Big turbo problem
yea def, doesnt sound liek too bad of damage, but jsut that the line was securely on there, you might want ot get the pipes rewrapped, your pistons should be fine, the connection must be faulty thats all i can think of
I agree with Turboit, sounds like a bad connection on the return line. Maybe it wasn't tightened enough, or it could have had stripped threads on either the male or female end. Hard to say. I've had my RRM kit in since March and I had only one problem, my wastegate bolts loosened up a bit, so I went out and got some better lock washers and tightened the bolts down with a prudence. No problems since. I run 6 lbs, and I drive my car daily and I have no problems with underhood melting so far. I am, however, going to get the EVO style carbon fiber hood just to be safe when I get my tax return.
I hope you get everything fixed man. Good luck.
I hope you get everything fixed man. Good luck.
dont forget theres al ot of things made for heat reduction ont he market, i always post this link because i believe they are the best and most thorough company on the subject:
http://www.designengineering.com/
http://www.designengineering.com/
Where did you run the oil line? Mine popped twice (in 3 days no less) because of the engine torquing and tugging too hard on it. Ended up getting 2 oil changes and some new SS hose. 
Run it as close to the block as possible without it getting in the way of things, and make there there isn't TOO much slack (but enough for the motor to shift on heavy throttle). I dunno if it's the only problem or even a problem at all, but it may help. Best of luck.

Run it as close to the block as possible without it getting in the way of things, and make there there isn't TOO much slack (but enough for the motor to shift on heavy throttle). I dunno if it's the only problem or even a problem at all, but it may help. Best of luck.
Last edited by HobieKopek; Nov 10, 2003 at 07:12 AM.
just put my turbo on saturday by saturday night the car doesn't run.i hit full boost in first then when i shifted to second the car just lost power and died. it will start idles bad and i heard metal to metal contact. i am taking it to a shop to see how bad i messed it up. it is not road races fault i should have let a shop put it on and check all the vitals berfore i got on it.i put about 100miles on it that day using 20w 50 vri oil 93 octane with nos octane boost there was no warning temp was fine no smoking everything seemed perfect and the power was crazy. i did notice alot of lag you could hear the turbo start to spool about 3000 rpm but the car didn't start to pull till 4000 rpm and when the wastgate opens up it sounds awesome. iwill keep everybody posted on what the problem is
You should really start your own thread when you have different problems like that. $5 says you're rebuilding your engine if you keep the car.
Oh, either that or your compressor surged due to a problem with BoV (shifting at full boost) and your turbo is looks like a Cuisine Art. In that case you'd be lucky if parts of the compressor didn't make it into your engine.
Oh, either that or your compressor surged due to a problem with BoV (shifting at full boost) and your turbo is looks like a Cuisine Art. In that case you'd be lucky if parts of the compressor didn't make it into your engine.
when i first ran the car down the road i had a fuel line come off,don't ask. drove the car about two or three miles had no power due to no fuel pressure caused the car to run very lean.after the fuel line was fixed plenty of power. but the damage had already happened to the piston to running the car lean so say bye bye to the piston. by the way the car still runs so new forged pistons a little bit of labor and back to haveing fun.at the most 1500 to 2000 dollars.
well id say your lucky, but if you ran lean that means you heated it up, you might want to check your head, do a compression test to see if its the piston or vavle, if you dont know hwo to do it, go to a shop and ask them to do it, they can tell you by dropping oil into the cylinder to see if compression goes up or down (piston or valve) the onyl reason i say this is because i don't believe you could ruin a piston and still be operating the car, i GUESS if it only occured to one piston you might be able to operate, but if it was on two or more your looking at a significant loss of compression
as soon as you start the car it idle rough then after about 15 to 20 seconds you start to hear tapping sound that is when i turn off the car so it doesn't do any more damage. i hope it is only the piston or maybe a valve also the car has over 50,000 miles on it and hits red line daily, so i imagine the pistons or valves already had some wear to them. i will let you know as soon as i know.i don't think it had any thing to do with the bov or wastegate.



