spell everything out for me. this is what he pmed me
1.)take off upper radiator hose(slowly and try to catch the fluid, lol) and take out entire fan assembly. (covered in jays post so i will just take the whole radiator out i decided)
2.)install turbo/up-dn pipes onto header, and put in car, attach all the lower and upper bolts so its back in one piece.(piece of cake no problem here)
3.)assemble ALL of the ic piping, and m.a.s., including the fmic from turbo inlet all the way to the manifold, including B.O.V., MBC, and wastegate tubing. make sure everything is SUPERTIGHT!! put radiator hose back on, and top off radiator fluid.(i have a diagram for all the pipes so i can get all those together but im not too sure about the mbc the first pic is al i have so...im still not too sure how to hook that up and the wastegate can someone with a turbo snap a pic for me so i know how that goes)
4.)install fmu (theres a great stickie in the how to forum so that shouldnt be a problem but i have one question in that stickie there only seems to be one T connector and pic 2 is what boe posted so they dont really go together or am i all mixed up?)
5.)install new fuel pump (Same as the fmu theres a stickie and thanksfully i have no questions about this one)
6.)IF you get this far without giving up and taking to a shop, lol, you can tap your oil pan.
7.)tap your oil pan with the tap included in the kit, buy some jb weld and JBweld the turbo drain fitting into oil pan(MAKE SURE ALL METAL SHAVING ARE OUT OF YOUR OIL PAN!!!!)( I have a friend that has taken apart his 2g many times so i hope he can help me out but if he cant i will be asking alot of questions)
8.)connect your oil feed line to the sending unit on the car.(this makes sense and i read that i should make sure its all down hill from the turbo to the oil pan and no kinks but that pretty obvious))
9.)buy some 20w50 regular non-synthetic oil, make sure all turbo oil fittings and car fittings are sealed and dry, then fill with the oil.(Pretty sure i can handle this one without any snags)
10.)take out your stock plugs, and replace them with the NGK plugs included, GAP THEM FIRST TO .030, if u put them in the way they are, the car wont run, they need to be gapped first to .030, if u dont have a gapper tool, they are like 50 cents from any auto store.(already bought my gapper and there is an article on how to do this somewhere on the site but this should be no problem and im sure that will clear up all questions)
11.)install the guage pod, and the boost guage, and if i were u i would invest in a oil pressure guage/and or a air/fuel guage, and later u can install the egt guage im sending ya.(this would be the only reason i would wait on the install but i really really dont want to, im paranoid that i will be running lean and i wont know it. i will be boosting very low to start out with so i hope i will be safe but can i take my car anywhere to check my af ratios?)
12.)install and wire up the slim fan.(if i were u, i wouldnt cut your stock fans in half, i would buy another slimfan for the other side of the radiator so u still have 2 fans. MAKE SURE U HAVE THE FAN WIRED IN CORRECT POLARITY SO IT WORKS AS A PUSH STYLE FAN AND NOT PULL STYLE.(wiring is np i can always check the polarity and i will be cutting my stock fan in half just for the record and if i over heat ill get my second fan)
13.)turn the mbc all the way down so you should only be pushing around 4 psi. DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING, and i stress everything GREATLY,lol.(like i said very low but boost none the less)
14.)prime your oil feed line, then hook it back up and fire her UP!!!(i know how to prime the oil line so i should be safe on this and i will have to check everything once again just to be safe)
15.) check for any leaks of any kind, take it for a test ride, turn it off, check for leaks, wait till the next day and check for leaks again, also check oil level/coolant level.(solid piece of information)
16.)turn up mbc a few psi, go for a test ride, let cool, retighten everything, and GO HAVE SOME FUN!!!!
17.)keep an eye on everything all the time, you will be going through a lot of oil, and u dont wanna be running on no oil pushing 6-7 psi or things will definatly go B-O-O-M!!!, LOL.(im not sure that i like that lol but oh well)
18.)go beat a ricer in a honda spivic, and tell me about it so i get atleast one joy from this kit i built up, lol. ( i dont race but ill see wha i can do
Thats about enough for now thanks in advance guys
~Josh

livelyjay

iTrader: (20)

Here's my wiring diagram for the gauges I had setup. The wiring for the boost gauge signal will only be there if you have an electrical boost gauge. If you have a mechanical boost gauge, replace the signal lines with a vac line.



Here's a diagram for setting up oil pressure and temp sending units. You could put the temp sending unit in the flow of the oil though. So the temp unit should be on a Tee with the turbo feed line and leave the pressure unit on it's own line.

evokong

thank for all infor

AznFlip

iTrader: (8)

Where do you connect the oil feed line? To the block?

SIMSSEGA

iTrader: (6)

I ran into a problem tha i have never heard of. The rrm header i have is hitting the turbo when i bolt the up pipe and header together and there is a slight gap where the header and the up pipe meet. Look at pics am i supposed to put a dent in the header to fix this?

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

How bad are they hitting? I'd probably just remove the heat wrap and put on a spray coating or something. If you need more space than that I'd probably grind down the flange a little before I put a dent in the piping...but that's just me.

SIMSSEGA

iTrader: (6)

its actually hitting the turbo itself take a look

Boeturbolancer

iTrader: (26)

you've got an old version header... the new ones have been modified so that doesn't happen.

SIMSSEGA

iTrader: (6)

well that sucks i got it in feb of this year i though i was gettting the version 2. Grinding it down seems like the best option right now and other ideas?

maxum17ft

iTrader: (7)

wait a minute, i had that together no problem, the only difference was i had the stock headers, which its supposed to work better with the rrm headers, can u show a pic of the turbo, with the headers bolted up as best as possible??? maybe it got bumped in shipping or something and is now clocked the wrong way. there should be no problem here, that was like the easiest part for me.

i had the turbo clocked for the stock headers, u will definatly have to adjust it for the rrm headers cause i had the oil drain going in front of the headers and with rrm's setup it goes between the 1-2 header tubes. just mess around with clocking it and adjusting the exhaust housing and after rotating both of them parts and tightening back up of course, and you'll get it to fit like a glove.

EDIT: i guess i took to long to type this, the above has already been answered. i wouldnt grind down cause if u got to far u r screwed, if i were u i would dent it or SELL IT BACK TO ME, LOL!!!

SIMSSEGA

iTrader: (6)

okok i few hits with the hammer fixed the problem and i didnt have to make too big of a dent. MAxum it looks like the piping was for the rrm or any other straight ic the pipe on the evo one piont down so i had to rig it up so its works, it looks ugly as hell but it works for now. im having a problem fitting the filter pipe over the pipe that the bov comes out of. I duno what to do maby get a smaller filter but that wont really help that much.

maxum17ft

iTrader: (7)

u mean like this?

turbo>rubber pipe>bov pipe>m.a.s.>filter.

are you having trouble here? rubber pipe>bov pipe, if that is where u cant connect it, then this is the problem i was telling u about in my pm's, u need a 2-->2.5" METAL coupler, the 2" end will slide into the rubber pipe, and the 2.5" end will couple to the bov pipe with any standard 2.5 or 3 inch coupler. it is 12 am and i just realized everything i just typed is not making much sense, but that is what u gotta do.

either that OR take one of your old intake couplers and just BARELY tighten it down enough onto the rubber turbo pipe(being sure not to tighten too much and crush the rubber pipe), and then just stick the other end of the intake coupler onto the bov piece and tighten down. dont worry about stuff blowing apart here as there is OBVIOUSLY ONLY negative pressure here, just make it tight enough so it doesnt fall apart.

SIMSSEGA

iTrader: (6)

thats not the problem there just isnt enough room there ill take a pic tommorow so you know what im talking about.

SIMSSEGA

iTrader: (6)

Ok gus i have all these pieces for tapping the oil pan and no instructions wtf are all of them for. The larger gold piece is obviously for the return line but what are the rest of them for???? The small hose doesnt fit on any of the threadings wtf?

livelyjay

iTrader: (20)

One fitting goes on the turbo to connect the line to the turbo. The second fitting is for the turbo line to connect to the engine right above the oil filter. You need a 8mm hex wrench to get the plug off of the engine.