Joining The FI Fleet - 03 ES
Joining The FI Fleet - 03 ES
Hey I figured I would start my build thread even though I won't be attacking it for another month or so. I am almost done gathering parts. Thanks to those of you on the forum that I have purchased parts from. I've had the car for a very long time and decided to go forward with the build. Hopefully I have read enough to get me through the build but I am sure there will be the little things that will nickle and dime my time during the build. Even though some of you have done it in a weekend I like to take my time and having my truck makes it easy to not have to worry about getting it all done quickly. Starting this thread should keep me on track as I will be taking pics along the way. Wish me luck! lol
Every build thread needs a parts list right? lol Let me know what I am missing 

| Evo 8 MAF |
| Spring Bolts |
| Exhaust Extention |
| Head Studs |
| WRX Injectors |
Last edited by UtahLuge; Mar 12, 2014 at 06:36 AM. Reason: Starting the Build
Looks like you got most everything you need....Might wanna look into getting a forge W/G with a 6psi spring from like SpeedCorps.com, unless your planning on boosting at evo levels right out of the gate. You should add an EVO 8 MAF to the list as well. You will thank yourself later for picking one up. Way more scaling abilities with it over our stock MAF's or you can just go to strait 4 BAR map sensor and do a speed density tune. Keep us updated as things move along. We are always welcome to new Lancer Modders here.
Great going. At least you have parts, some people say their going to do these big builds and no progress is ever made. Like Grinder said if you're an auto go ahead and get that maf or 4 bar for speed density. It's going to be hell trying to get fuel for 10 psi without it. Good luck with the build!
Thanks for the tip about the MAF. Yes, my lancer is an automatic. I have actually started part of the build by putting on my intercooler. It was my own little kick in the pants to get going on it lol Next I am going to port the evo manifold with pics
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Stationed at Fort Hood. Half my unit is going elsewhere but I havn't come down on orders so as far as I can see I will be sticking around. I will post up some pics after I get going on the manifold. It will consist of the porting and taping for the exhaust temp sensor.
Since yours is an Auto like many of our that have turbo'd, you might wanna consider relocating your battery to your trunk. Also, since you will need to upgrade the air metering, doing a 4-bar map sensor instead of an EVO maf frees a lot too. The maps for Speed Density on our cars are huge and make fine tuning the fuel curves so nice. Not to mention being able to delete the maf altogether. Heres what mine looks like.
Ya that is actually something I have already done. If I were to do it again I would have used 2GA audio cable instead of the 2GA from the hardware store. It wasn't hard at all but the audio cable would have made some of the bends on the way to the trunk easier. I also made sure to do it on the safe side and put a fuse under the hood and in the trunk.
any picks of that. As soon as I am able to I will be relocation the battery to my trunk on my car but I am hesitant due to the connections in the hood. Anyway you can take close up pics of that connection?
Here are the pics of the battery relocation.
Under the hood:
- The ground wire is the stock battery terminal with the round part that goes around the terminal broke off. I then drilled a hole through it for bolting it down.
- I added a wire from my ground point to the driver side of the block.
- The fuse holder I was able to use one of the pre-made holes but then drilled a second hole in the middle of the fuse holder to keep it from moving around.
- Self-tap screws work great for securing the fuse holder down to the stock bracket.
- All POSITIVE wires were bent, twisted, etc to fit into the fuse block.
- In the pic you can see I had to remove some of the plastic as one of the stock battery pieces is an L shape.
- Zip tie around the fuse holder cover for safety as the little plastic tabs would most likely not hold the top on.
- It came with 100 amp fuses but I upgraded to 200 amp.
In the trunk:
- Drilling my car doesn't bother me so I brought the wire up in front of the spare tire. If I did it again I would have brought it up more to the passenger side.
- Currently I just have the bottom bracket bolted to the car. I do have a battery box which I will swap out at some time.
- A couple small screws hold the rear fuse holder in place which was also upgraded to a 200 amp fuse.
- Ground was made almost directly under the bracket to the large bolts at that location.
Notes:
- I tried using some cheap fold-over style ends for connecting to the fuse holders = fail. It likes to come loose. Get the kind that you slide into and hammer the crimp. Much much better.
- A drill and variety of bits needed.
- Use 2GA audio cable instead of hardware store 2GA. Audio stuff is more flexible.
- A cleaner trunk look would be to take the wire all the way to the bumper and drill through on rear side of trunk.
Under the hood:
- The ground wire is the stock battery terminal with the round part that goes around the terminal broke off. I then drilled a hole through it for bolting it down.
- I added a wire from my ground point to the driver side of the block.
- The fuse holder I was able to use one of the pre-made holes but then drilled a second hole in the middle of the fuse holder to keep it from moving around.
- Self-tap screws work great for securing the fuse holder down to the stock bracket.
- All POSITIVE wires were bent, twisted, etc to fit into the fuse block.
- In the pic you can see I had to remove some of the plastic as one of the stock battery pieces is an L shape.
- Zip tie around the fuse holder cover for safety as the little plastic tabs would most likely not hold the top on.
- It came with 100 amp fuses but I upgraded to 200 amp.
In the trunk:
- Drilling my car doesn't bother me so I brought the wire up in front of the spare tire. If I did it again I would have brought it up more to the passenger side.
- Currently I just have the bottom bracket bolted to the car. I do have a battery box which I will swap out at some time.
- A couple small screws hold the rear fuse holder in place which was also upgraded to a 200 amp fuse.
- Ground was made almost directly under the bracket to the large bolts at that location.
Notes:
- I tried using some cheap fold-over style ends for connecting to the fuse holders = fail. It likes to come loose. Get the kind that you slide into and hammer the crimp. Much much better.
- A drill and variety of bits needed.
- Use 2GA audio cable instead of hardware store 2GA. Audio stuff is more flexible.
- A cleaner trunk look would be to take the wire all the way to the bumper and drill through on rear side of trunk.
Looks good....did mine pretty much the same way. Only difference is I mounted mine near the front end of my trunk up against where the back seats fold down. Running the Positive line, I just fed it right out the bottom of the engine bay, following the hard brake lines, zip tying along the way.
Ya its been a year from my last post on here but some things came up to include a broken timing belt, etc etc. I am glad to have taken care of those before doing the turbo install though. Even though these pics can be found kind of often on here I figured I would post up some of what I took just in case someone needs it.
Here is a few of the prep work I did. The tow bar I put on paid for itself when the timing belt broke. Instead of paying for a tow from about 20 miles from my house I just had my wife bring the truck and towed it back
That pic does show where I mounted the intercooler though. Bolted through the cross-member.
Here is a few of the prep work I did. The tow bar I put on paid for itself when the timing belt broke. Instead of paying for a tow from about 20 miles from my house I just had my wife bring the truck and towed it back
That pic does show where I mounted the intercooler though. Bolted through the cross-member.


