After doing some research and being told several different things to try, i decided ill go with the easiest way first...

Can i "T" into my brake booste vac line to run my Greddy Type RS bov? I was reading up on a protoge speed forum and the guy had the same BOV as me but he also got a turkey sound out of it.

They told him either :

-his vac line was kinked because it looked kinked,
- the spring was too hard
- the settings are too soft/too hard
- The vac line he ran his "T" into was too weak since he already had 2 other things running of it - same deal with mine

So his solution to the turckey sound was he "T" into the brake booster. i want to try that too, but i don't know if:

a) can i do this on the lancer
b) where is the line for the vacuum on the brake booster (if i should do this)


The next option if i can't do this is i take apart the BOV and change out the springs. Apprently on the Type S, there are 2 springs in it and a guy told me that i should take out the bigger spring because it's too much for low boost. I don't have instructiosn on this BOV since it was used, so i don't know what to take apart and rather not try till i know so i don't break it.

What should i do?

 

You want a vac source from the intake manafold. It is the strongest place for vacuum since its just about where its created.

If you have a turkey sound, you have a blown diaphram. The valve wont hold boost very well if at all after that. Now if you mean it flutters (sounds like a blow off done rapeatedly), your bov isnt tuned correctly.

 

its not broken, it holds the boost no problem.

ive been readin the Type s is for lower boost applications and the RS is for higher or better for higher boost apps. because it uses 2 springs and can hold more boost. But i also read its basically the newer and improved version of the type S.

That aside, i get a sound that sounds like a turkey. http://youtube.com/watch?v=MsbYVowmvSE check this out and listen to it....

EDIT:

It doestn stall anymore when i free rev...is used to stall because it was set too soft.

 

Thats just flutter. You should adjust the preload on the valve a bit and even flip it around (outlet to the inlet and vise versa).

 

Adjust pre load, you mean tighten it more?

And switch the way my BOV sits now? Can i do that ? i don't think it will function properly. But i could be wrong, because from my knowledge, there is only one in and one out on a BOV.


Greddy Type RS

that's how it is set up now...i know in the pic my vac line is not hooked up, but there is one, this is just a pic taken during the install.

 

Yes tighten/loosen. If you flip it the other way it will take less load to hold the valve closed and work better for lower boost. Its how all VW/Audi cars have their bosch diaphram dv/bov from the factory. That is, if the bov is open at idle like i believe it is

 

I used to use the bosch one on my saab...then i replaced it with a turbo xs (or xs turbo, i forget which one, it's the one that you don't buy for cheap on ebay ), but form what i remeber it too only had one inlet and one out let...funtioned like a PVC i think because if you flipped it, the boost pressure didnt get vented back.

And i believe the BOV are closed at idle because then the car would stall if it was open at idle...it would be letting too much air out and the MAF would be confused and then the car would stall.

 

a maf car uses a dv and recirculates the air back into the system at idle behind the maf. So they should be open at idle. Stalling would occure if you leaked the vented air at idle or moved WAY to much air at idle. A 34mm bov is a little over kill for a 180-200whp car and only making 7-10psi. A 25mm valve would probably work better. Wonder if roadrace tried both ...hhmm.

It is turboXS and they just use a basic piston design and can be installed both ways. All VW/Audi use 25mm inlet/outlet valves even up to 400+whp. But anyways, if the bov is open at idle, flip it and see if that helps.

 

cant wait to install mines

 

looks like its on the right way to me, thats how my stock evo8 is and i have no problem. i know i have the crapy plastic one but what can you do when your low on money and the nipple on it breaks. haha PLASTIC WELD!

try messing with the bov preload. and if thats not it take it apart and make sure everything is ok inside.

 

The valve can go both ways

 

ok well ill flip iot around, see what happens. I talked to the guy who had this BOV before, he bought it new, and it also fluttered for him but he was running 13psi.

So maybe its upside down or lacking a good strong vac source?

 

im not one to try and found out, i put it in the way it comes on evos. do it how you please

 

lol

 

Guess what smart guy, the stock EVO comes with the bov in the opposite direction.

It funtions better like this as i said before. If you dont believe me, this is from a post on here by Mike@Forgemotorsport

"The OEM Evo valves, however, have the intercooler piping pressure enter the valve through the port on the side of the diagram above, and this is better for three reasons.

One, the spring tension in the valve is not so stiff that the valve won't be "pulled" open at idle/under vacuum, thus it CAN open at idle maintaining proper function of the closed loop system.

Secondly, since the positive pressure enters the OEM valves from the port directly opposed to the main chamber, under load, the only pressure required to hold the valve shut is a combination of the spring pressure and the pressure reference from the intake manifold.

Lastly, at throttle lift, not only will the valve immediately open from the residual charge pressure "pushing" the disk off of its seat, but the return of the intake manifold to vacuum will also "pull" the valve open releasing the residual charge pressure before any lag or compressor surging can take place. "