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steven121 Jan 2, 2010 03:45 PM

02 Lancer ES Turbo Project
 
21 Attachment(s)
I Officially started collecting turbo parts for my car since last November of 2009, It all started with youtube looking for bolt on kits and wanting to go faster and have a meaner car, and of course going to local meets. But after spending months learning about turbocharging and installation I have officially completed the build and installment on July 2, 2010 "when I was able to drive the car home and not have any problems stalling on the highway lol"

Here is my Baby
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...M0013-Copy.jpg
Stock Interior
Attachment 311845
Stock Engine
Attachment 311846
Turbo Parts
Attachment 311847

Attachment 311848

Attachment 311849
Full Straight Pipe Magnaflow Exhaust
Attachment 311850

Attachment 311851

Attachment 311852
Installed Gauges, AEM wideband, Prosport boost gauge, Prosport EGT gauge
Attachment 311853
Took me 10 days to finish the turbo project "time worth spent"
Attachment 311854

Attachment 311855

Attachment 311856

Attachment 311857

Attachment 311858

Attachment 311859

Turbo Completed

Attachment 311860

Attachment 311861

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2..._/IMAG0029.jpg

Attachment 311862

Attachment 311863

Attachment 311864

And the Finale
Attachment 311865

FUTURE PLANS
I have a new project coming this spring for my 22nd Birthday in March

1.)Im buying Zulus motor thats rated at 400 hp + motor mounts

2.)Turbo Decision - FP white rated to 350+ hp which is pretty much my goal

3.) Buying a Aem Fuel Pressure Regulator + Evo 8 fuel rail

4.) Buying an evo 8/9 Throttle body

5.) Buying a small Motorcycle Battery to put in my car "odessy p680t"

6.) Full Interior swap - Except flooring and dashboard

7.)Doing an evo 8 front conversion

8.) Getting rims as well heres a link http://www.kdperformance.com/Fabrica...brl_grande.jpg
there going to be all black.

9.) Stage 3 racing clutch - ACT Heavy Duty Clutch Kit Mitsubishi Lancer ES/LS/OZ (2002-2005) MB8-HDR4

GOAL IS TO HIT 350-375 HP, Majority of the engine work should be completed by March, everything else aiming towards late August-September

Total probably spent - 4500

Demon_ni2 Jan 2, 2010 04:48 PM

keep it up and you will have all your parts you need!

OZ Rally Jan 2, 2010 06:01 PM

Demon has 440's for sale and I have a stock Evo 8 downpipe that will go perfect with that setup.
Goodluck with the build!

link62 Jan 2, 2010 07:27 PM

you all so need to get a forge adjustable wastegate actuator and a 7- 10 lb spring http://stores.speedcorps.com/-strse-...Categories.bok
they sell both the spring and actuator

steven121 Jan 2, 2010 07:32 PM


Originally Posted by OZ Rally (Post 7850212)
Demon has 440's for sale and I have a stock Evo 8 downpipe that will go perfect with that setup.
Goodluck with the build!

really if you guys can hold those parts for me for about a week and a half I will have the money to buy them from you!!! that would help alot

Demon_ni2 Jan 2, 2010 07:37 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7850384)
really if you guys can hold those parts for me for about a week and a half I will have the money to buy them from you!!! that would help alot

my for sale thread is in my signature. u can pm me whever.. if i have them still by then you can buy them!

steven121 Jan 2, 2010 08:16 PM


Originally Posted by link62 (Post 7850372)
you all so need to get a forge adjustable wastegate actuator and a 7- 10 lb spring http://stores.speedcorps.com/-strse-...Categories.bok
they sell both the spring and actuator


sounds good man just added it to the list

crf inc. Jan 2, 2010 11:01 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7850470)
sounds good man just added it to the list

not trying to hate on demons sale or anything but i just got my wrx 440cc injectors for $60 shipped with 30,000 miles on them.. you should search around on some subaru forums.. check out NASIOC.com. thats where i found mine.. i got like 7 or 8 offers for under $100.

steven121 Jan 3, 2010 12:02 AM


Originally Posted by crf inc. (Post 7850716)
not trying to hate on demons sale or anything but i just got my wrx 440cc injectors for $60 shipped with 30,000 miles on them.. you should search around on some subaru forums.. check out NASIOC.com. thats where i found mine.. i got like 7 or 8 offers for under $100.

thats really good, I find them brand new for like 320 but I don't want to pay that much. I will look into that site!!!

03lances Jan 3, 2010 01:49 AM

Dont get a stock evo 8 bov they are plastic garbage go with evo 9 bov (metal) or greddy, GL with your build man {thumbup}

03lances Jan 3, 2010 01:51 AM


Originally Posted by crf inc. (Post 7850716)
not trying to hate on demons sale or anything but i just got my wrx 440cc injectors for $60 shipped with 30,000 miles on them.. you should search around on some subaru forums.. check out NASIOC.com. thats where i found mine.. i got like 7 or 8 offers for under $100.

paid $50 shipped for mine mint cond :D

Wewocadet Jan 3, 2010 02:09 AM

Hey guys I have a question. I have an 04 lancer es and was wondering if it's worth it to drop a turbo in it or to buy an evo IX an install a bigger turbo. Thanks I'm kinda in between

Demon_ni2 Jan 3, 2010 07:16 AM

if u have the money get a evo, get one, lancer isnt easy to build, and not many people do it right either... i would have gotten a evo a long time ago. but ive put to much money into my lancer, no point in getting rid of it now. parts r very expensive for evos, i know my motors have all cost me under 300$ eery time i blow up. evo motors, trans, and tcase are all close to 2k a piece.

Demon_ni2 Jan 3, 2010 07:19 AM


Originally Posted by crf inc. (Post 7850716)
not trying to hate on demons sale or anything but i just got my wrx 440cc injectors for $60 shipped with 30,000 miles on them.. you should search around on some subaru forums.. check out NASIOC.com. thats where i found mine.. i got like 7 or 8 offers for under $100.

i bought mine brand new from subaru, cost was actually about 380 sometimes with tax. they have a little under 10k miles on them.

steven121 Jan 4, 2010 12:48 PM

well I found an evo 8 downpipe that im about to purchase hopefully for $65 its still in good condition.

also about the manifold should I just buy the megan manifold and drill out the holes in the flange like incrphish did? Or should I just use the 4g94 flange and weld it on a manifold and port out the runners to match the flange?

depending on the option will determine when i will buy it

Wewocadet Jan 4, 2010 10:47 PM

Hey gguys I have an 04 lancer es that imma put a t25 turbo kit in from turbokits.com. Does this look like a good kit? I'm not going for track times but as a daily driver. Also would I have tranny problems cuz there would be so much torque? And should I spen the extra money to buy a dual bb turbo?
Thanks

steven121 Jan 4, 2010 10:54 PM

OK guys another update, I just bought a evo 8 downpipe for $65.00 off ebay, then I bought the 12mm -4an bolt for $20.00 "couldnt find it anywhere so whatever". Then I just purchased the sandwhich adapter for $57 and last the oil return flange for $12.00.

I pretty much knocked off most of the cheap stuff out the way. Now when my tax return comes back then I will start buying the expensive stuff!!!

Wewocadet Jan 4, 2010 10:57 PM

So I have decided to strt a project on my lancer an that. Will drop a turbo in it. I wa looking at a complete kit fromturbokits.com with a t25 turbo. I would get the dual bb upgrade. Is this a good reliable kit for a daily driver? I'm jus lookin for more oomph not track times. Thanks guys all input is appreciated

steven121 Jan 4, 2010 10:59 PM


Originally Posted by Wewocadet (Post 7856541)
So I have decided to strt a project on my lancer an that. Will drop a turbo in it. I wa looking at a complete kit fromturbokits.com with a t25 turbo. I would get the dual bb upgrade. Is this a good reliable kit for a daily driver? I'm jus lookin for more oomph not track times. Thanks guys all input is appreciated

hold on let me look at ur kit

steven121 Jan 4, 2010 11:07 PM


Originally Posted by Wewocadet (Post 7856541)
So I have decided to strt a project on my lancer an that. Will drop a turbo in it. I wa looking at a complete kit fromturbokits.com with a t25 turbo. I would get the dual bb upgrade. Is this a good reliable kit for a daily driver? I'm jus lookin for more oomph not track times. Thanks guys all input is appreciated

ok personnally I wouldn't buy a kit cost to much for me thats my only concern. from what I remember is the t-25 is smaller than the 16G turbo "this is what I want to use. I did a quick search on that turbo and got this "The stock T25 turbo is pretty much maxed out at 220-250 wheel horsepower. The EVO III 16G turbo maxes out in the 320-340 wheel horsepower range

So as I mentioned before kits are good in one way "YOU JUST HAVE ALL THE PARTS" dude if I were you I would do some research on custom kits it can save you alot of money if you do it the right way.

also Im not putting down the turbo sure you will get some great acceleration but you hp is limited because of the size

Wewocadet Jan 4, 2010 11:13 PM

Ok I was lookin at it cuz it has all the parts. I get kinda confused on the down pipes, turbo manifolds, bovs, all that stuff. Any suggestions of websites that can either explain or where I can get parts? Thanks a lot

Wewocadet Jan 4, 2010 11:16 PM

Or can you buy this kit an upgrade to a better turbo later?

Wewocadet Jan 4, 2010 11:36 PM

Do I still need a down pipe if I have racing headers with catback exhaust. I have no cats on btw.

Wewocadet Jan 4, 2010 11:48 PM

I found a 16g turbo kit here. Is this better? Is there anything else I would need like turbo timers? Sorry guys I'm lookin but rather ask an be safe. :-) thanks guys! I'm learning a lot here

03lances Jan 4, 2010 11:48 PM


Originally Posted by Wewocadet (Post 7856559)
Ok I was lookin at it cuz it has all the parts. I get kinda confused on the down pipes, turbo manifolds, bovs, all that stuff. Any suggestions of websites that can either explain or where I can get parts? Thanks a lot

You on it my friend the evom lancer FI forum is THE best source for what you wanna do


Originally Posted by Wewocadet (Post 7856563)
Or can you buy this kit an upgrade to a better turbo later?

Yes you can upgrade later but why? When you change a turbo you have to do more than just change the turbo you have to change the header, the downpipe, possibly change the oil feed and return lines, possibly add or remove the coolant lines, change intercooler lines possibly, basically everything that connects to the turbo (which there is alot) will possibly need changed depending on what you have and what you upgrade to.


Originally Posted by Wewocadet (Post 7856595)
Do I still need a down pipe if I have racing headers with catback exhaust. I have no cats on btw.

Yes your downpipe will most likely not mount up to a turbo 02 housing

Wewocadet Jan 4, 2010 11:48 PM

http://*********.vstore.ca/product_i...e/lancer-turbo
sorry forget link

Wewocadet Jan 4, 2010 11:50 PM

Ok I didn't realize I had to change all that. Thanks so imma go with a 16g turbo

03lances Jan 4, 2010 11:50 PM

Turbo timer isnt neccessary but nice to have. All this does is keep your engine idling for a set amount of time so the turbo can cool down with the oil flowing through is because if you shut it off after a hard run and the turbo is still scorching hot you will begin to basically cook the oil in it since it stops flowing and that can cause some major turbo issues

Wewocadet Jan 4, 2010 11:56 PM

Ok thanks a lot. I am gonna do a lot more checking into then before buying a full blown kit and get laughed at cuz it sux lol. All suggestions are welcomed ESP good sites

03lances Jan 5, 2010 12:00 AM

You can read my thread in my sig it has tons of useful info. Everything I have learned (no exaggeration) EVERYTHING I found here on evom. At the begining of last year I thought a Blow off valve and wastegate were different names for the same thing and open loop thresholds? Psssh whats that? lol now I am self tuning the kit I self built and self installed and lemme tell you my car hauls now.

Wewocadet Jan 5, 2010 12:17 AM

Dude ate my new hero lol thanks a lot

Wewocadet Jan 5, 2010 12:18 AM

You are my new hero.....stupid iPhone auto corrects

Wewocadet Jan 5, 2010 12:30 AM

What exactly does this mean? safc/emanage/standalone. I was told I need these for a turbo?

steven121 Jan 5, 2010 02:32 PM

hey guys need more help on 2 things.

1.) How do I connect the coolant lines to my turbo? "TD05HR 16G 9.8" and what size tees do I need to tee off the coolant line "I saw it on a picture"

2.) The Manifold. should I Drill out the holes in the flange to fit my engine, or should I just weld a G94 flange to the on the manifold drill out the runner holes, and widen the runners to match my engine exhast holes?

Demon_ni2 Jan 5, 2010 03:09 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7858567)
hey guys need more help on 2 things.

1.) How do I connect the coolant lines to my turbo? "TD05HR 16G 9.8" and what size tees do I need to tee off the coolant line "I saw it on a picture"

2.) The Manifold. should I Drill out the holes in the flange to fit my engine, or should I just weld a G94 flange to the on the manifold drill out the runner holes, and widen the runners to match my engine exhast holes?



1.) Easy. u have 2 coolant lines going to and from the heater core lines to the throttle body. u can divert the two lines going to the throttle body to the turbo. your in TX.. u dont need coolant lines heating your throttle body.. what size line? hrmm.. i think its about a -6an line. but u could just pull off those two lines and go to autozone and get something similiar size. u need need atleast a 1ply line, autoparts stores carry the correct type of hose, and they will cut the length(i would assume about 6 feet would be needed and also 4 clamps)

2.) umm.. really either way works. but to insure a good seal with the gasket u should have the flange welded on over it, i dont suggest cutting off the old flange, that pipe on those megan manifolds r very thin.. runners are close enough to each other that u dont have to widen the runners.. the runners on the turbo manifold are alot larger then the exhaust ports on the 4g94 head, so u shouldnt be hindering the flow much at all with the runners being slightly off..
but i would suggest welding. u would still need to drill out the holes threw the flange.. and im sure putting bolts on the head might be difficult with a thick flange(i think other had that problem)

if u can cut back the flange, without cutting the pipe and still connect the two flanges for the bolts, that would be ideal i think. still a big flange, but then u would only have the thickness of one flange where u put your bolts on, and im sure it would be easy to weld up that way also.

excuse any typos or any sentences that might not make sense.. i didnt read over anything i wrote. but all is accurate.

steven121 Jan 5, 2010 08:35 PM


Originally Posted by Demon_ni2 (Post 7858664)
1.) Easy. u have 2 coolant lines going to and from the heater core lines to the throttle body. u can divert the two lines going to the throttle body to the turbo. your in TX.. u dont need coolant lines heating your throttle body.. what size line? hrmm.. i think its about a -6an line. but u could just pull off those two lines and go to autozone and get something similiar size. u need need atleast a 1ply line, autoparts stores carry the correct type of hose, and they will cut the length(i would assume about 6 feet would be needed and also 4 clamps)

2.) umm.. really either way works. but to insure a good seal with the gasket u should have the flange welded on over it, i dont suggest cutting off the old flange, that pipe on those megan manifolds r very thin.. runners are close enough to each other that u dont have to widen the runners.. the runners on the turbo manifold are alot larger then the exhaust ports on the 4g94 head, so u shouldnt be hindering the flow much at all with the runners being slightly off..
but i would suggest welding. u would still need to drill out the holes threw the flange.. and im sure putting bolts on the head might be difficult with a thick flange(i think other had that problem)

if u can cut back the flange, without cutting the pipe and still connect the two flanges for the bolts, that would be ideal i think. still a big flange, but then u would only have the thickness of one flange where u put your bolts on, and im sure it would be easy to weld up that way also.

excuse any typos or any sentences that might not make sense.. i didnt read over anything i wrote. but all is accurate.


ok I got the manifold part down, but Im a little confused on the coolant lines.

Is it possible you can show me a pick of how to set it up? I lol I know what the throttle body is but I was just confused on the heater core. If you can show me pics I will know exactly what you mean. Thanks for your help man.

Oh yeah I just read more stuff sorry ok the heater core I might need to keep the lines on because he weather down here changes alot and during the winter it ges really cold one day the warm then it will be cold for a week then warm for one day. so bascially how can I keep the heater core lines on the throttle body and divert them to the turbo?

link62 Jan 5, 2010 10:30 PM

1 Attachment(s)
i have a megan manifold with a 94 flange welded on the 63 flange all you need to do is port out the outside runners a lil bit and if any on the inside ones, and redrill out the holes and yea its hard to get it in there since its way thicker and when you do this you must get larger studs i think i went with 50mm ( just need the the inside ones,7 if i remember, you could if you want get larger ones for the out side but the stock ones worked for me) and this is what makes it hard cause of the one stud closest to the power steering ( arrow) but you just need to take two bolts holding it( red circle) in a pry it a lil and you can get it in with a lil bit of wiggling it in there
Attachment 311866
and bracing the manifold is a good idea lucky for me i got one that had it done already and so far no cracking and i even have it wrapped

Demon_ni2 Jan 6, 2010 06:40 AM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7859677)
ok I got the manifold part down, but Im a little confused on the coolant lines.

Is it possible you can show me a pick of how to set it up? I lol I know what the throttle body is but I was just confused on the heater core. If you can show me pics I will know exactly what you mean. Thanks for your help man.

Oh yeah I just read more stuff sorry ok the heater core I might need to keep the lines on because he weather down here changes alot and during the winter it ges really cold one day the warm then it will be cold for a week then warm for one day. so bascially how can I keep the heater core lines on the throttle body and divert them to the turbo?

just look at your trottle body, there are two coolant lines that go to the bottom of it. there like, 6 inches long each. heater core lines go to the firewall.


if u have a hard time locating stuff because u dont know what it is u might need to call a few buddies to help u with your install. its all very simple stuff.

Demon_ni2 Jan 6, 2010 06:41 AM


Originally Posted by link62 (Post 7859939)

clean your motor link!!! Ewwwwww

Sicktght311 Jan 6, 2010 08:09 AM


Originally Posted by Wewocadet (Post 7856619)
Ok thanks a lot. I am gonna do a lot more checking into then before buying a full blown kit and get laughed at cuz it sux lol. All suggestions are welcomed ESP good sites

OK, i've gotta chime in here. You need a lot more time before you buy that turbo. Do yourself a favor and start searching this forum about the "TSI turbo kit". Thats the kit from turbokits.com. In fact, theres a sticky on the top of this page that i wrote a long time ago detailing that kit and what you'll need. Its a good kit, i ran a custom version of it for a while, but it does need modification. If you want something thats just gonna bolt on with instructions and limited work, go for Road Race's 16g kit. a T25/28 is fine for goals under 250hp (the lancer can only reach 230ish anyway without engine modification). 16g just flows better.

EDIT - and as for transmission work. The stock clutch can only handle so much. It will need to be replaced soon after you boost. Mine held up at 6psi for 3-4 months, then i bumped up to 7psi and within a month it was slipping. By the end of the 2nd month at 7psi i couldnt even put more than 50% throttle in 1st or 2nd gear.

link62 Jan 6, 2010 09:45 AM


Originally Posted by Demon_ni2 (Post 7860519)
clean your motor link!!! Ewwwwww

lol it was worse when i got the car but i slowly been cleaning it but i might do what all the cool kids do and just get a new motor lol{thumbup}

steven121 Jan 7, 2010 12:03 PM

Update!!!
 
3 Attachment(s)
ok guys just another update I finally completed the oil system to the turbo took a long time. But im still waiting on a couple parts to arrive "t3/t4 oil return flange" and my stock evo 8 downpipe"

here are some picsof the parts I got. when I get the evo 8 downpipe does it need to be modified to fi the housing I have "megan 03 housing"?

oil return and feed
Attachment 311867

oil feed sandwhich adapter
Attachment 311868

the gold piece is the oil feed
Attachment 311869

steven121 Jan 7, 2010 12:05 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Demon_ni2 (Post 7860516)
just look at your trottle body, there are two coolant lines that go to the bottom of it. there like, 6 inches long each. heater core lines go to the firewall.


if u have a hard time locating stuff because u dont know what it is u might need to call a few buddies to help u with your install. its all very simple stuff.

do you mean these two hoses?

and if so do I tee them off, buy two more lines and coonect them to the feed and return? and which hose goes to the return and feed part of the turbo?

Attachment 311870

Attachment 311871

Demon_ni2 Jan 7, 2010 12:36 PM


Originally Posted by link62 (Post 7861148)
lol it was worse when i got the car but i slowly been cleaning it but i might do what all the cool kids do and just get a new motor lol{thumbup}

lol.. ya.. i hate being in that club.. LOL

but seriouslly.. go get like.. 3 bottles of brake cleaner. and a bottle or two of engine degreaser(the foam stuff) and some purple power. start sprayin everything.. wash it off.. respray and get a brush into anywhere u can.. and rinse again..
purple power really is the best at engine stuff.. just keep it away from stuff with pain unless u plan on rubbin and rinsing pretty quick.

my new motor is.. well lets just say its clean enough to lick.. ill be repainting it next week. so it looks freakin perfect. ill have it back from psi tuesday.. so we will see how stuf starts to pan out with my car :) fresh painted and built motor. new custom valve cover, new custom intake manifold, turbo manifold, bigger turbo, custom intercooling pipes.. its gunna be HOT! oh.. and a super wiretuck also.. ive been workin on that for a little while now..

clean engine goes a long way! (also helps to show any problems quicker if u have a bad seal or something.)

Demon_ni2 Jan 7, 2010 12:38 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7865399)
do you mean these two hoses?

and if so do I tee them off, buy two more lines and coonect them to the feed and return? and which hose goes to the return and feed part of the turbo?

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...02806-Copy.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2..._/DSC02803.jpg

yes those two hoses, just take them off, u dont need your tb to been warmed by coolant. and run them to the sides of the turbo.

steven121 Jan 7, 2010 04:39 PM


Originally Posted by Demon_ni2 (Post 7865502)
yes those two hoses, just take them off, u dont need your tb to been warmed by coolant. and run them to the sides of the turbo.


ok gotcha which one is the return and which one is the feed? or does it matter

Sicktght311 Jan 7, 2010 05:46 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7866321)
ok gotcha which one is the return and which one is the feed? or does it matter

Tap into the heater core lines. That way you know you have a solid full feed of coolant. Thats what i did and it took 30 seconds. Just get a T fitting, cut the two heater core lines, T into them, then run lines to the turbo. Simple as pie.

Demon_ni2 Jan 7, 2010 05:48 PM


Originally Posted by Sicktght311 (Post 7866547)
Tap into the heater core lines. That way you know you have a solid full feed of coolant. Thats what i did and it took 30 seconds. Just get a T fitting, cut the two heater core lines, T into them, then run lines to the turbo. Simple as pie.

thats what hes already doing with using the TB lines. they come straight from the heatercore lines

steven121 Jan 7, 2010 07:22 PM


Originally Posted by Demon_ni2 (Post 7866551)
thats what hes already doing with using the TB lines. they come straight from the heatercore lines

im just going to tee off the lines its no big, I just need to know what size T do I need and which lines are the feed and return and that will solve my coolant problem and understanding

senate6268 Jan 7, 2010 08:33 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7866860)
im just going to tee off the lines its no big, I just need to know what size T do I need and which lines are the feed and return and that will solve my coolant problem and understanding

It's better if you integrate the turbo's coolant lines into the coolant system than if you just tee them into it. Remove one of the lines going from the coolant pipe to the throttle body. Then run a line from the throttle body to the coolant inlet fitting on the turbo and run a line back from the coolant outlet fitting to the coolant pipe.

link62 Jan 7, 2010 09:18 PM


Originally Posted by senate6268 (Post 7867060)
It's better if you integrate the turbo's coolant lines into the coolant system than if you just tee them into it. Remove one of the lines going from the coolant pipe to the throttle body. Then run a line from the throttle body to the coolant inlet fitting on the turbo and run a line back from the coolant outlet fitting to the coolant pipe.

^this is what i did a lot better then having to tee in to them

Demon_ni2 Jan 7, 2010 09:23 PM


Originally Posted by link62 (Post 7867193)
^this is what i did a lot better then having to tee in to them

i dont even suggest T'in into them.. just reroute them all together. if your not in the north u really dont need the throttle body to be heated at all. (and hes in Tx)

but whatever works. water is water as long as its got flow to it. :(

steven121 Jan 7, 2010 10:28 PM


Originally Posted by Demon_ni2 (Post 7867200)
i dont even suggest T'in into them.. just reroute them all together. if your not in the north u really dont need the throttle body to be heated at all. (and hes in Tx)

but whatever works. water is water as long as its got flow to it. :(

hey anyones opinion matters to me I understand what you mean bro {thumbup}

im just nervous about the winters down here just because they change so frequently super cold one day and super hot the next its unpredictable. But hey you helped me find the coolant lines and I appreciate that I didnt even know where they were at. lol

oh yeah which line is which? still trying to figure out under the throttle body which line is the return and which line is the feed?

Also does anyone know where to find a 16G 9.8T oil return flange? need one about 5/8ths of an inch I will buy one new or used asap!!!

Demon_ni2 Jan 7, 2010 11:28 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7867330)
hey anyones opinion matters to me I understand what you mean bro {thumbup}

im just nervous about the winters down here just because they change so frequently super cold one day and super hot the next its unpredictable. But hey you helped me find the coolant lines and I appreciate that I didnt even know where they were at. lol

oh yeah which line is which? still trying to figure out under the throttle body which line is the return and which line is the feed?

Also does anyone know where to find a 16G 9.8T oil return flange? need one about 5/8ths of an inch I will buy one new or used asap!!!

water lines really dont matter which way you route them.
oil return just get any evo oil return kit. u will have to cut the J pipe thing in half because its to long.
(any evo that has upgraded to a bigger turbo will no longer use there oil return line, so message a few people with forsale threads, see if they have an extra laying around for the oil return line)
if i remember right it was like a 30$ part form mitsubshi with we bought it for my buddies lancer we did a 16g setup on. (not 100% sure on that price) but we only used one piece from the kit, and we cut it in half..

steven121 Jan 13, 2010 04:53 PM

oil return flange
 
ok will this flange fit for my oil return on the evo 8 turbo? Its the flange part and thats all I need to finish the return part

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

OZ Rally Jan 13, 2010 05:25 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7884809)
ok will this flange fit for my oil return on the evo 8 turbo? Its the flange part and thats all I need to finish the return part

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Yes it looks like it will work. I'm using one from a t25 and have no problems at all.

steven121 Jan 13, 2010 08:13 PM


Originally Posted by OZ Rally (Post 7884920)
Yes it looks like it will work. I'm using one from a t25 and have no problems at all.

thanks bro

Tnastyevo8 Jan 13, 2010 08:18 PM

goodluck with the build

steven121 Jan 13, 2010 11:01 PM


Originally Posted by Tnastyevo8 (Post 7885496)
goodluck with the build

thanks man.

hey does anyone know what brand of gauges should I get for the following? I want to use the three pillar gauge becuase I think it looks sweet.

Boost gauge -
EGT Guage -
Wideband -
Oil Pressure Guage -

I just don't want to get some cheap crap gauges or really expensive gauges.

Or is anyone selling thier gauges that I could possible buy from them?

link62 Jan 13, 2010 11:16 PM

wideband i say go for aem you can look in the evo for sales their are usually some up for sale on there
and for the others i have prosport gauges so you should look in to them

steven121 Jan 13, 2010 11:27 PM


Originally Posted by link62 (Post 7885882)
wideband i say go for aem you can look in the evo for sales their are usually some up for sale on there
and for the others i have prosport gauges so you should look in to them

sweet man I wanted to go with all AEM but those gauges are so much. But the AEM wide band I was definitely going to go with.

oznoobfabber Jan 14, 2010 05:41 AM

i will second on the prosports i helped a buddy install some and they were retard easy with the directions that came with..... and even though i could care less they look way clean....{thumbup}

oznoobfabber Jan 14, 2010 05:49 AM

i will second on the prosports i helped a buddy install some and they were retard easy with the directions that came with..... and even though i could care less they look way clean....{thumbup}

steven121 Jan 15, 2010 09:26 PM

3 Attachment(s)
ok guys got an update now, just got my downpipe in the mail after waiting a week and a half :( but now its here, I tested it on my megan 02 housing for my turbo. honest to god I didnt think it was going to fit but it did!!! :D

Oh yeah and I got the down pipe for $65.00 I saved a ton!!! here are some pics

Attachment 311872

Attachment 311873

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2..._/DSC02836.jpg

OH YEAH SAVING MONEY!!! lol

Attachment 311874

Hey guys just another thing do I have to modify my evo 8 down pipe so it can fit from the housing to the exhaust connector? and if so what do I need to do?

ThunderOZ Jan 15, 2010 11:35 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7892541)

Hey guys just another thing do I have to modify my evo 8 down pipe so it can fit from the housing to the exhaust connector? and if so what do I need to do?

Do you mean from the O2 housing to the dp or from the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust?

steven121 Jan 16, 2010 01:02 AM


Originally Posted by ThunderOZ (Post 7892710)
Do you mean from the O2 housing to the dp or from the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust?

well i know the o2 housing connects just fine, but will it reach the rest of the exhaust or do I need to cut the pipe and make it longer to reach the rest of the exhaust?

Demon_ni2 Jan 16, 2010 06:35 AM

u need to cut just after the flange and extend it about 4-6 inches. so it goes under the motor

steven121 Jan 16, 2010 02:34 PM


Originally Posted by Demon_ni2 (Post 7893017)
u need to cut just after the flange and extend it about 4-6 inches. so it goes under the motor

Which one the o2 housing or the connection to the exhaust?

ThunderOZ Jan 17, 2010 01:14 AM

From the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust.

steven121 Jan 17, 2010 04:05 PM


Originally Posted by ThunderOZ (Post 7895094)
From the downpipe to the rest of the exhaust.

alright thanks man!!!

Wewocadet Jan 17, 2010 06:55 PM

nice lookin build here

steven121 Jan 18, 2010 01:27 PM

ok guys I have another question about the ecu. I know I have to use ecu flash but im worried about screwing something up so here are my questions

1.) is it easy to use and download
2.) if I feel like I can't reflash my ecu does someone with the same setup want to do it for me for some cash?
3.) when using the 440 cc injectors and flashing my ecu, my FMU is the flashed ecu correct? I called a place called triworks and he said I need an fmu? so I want to double check before installing my turbo in my car.

thanks

crf inc. Jan 18, 2010 03:57 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7899134)
ok guys I have another question about the ecu. I know I have to use ecu flash but im worried about screwing something up so here are my questions

1.) is it easy to use and download
2.) if I feel like I can't reflash my ecu does someone with the same setup want to do it for me for some cash?
3.) when using the 440 cc injectors and flashing my ecu, my FMU is the flashed ecu correct? I called a place called triworks and he said I need an fmu? so I want to double check before installing my turbo in my car.

thanks

you do not need a fmu if your running 440's. your already gonna be running rich just from the 440's so you need to do the ecuflash so that you can tune them down.. 440cc is way too much fuel.. i think we only require about 330cc when running a turbo.. ecuflash is not easy to use.. you have to know what your doing.. but you can download you stock ecu settings from your car and save them to your computer in case you need to switch it back to stock...

steven121 Jan 19, 2010 02:13 AM


Originally Posted by crf inc. (Post 7899700)
you do not need a fmu if your running 440's. your already gonna be running rich just from the 440's so you need to do the ecuflash so that you can tune them down.. 440cc is way too much fuel.. i think we only require about 330cc when running a turbo.. ecuflash is not easy to use.. you have to know what your doing.. but you can download you stock ecu settings from your car and save them to your computer in case you need to switch it back to stock...


ok sounds good, or do you think someone will give me there tuned settings to download onto my ecu to make it easier? I don't know much about tuning but I would like to learn so Im not bothering everyone with these questions. Oh yeah where do you download ecu flash?

crf inc. Jan 19, 2010 04:30 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7901074)
ok sounds good, or do you think someone will give me there tuned settings to download onto my ecu to make it easier? I don't know much about tuning but I would like to learn so Im not bothering everyone with these questions. Oh yeah where do you download ecu flash?

well the problem with that is that not everyones turbo set up is not the same. people run different components like bigger or smaller turbos, wastegates and stuff like that.. plus every car is different.. a flash that works good on one persons car doen not always work on another persons car.. and then theres the issue of someone giving away theyre hard work for free... people usually dont like todo that.. but if you can get someone to help you flash your car for a lil cash than thats always a plus..

heres the site you need to download EcuFlash

http://www.openecu.org/index.php?title=EcuFlash

best of luck with your build

ClixT Jan 19, 2010 05:01 PM


Originally Posted by crf inc. (Post 7903680)
well the problem with that is that not everyones turbo set up is not the same. people run different components like bigger or smaller turbos, wastegates and stuff like that.. plus every car is different.. a flash that works good on one persons car doen not always work on another persons car.. and then theres the issue of someone giving away theyre hard work for free... people usually dont like todo that.. but if you can get someone to help you flash your car for a lil cash than thats always a plus..

heres the site you need to download EcuFlash

http://www.openecu.org/index.php?title=EcuFlash

best of luck with your build

+1. man.

i suggest go get some books about EFI, and tuning. {thumbup}

steven121 Jan 19, 2010 05:10 PM


Originally Posted by crf inc. (Post 7903680)
well the problem with that is that not everyones turbo set up is not the same. people run different components like bigger or smaller turbos, wastegates and stuff like that.. plus every car is different.. a flash that works good on one persons car doen not always work on another persons car.. and then theres the issue of someone giving away theyre hard work for free... people usually dont like todo that.. but if you can get someone to help you flash your car for a lil cash than thats always a plus..

heres the site you need to download EcuFlash

http://www.openecu.org/index.php?title=EcuFlash

best of luck with your build

well yeah I don't mind paying at all its not a big deal, i just can't find a place that will use ecu flash and tune my car which pisses me off because dallas is a huge city. I'll have to keep searching. But yeah if someone wants to make some money I'll pay them for that download. I think if I did that I could tweak the settings a little bit to get an idea. But then again I understand some of the people might not have the same setting.

senate6268 Jan 19, 2010 05:22 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7903799)
well yeah I don't mind paying at all its not a big deal, i just can't find a place that will use ecu flash and tune my car which pisses me off because dallas is a huge city. I'll have to keep searching. But yeah if someone wants to make some money I'll pay them for that download. I think if I did that I could tweak the settings a little bit to get an idea. But then again I understand some of the people might not have the same setting.

PM'd.

steven121 Jan 21, 2010 12:49 PM

3 Attachment(s)
ok guys another update I FINALLY FOUND A FREAKING FLANGE!!! omg I spent over $45 of wasted money and found a flange that fits to a T. anyways ok guys if you are tying to find a flange or need one for this type of turbo TD05HR 9.8 or 10.5 hotside this is the flange you need to type in google or ebay

TD04HR Td05HR oil return flange

I spent a good $19.99 and the quality is amazing for this piece of metal here are some pics

OH yeah thanks for everyone's help on requesting a flange I was about to buy the evo 8 oil pipe along time ago

Attachment 311875


Attachment 311876

Attachment 311877

sorry quality is not so good couldn't find my camera so I used my phone

senate6268 Jan 21, 2010 05:02 PM

Is the drain flange from Function7 or are you sure is CNC'd aluminum and not cast? If not, I would double-check on the quality of the part to ensure it won't fail.

Function7 turbo oil flanges on eBay:
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=fun...ion7&_osacat=0

Function7 website:
http://www.function7.com/products/turboparts

Cheap eBay knockoff warning:
http://www.function7.com/warning

I've used Function7 parts on Honda motors I've built in the past. The quality is second to none. I use their brand of parts whenever I can and recommend them to everyone. {thumbup}

AMS also has aluminum oil flanges:
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/d...-adaptors.html

steven121 Jan 21, 2010 09:38 PM


Originally Posted by senate6268 (Post 7911080)
Is the drain flange from Function7 or are you sure is CNC'd aluminum and not cast? If not, I would double-check on the quality of the part to ensure it won't fail.

Function7 turbo oil flanges on eBay:
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=fun...ion7&_osacat=0

Function7 website:
http://www.function7.com/products/turboparts

Cheap eBay knockoff warning:
http://www.function7.com/warning

I've used Function7 parts on Honda motors I've built in the past. The quality is second to none. I use their brand of parts whenever I can and recommend them to everyone. {thumbup}

AMS also has aluminum oil flanges:
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/d...-adaptors.html


it looks more like the site in the middle, and the very top flange it looks like a really good quality flange and not some piece of crap metal. its legit I can tell from the other flange I bought

japordie Jan 22, 2010 09:59 AM

update! what else do you need do you have a list?

steven121 Jan 22, 2010 07:58 PM


Originally Posted by japordie (Post 7913328)
update! what else do you need do you have a list?


yeah this is what I have so far
  • TD05HR 16g 9.8 turbo + wastegate - $285
  • forge adjustable wastegate actuator and a 7- 10 lb spring
  • EVO 9 intercooler plus piping -$100
  • evo 8 downpipe - $65.00
  • stainless steel O2 housing - $50
  • 440cc injectors -
  • Blow off valve "probably stock evo 9 or greddy -
  • Turbo Manifold -
  • wideband gauge -
  • Oil presssure - Gauge
  • Egt guage
  • 255 fuel pump -
  • aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator -
  • oil feed - $70
  • Oil return kit -$80
  • boost controller -
  • Turbo Timer -
  • Accessories for turbo kit -
  • Slim fans -

japordie Jan 23, 2010 08:39 PM

Cool looks good. I would suggest an after market o2 housing and a 3'' exhaust all the way back. Since turbo runs off the exhaust 3'' is perfect, plus you don't have to upgrade again. For the the intake the HKS RS kit is a good option, or any brand along that line.For a B.O.V HKS has a recirculating kit for their B.O.V, I can find the link if needed and along with the B.O.V you can find the kit that includes the HKS pipe than mounts the B.O.V. For fuel it depends on how much pounds you want to run, but you can't go wrong with wrx injectors or greddy universal injecters, RRM big bore fuel rail, and fuel pump. you don't need fuel lines cause they can take up to like over 25 psi (something like that). I like to run the car with an Emanage or SAFC 2, a decent piggy back. Well those are my suggestions, it's understandable if the price is an issue cause it took me a while to complete my project but I slept good at night!

steven121 Jan 23, 2010 09:10 PM


Originally Posted by japordie (Post 7917524)
Cool looks good. I would suggest an after market o2 housing and a 3'' exhaust all the way back. Since turbo runs off the exhaust 3'' is perfect, plus you don't have to upgrade again. For the the intake the HKS RS kit is a good option, or any brand along that line.For a B.O.V HKS has a recirculating kit for their B.O.V, I can find the link if needed and along with the B.O.V you can find the kit that includes the HKS pipe than mounts the B.O.V. For fuel it depends on how much pounds you want to run, but you can't go wrong with wrx injectors or greddy universal injecters, RRM big bore fuel rail, and fuel pump. you don't need fuel lines cause they can take up to like over 25 psi (something like that). I like to run the car with an Emanage or SAFC 2, a decent piggy back. Well those are my suggestions, it's understandable if the price is an issue cause it took me a while to complete my project but I slept good at night!

Do I even need the piggy back option or can I use the stock ecu? and what is the e - manage and safc2 is that like a standalone fuel manage ment or something close? I think I just need help on the computer part, I seem to struggle on that alot

senate6268 Jan 23, 2010 09:46 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7917570)
Do I even need the piggy back option or can I use the stock ecu? and what is the e - manage and safc2 is that like a standalone fuel manage ment or something close? I think I just need help on the computer part, I seem to struggle on that alot

Stock ECU can be used in conjunction with EcuFlash. Evo ECU can be swapped in and tuned as well. I would recommend against an SAFC for turbo tuning. You can't adjust the fuel independently from ignition. The eManage is a piggyback system that alters the signals going from the engine's sensors to the ECU. There is also AEM's EMS. This is a full standalone that replaces your stock ECU. There are also other standalone ECU solutions that are universal and can be installed on pretty much any vehicle.

japordie Jan 23, 2010 10:21 PM

yeah what senate said, I prefer the E-manage which is a piggy back. if you plan on running 5-7 psi just get your ecu reflashed or get an evo ecu. do alot of reading on tuning your car so you will know whats right for you

steven121 Jan 24, 2010 01:34 PM


Originally Posted by japordie (Post 7917688)
yeah what senate said, I prefer the E-manage which is a piggy back. if you plan on running 5-7 psi just get your ecu reflashed or get an evo ecu. do alot of reading on tuning your car so you will know whats right for you

heyI heard that if we get our ecu's reflashed it can handle at 10 psi is that true? and if so why don't I just get it reflashed and fix my problems? or can I do that and scale out the fuel for the injectors or what? not trying to bother peoplebut this is going to be the hardest part from what I know and I need to get it right the first time so I don't F up my engine.

can anyone tell me from thier experience what would be best for tuning and flashing the ecu? I need to get this down asap!!!

senate6268 Jan 24, 2010 02:18 PM

The best option for tuning your car, turbo or not, is using EcuFlash. Hands down.

03lances Jan 24, 2010 02:19 PM

Ecuflash and tactrix 1.3 cable are the only options for flashing. Also a "flash" isnt something you do to your car and it automatically configures for your custom setup you have to do numerous flashes to get everything just right. When you "flash" you have went in and manually changed something and the flashed it back to your cars computer and then you log to test and see if what you changed created the desired result. Yes I am at 10psi with my stock ecu for the time being and its just fine

steven121 Jan 24, 2010 02:49 PM

done and over with thanks guys just to repeat again

i will use my ecu and flash it to accomodate for my turbo kit... gotcha :D

Thank you to everyone, I was literally having seizures after not figuring this out.

steven121 Jan 25, 2010 01:12 PM

Update!!!!
 
1 Attachment(s)
alright just got my parts in today that I bought from Japordie... dude you sent me way to much I wasn't expecting all of that. But just a couple things though

1. he sent me magnacore spark plug wires, I already have the NGK blue wires I bought from speed corps installed in my car which one is preferred better?

2.) where I circled the intake tube to the turbo where does this little tube connect to?

here are the pics

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2..._/DSC02848.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2..._/DSC02852.jpg

Attachment 311878

steven121 Jan 25, 2010 01:13 PM


Originally Posted by steven121 (Post 7922664)
alright just got my parts in today that I bought from Japordie... dude you sent me way to much I wasn't expecting all of that. But just a couple things though

1. he sent me magnacore spark plug wires, I already have the NGK blue wires I bought from speed corps installed in my car which one is preferred better?

2.) where I circled the intake tube to the turbo where does this little tube connect to?

here are the pics

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2..._/DSC02848.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2..._/DSC02852.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2..._/DSC02851.jpg


oh yeah there is anothre tube by the BOV I know that connects to the engine. just a heads up

03lances Jan 25, 2010 01:33 PM

That nipple you circled on your intake pipe I hooked my line coming off my valve cover to it (although most I see just putting a little cone filter off the valve cover and I assume cap off the nipple) The one off your bov needs to be connected to a boost source usually off the intake mani, I tee'ed into the fpr line and ran my boost gauge and bov boost source from that

steven121 Jan 25, 2010 01:45 PM


Originally Posted by 03lances (Post 7922754)
That nipple you circled on your intake pipe I hooked my line coming off my valve cover to it (although most I see just putting a little cone filter off the valve cover and I assume cap off the nipple) The one off your bov needs to be connected to a boost source usually off the intake mani, I tee'ed into the fpr line and ran my boost gauge and bov boost source from that

im getting some of the lingo here the fpr is the fuel pressure line right? I understand the the intake tube that won't be so hard. But the BOV is there a tube I can connect it to the intake manifold? or when I buy my fuel pressure regulator do I just run a line from the BOV to the that regulator?


or is there a diagram someone can show me or pics so I can get an ideal?

03lances Jan 25, 2010 02:26 PM

Fpr is the fuel pressure regulator its at the passenger end of your fuel rail and you will see a vaccuum line coming off this going to the side of your intake manifold, this line is what I T'eed into and ran it to my bov, I will take a pic when I get time.

steven121 Jan 25, 2010 02:45 PM


Originally Posted by 03lances (Post 7922979)
Fpr is the fuel pressure regulator its at the passenger end of your fuel rail and you will see a vaccuum line coming off this going to the side of your intake manifold, this line is what I T'eed into and ran it to my bov, I will take a pic when I get time.

ok bro I got the concept now, take your time with the pic theres no rush im almost done getting a majority of my parts out the way but thanks man.

japordie Jan 30, 2010 03:47 PM

sorry about the extra stuff, I thought you could use it.

steven121 Jan 30, 2010 08:54 PM


Originally Posted by japordie (Post 7941100)
sorry about the extra stuff, I thought you could use it.

oh no Im not complaining I was just like omg I never expected it.

the next post will tell you what I need left

steven121 Jan 30, 2010 08:58 PM

parts I need left
 
This is what I need left guys
  • TD05HR 16g 9.8 turbo + wastegate - $285
  • forge adjustable wastegate actuator and a 7- 10 lb spring
  • EVO 9 intercooler plus piping -$100
  • evo 8 downpipe - $65.00
  • stainless steel O2 housing - $50
  • 440cc injectors -
  • Blow off valve "evo 9"
  • Turbo Manifold -
  • wideband gauge -
  • Oil presssure Gauge
  • Egt guage -
  • 255 fuel pump -
  • aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator -
  • oil feed - $70
  • Oil return kit -$80
  • boost controller -
  • Turbo Timer -
  • 10" Slim fans -


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