Here is the list of random findings from the weekend.

I dont think the FMU does anything. At 2-3+ psi at 3000+ RPM I go dead lean, I even maxed out the AFC and it gets no better. I took it off the intake manifold and put the line to the fitting on the compressor thinking it may help but that didn't work. I put in the GSX fuel pump hoping for a miracle, didnt help either, so I'll be figuring out the GSX fuel injectors soon. BTW the fuel pump has a high pitched whine anyone else get this?

Speaking of injectors, the 440's from a GSX are nearly twice the size but just a bit longer. I pulled the fuel rail off and got a stock injector out and tested the resistence it was 18 ohms, the GSX ones are 4 ohms. THe GSX injectors fit right into the top of the rail like the stock and the bottoms just kind of float on a bushing. THe extra length should be able to be made up by adding a little bit more to the spacers where the 2 bolts for the fuel rail are. My dad has a little bag of thoses metal oxide 15 ohm resistors, I know the difference is 14 but one ohm shouldn't kill it.

The lower left hand bolt on the manifold has been discussed numerous times on the forum and it was recently suggested the it can be left off. My response to that is NO WAY. I left it off for one night and put like 40 miles on the car and when I took it off the next day the exhaust had eaten the whole corner of the metal gasket off, next stop would be the head! Bad bad idea to save a little frustration.

VTA blow off valves. Well as stated by numerous people on here they do indeed make your car shut off. I talked to my local DSM people and they told me there is no way to overcome that with an AFC. So since it kills the car you have to manage it so it won't. It doesnt die between shifts as long as you go to the next gear. It you are revved up push in the clutch and attempt to coast it will die every time. You need to give it a little goose after it blows off and you are going to stop. Not to difficult and worth the extra effort because that **** sounds awesome.

How many of you guys are actually piping your wastegates back into the exhaust? I just bolted it on and left it, doesnt seem to make much noise .

I cant think of anything else other than I should have taken a picture of ol smokey joe before I took it apart. I know Stew is the original "Stinky" but I can gaurantee I was way stinkier on saturday.

 

so u are having a problem with fuel with a 12:1 FMU and a gsx fuel pump??? dosent make too much sence to me because rrm's kit from what i know doesnt use larger injectors, or an upgraded fuel pump.......man let me know what happens with this fuel problem as i am doing my turbo set up myself as well

Cory

Vero Beach, Florida

P.S. Dude that "wine" u hear is the fuel pump working no worries

 

There are high and low impedance injectors. It does matter in the long run. Try looking for RX-7's injectors.

 

These dudes at homemadeturbo.com did resistors on DSM injectors and put them in a honda http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_pr...ors/index.html

I don't see why it wouldn't work on a mitsu. All they have to be is 18 ohms on the positive side.

BTW I forgot to post that my plugs (NGK Iridiums 2 heat ranges colder) were gray/white when I took them out, I forget what that means off hand but it isn't good, I think.

Another question is what happens when injectors hit fuel cut? Do they shut off? Is it possible I was trying to feed too much gas, hitting the cut and then going lean?

 

gray/white = lean condition

fuel cut = the ecu cuts its signal to the injectors to fire more fuel. therefore, you lose HP immediately. Manufacturer's safety.

you won't have too much gas, unless using bigger injectors. you will have stumbling idle or bellow tons of black smoke from the exhaust.


see injector article from import tuner - july 03, pg 120-125.

peak & hole (low imp) = 2-3 ohms
saturated (high imp) = 12-16 ohms

saturated (fire all injectors at the same time) and be used in P&h (fired precisely at a pre-determined time) system but not the other way around.

this is a rough excerpt.

 

Good Call Bahamut, I've been doing some reading as to how saturated and peak and hold injectors work. I realize that peak and holds require a substantial bit of current to open (I guess thats why they are 4 ohms) and then just a little current to hold open where saturated just need constant low current. The circuitry to run peak and holds is different so it can handle the high current. Crap i guess im going to need different ones.

Whats RRM charging for highflow saturated injectors? DIY Turbo is expensive If no one answers here Im calling them tomorrow after skool.

BTW the black smoke thing is that too rich or what? Im pretty sure the turbo was burning oil due to the oily sludge that has built up on my exhaust and there was a constant cloud behind the car at all speeds.

 

BTW the black smoke thing is that too rich or what? Im pretty sure the turbo was burning oil due to the oily sludge that has built up on my exhaust and there was a constant cloud behind the car at all speeds.

====================

That can be a part of the symptom too.

That's the thing about hacked wire harness for injector. There is an x-factor if it can work 100% of the time as implied.

The +2g RX-7 uses 550cc for the primary and 850cc for the secondary.

S2K uses 360cc, +93 NA supra uses 315cc, the new celica gts uses 310cc . . . see if they fit.

Most nissan injectors are side mount which are a bit different than the rest in the market.

 

I had black smoke while driving (greyish, but dark grey) when I was running a 9.89:1 AFR (according to the stock O2 sensor) and i still have black droplets in my exhaust, but it seems like carbon-filled fuel droplets that make it through my high-flow. You may wanna check and see if you're spitting oil or if it's just really rich fuel. I dunno why you'd be so rich at idle and lean under boost though. Good luck figuring that out. My FMU is going in on the 15th (I'd do it myself, but my car would be undrivable with my ECU tuned as it is). Hopefully I don't come into the same problem.

 

I snagged a B&M Command Flow Fuel Pressure regualtator, its for a Honduh but it should easily fit the Lancer. I figured our FPR looks a hell of a lot more like a Honda vs the ones they make for a 2g eclipse. You only have to cut the top off (No fuel involved only vacuum) and put this thing over it. The only issue I see is getting it to seal up good, but thats what they make RTV for. I figure if I get across the board fuel pressure up the FMU/AFC won't have to work so hard and should be able to keep up.

 

im using this one, havent had any problems yet

 

in my setup i need to run about 60 psi of fuel with 300cc injectors and this makes me run a little rich. its all about fuel pressure so once you get the FPR on you'll be set...

also the GSX fuel pump...is it a stock fuel pump or is it the walbro? the walbro makes an extreamly loud whine...but i dunno about the stock gsx fuel pump if it makes noise. but if you increase your fuel pressure your going to need the higher flowing fuel pump.

 

It isnt Walboro as far as I know, it looks exactly like the regular pump except its longer and it whines. I thought I saw that they run 190Lph
I wish I had a pressure guage to see what exactly Im running. The AEM FPR you posted is a nicer version of what Im doing. I only paid $55 bux for it.
Where did you cut in for a pressure gauge? I can pick up one of those for $45 from the same dude. I was thinking 56ish on my pressure I don't know what the stock injectors will handle.

 

You can get your injectors modified with RPW. They should be able to get some injectors up to you and then you send yours in. Don't know about pricing but just call Vision Imports and talk to Matt (407-923-3966). They can make you 300cc or larger injectors which are essentialy just bored out stock ones, so you don't have to worry about fitament problems or it not working with your computer. Just tell them that Josh Kikta told you that they would be able to send them first, so hopefully you won't have any down time. I think Zlancer can vouch that these injectors do the job.

 

Injectors are on hold due to funding issues, between college the car and my preformance parts for the bike Im strapped for awhile. Im just going to turn down the boost to like 5 and turn up the fuel pressure for awhile.

On another front, anyone got any bright ideas for getting the oil drain fitting to stop oozing where I tapped the pan? Its right in the front about as high up on aluminum part as I could drill and tap. The fitting is a brass pipe fitting and it just screws in, since its a pipe fitting it gets tighter the more you turn but it is aluminum so the threads will pull out if I crank on it anymore. That white teflon tape turned into teflon goo when the oil hit it. Im about to give up on it as I have drained the oil twice (8 quarts wasted ) to fool with it already.

 

If you can't weld it, JB weld it.

If you're on AIM, IM me later about injectors (I won't be home until about 10:30EST). I may have a solution for you.