Notices
Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

How does my turbo look?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 7, 2011 | 09:02 PM
  #16  
ryancb's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,659
Likes: 0
From: Federal Way,WA
Thats a lot of gauges man. Your call though. Oh and add 2 months to your expected finish date lol even with the best planing
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:14 AM
  #17  
jakermeister's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Colorado
I know its a lot but I'm getting the peak/warning gauges because the wife occasionally drives the car too. I'm going to start getting the manifold ready and wanted to know what to do before I try to bolt it up. I have the speed corps manifold and have read I need to drill out the bolt holes to the manifold that mount to the engine and work on the studs that mount to the turbo. Also, what part of the turbo would I need to grind down?

Thanks,
Jake
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:38 AM
  #18  
ryancb's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,659
Likes: 0
From: Federal Way,WA
I would read 03lances' thread. I believe he had a lot of pictures of it in there.
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #19  
03lances's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Why get a water temp? You already have one on your dash??? Your engine temp is actually a coolant temp gauge. As far as grinding the turbo goes there is a nub with a threaded hole in it you will not use and it hits the water pipe you have to grind that down pretty good. Also on the same side of the turbo below that nub is a flat spot. The corner of that might hit the bracket of that water pipe. I just yesterday pulled my coldside back off my car to clean everything up and noticed I didnt quite ground it down enough and was still slightly rubbing on the pipe so I shaved it down alot more. to make sure it wasnt going to rub this time. I have a nice gap there now

Reply
Old Sep 8, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #20  
jakermeister's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Colorado
A lot of turbo cars seem to run hot on the temp side and the wife doesn't pay attention to the gauges as much as I do and a warning would be nice I'm going to try and get the radiator hose away from the manifold as well when I install the water temp adapter. I see the grinded area THANKS. What about the turbo manifold holes that go to the engine? Which one(s) do I need to enlarge?
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2011 | 11:57 AM
  #21  
slatermvp's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,311
Likes: 0
From: sin city,ma
I wish I had taken a pic of the holes to make wider but I think it was the top right two and the bottom left one.
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #22  
jakermeister's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Colorado
With my build I'd like to sort of put a HOW TO TURBO YOUR CAR (evo 8/9) together. I've read just about every turbo thread I could. I can't wait to start
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2011 | 06:17 PM
  #23  
jakermeister's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Colorado
I got the studs off the hotside!! Does anyone remember if the manifold gasket that goes to then engine fit without problems? I see the holes on the manifold are off a little from the gasket. So if the gasket fits I just got to get the holes on the manifold to match with the gasket.
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2011 | 07:15 PM
  #24  
slatermvp's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,311
Likes: 0
From: sin city,ma
you gotta do the gasket as well
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2011 | 07:39 PM
  #25  
jakermeister's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Colorado
Damn that sucks. I guess I'll just work on the manifold holes when it comes time to mount it. I took a drill bit to the hole that's hard to get a screw in. Didn't take too much work but it fits nice. Everything is looking good I'm only worried about the oil tap right now. What type of bung should I put there? A male or female? I plan to have it welded in.
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2011 | 08:26 PM
  #26  
03lances's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
5/8" hose barb into the oil pan
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2011 | 09:13 PM
  #27  
jakermeister's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Colorado
So this bung with the 5/8" (1/2npt) barb would be fine?

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...teel+Weld+Bung
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2011 | 09:53 PM
  #28  
03lances's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
I imagine that would work just fine although I dont see why everyone thinks they need to weld a fitting into there oil pan. I just drilled and tapped threads into my pan then threaded in the barb fitting with some teflon tape and has been leak free for two years.
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #29  
jakermeister's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Colorado
The roads here can get ugly in the winter. I don't want to bottom out on some snow and have the fitting get ripped out or anything.
Reply
Old Sep 9, 2011 | 10:59 PM
  #30  
03lances's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Understandable. I will say though if you bottomed out hard enough to reach the upper pan im guessing by that point your lower pan will be shoved into your crank or close to lol.
Reply



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:14 PM.