Turbo In Progress
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From: Otsego Minnesota
I got the intercooler from HartLancer, I have no idea where it came from. It's huge though, I looked all over it for a brand name I didn't see anything. The welds are ok on it, making me think someone with a clue made it but not professionally in a factory. If I had more disposable income I would have the rods and pistons already. Until then Im gonna run til it blows and then buy the good stuff. By the way its 1-2 weeks before it goes back on, college is killing me and the weekends seem to be getting shorter.
Oh I almost forgot, I found some new (new to me anyway) gasket maker Permatex makes, usually you buy Blue Red or Grey RTV in squeeze tube, but this crap is extra thick and black and you need to use a caulking gun to apply it. I put it all over the drain fitting and screwed it back in. Let me tell you it is some nasty stuff. It costs twice as much like 12 bucks. Hopefully it is worth it. Damn the details.
Oh I almost forgot, I found some new (new to me anyway) gasket maker Permatex makes, usually you buy Blue Red or Grey RTV in squeeze tube, but this crap is extra thick and black and you need to use a caulking gun to apply it. I put it all over the drain fitting and screwed it back in. Let me tell you it is some nasty stuff. It costs twice as much like 12 bucks. Hopefully it is worth it. Damn the details.
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From: Otsego Minnesota
I got the B&M fuel regulator (Honda PN# 46059) working, it requires slight modification, you need to make a nickel sized ring out of a coat hanger for a spacer and a little RTV to seal it up. I left the adjuster screwed out as far as I could and started the car up and guess what? It was dead lean on the AF, so I gave it a turn or two drove it around and it was going lean when I stepped on it. Another crank on it and I could step on it a little more before it went lean and finally I got it to where it bounces til like 4300 or so and then holds a light or 2 rich which is pretty good. At least I know this thing works and this should be the answer to my fuel issues. I know adjusting fuel pressure with an AF meter sounds stupid but I like being ghetto, especially if it doesnt cost me anything more. Just posting more options for the rest of you.
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Slowly but surely it is crawling along. I rushed it last time and this time it's going to be bullet proof before it goes back on. I fixed the oozie oil pan, added the FPR and today Im going to finish putting the turbo back together. I have a few pics of the rebuild to post later, there isn't a lot to a TC I was suprised.
My dad is rebuilding the manifold too, he doesn't like it and I'm skeptical of it too, it was made out of aluminized steel and he says thats a ***** to be welding on so the new one is made out of mild steel. Our manifold manufacturing facilities consist of everything at my dads work, he is a welder, but he can only work on it during lunch so its gonna take a little time.
My dad is rebuilding the manifold too, he doesn't like it and I'm skeptical of it too, it was made out of aluminized steel and he says thats a ***** to be welding on so the new one is made out of mild steel. Our manifold manufacturing facilities consist of everything at my dads work, he is a welder, but he can only work on it during lunch so its gonna take a little time.
Airline... if you are using an AFR reading off the O2 be extremely careful for as temp increases they read differently then what they actually are. Ensure that around 5k you are atleast in the third green light maybe flickering in the second... it should stay this way all the way to 6k+. Other wise you will be running to lean.
On the low end of the house... before 45k you should be in the 4th maybe flickering in the third bar. Agian these are very loose parameters but should get you close. From there you will need to put it on a dyno and see where your at and adjust your fuel accordingly.
Also one issue you will have using the regulator like you have is that your low end maybe to rich when you punch it around 2k... that is why FMU's are prefered as they don't actually increase fuel pressure till they are under boost... other than that a Rising fuel regulator is used with bigger injectors to get it as close to a 1:1 ratio as possible. At 5psi you should be on the right track for now but to increase you seriously need to check into your fuel setup.
Hate to see you invest so much and lose it all to burnt motor because you were to lean. Just a bit of advice... hope it assists. That intercooler looks huge by the way
On the low end of the house... before 45k you should be in the 4th maybe flickering in the third bar. Agian these are very loose parameters but should get you close. From there you will need to put it on a dyno and see where your at and adjust your fuel accordingly.
Also one issue you will have using the regulator like you have is that your low end maybe to rich when you punch it around 2k... that is why FMU's are prefered as they don't actually increase fuel pressure till they are under boost... other than that a Rising fuel regulator is used with bigger injectors to get it as close to a 1:1 ratio as possible. At 5psi you should be on the right track for now but to increase you seriously need to check into your fuel setup.
Hate to see you invest so much and lose it all to burnt motor because you were to lean. Just a bit of advice... hope it assists. That intercooler looks huge by the way
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From: Otsego Minnesota
Ugh! I am seriously short on time these days and I have the car on hold. 25 hours of work per week + 15 credits at college + Minnesota's rapidy declining weather + GF + everyone I know needs me to help them move = no progress on the car. If it doesnt happen in the next couple weeks it's on hold til spring cuz I'm putting the car up for winter.
Anyone want to sell me a Metro or some other sub-compact that I can pound on in the snow?
Anyone want to sell me a Metro or some other sub-compact that I can pound on in the snow?


