I took a quick look at the log. I can see the hesitation. Can you do some more logging, but enable IPW and IDC when you do. The 4G94 engine is known for having a flat spot issue around 3500-4000 RPM with their AFRs. After 4000-4500 RPM it'll picks back up. Your logs show this as well.

Also, are people really running their ignition timing this low in their tuning?

I think the question is, how are you running it so much higher???

Ok so this is annoying me what the hell am I doing wrong? I have been trying to open this file for 10 mins I keep getting a corrupted file error and general input/output error. I know its something stupid I am not seeing this is why I am so irritated lol.

im running my timing this low because imconstantly getting knocks all the time, sometimes there slow cel, or once in awhile its a fast cel and im not taking any chances on blowing her up. I will log that for you tomorrow morning when im heading to work. if anyone can help me fix this issue, I will definelty repay them for the work


higher? I dont know if its to high or to low, im still getting use to the timing issue, I know how the high octane fuel map works

if you want me to email it to you pm me your email again, I had to clear out my messages again

I dont think its anything on your end steven as senate could view it just fine. I know I must be doing something wrong as I have been trying on and off all day and no such luck :crap: do I have to rename this file or something? I am using openoffice and have no issue opening my own logs. I tried converting it to a csv file like my own logs are with no luck.

no im using excel from microsoft so that might be the issue because I tried using open office and most of the time it wont work with excel. your going to have to use a different computer or install microsoft excel

When you are done logging with evoscan it should save it in the same format as mine unless you open it up in excell then save it after you view it which might cause me issues. I am cheap and open office is free :lol: I have it on my laptop and desktop.

hmmmm not sure it just opens up in excel automatically.... :crap:

Do you save it after that? Mine automatically save as a .csv file and I can veiw in open office no prob although your file I tried converting and says its corrupt dunno what the deal is lol.

doing logging after work, overslept lol... I have been reading lately and 2 people are using the evo manfold, is this the intake manifold? and if so does this bolt straight up to block or does it need to be modidied? just curious

here are the logs from today that include IPW, and IDC

how do I fix this flat spot? Like what do I need to adjust in map to fix this issue so I can get every bit of power out of my car

If someone can tell me something maybe I have to do to get these logs to read in openoffice I would be much appreciated. I have been trying on and off the past couples day to view these logs to no avail :lol::banghead:. Dunno what I am doing wrong? I double click on it and then open with openoffice and it wants me to choose a template, none of which seem to work. :confused:

03lance do this, go to google.com and download the free trial of microsoft excel lol I just remembered I did that when I was in school last year lol

nevermind heading back to the books

car is still running great, I think that flat spot is from an air leak which probably came from my boost gauge because its broken now.... needle wont move and when I use my continuity tester the red light is dim which means its getting power but theres an issue somewhere in the guage.

Oh and one more problem my ams boost controller is missing the ball bearing... it fell out and now I cant find it :crap: so its kinda of whatever.

ok I called ams to see if I can get another ceramic ball for the boost controller, and they told me I have to buy a new boost controller.... Great there goes $35.00 down the drain... Anyone know where I can get a ball at for the ams boost controller?

heres a link for a pic

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/images/AMS0029.jpg

also how do yall feel about ebay boost controllers?

Tuning portion of Thread
 

Okim starting a new thread line to seperate my tuning questions from mechanical. So heres the scoop

I log the car for almost an hour today consisting of cruising and idling


Now here are the specs of my tune plus injectors

injectors are rated at 882cc, in order to tune them to the correct setting they need to scaled 15-20% lower than the rated flow. so I need to work with a scale between 705 - 750 no higher or lower than these specs.


Right now my ltft's for idle and cruise are at

.10 idle, and -1.08 for mid/cruise at a scale of 790 which is over my limit I posted.

the latency im using for my rom is

4.6875 - 4.944
7.03125 - 3.192
9.375 - 2.184
11.7188 - 1.368
14.0625 - 1.008
16.4062 - 0.624
18.6768 - 0.432

so here are a couple questions, im going to use my scaling percentage at the top. I know how to adjust my ltft's according by latency and scaling.

1.) When adjusting the latency's do I need to adjust the entire latency portion, or adjust each one individually?

2.) what voltages do you guys run or how do I setup the voltage by how my car runs and idles?

3.) my car's voltage idle is around 13.92 - 14.32 which puts my voltage around the 14.06 portion correct? do you guys adjust them buy increments, or do you multiply them by a percentage to get your ltft's close to zero? - if you have to adjust one latency or the whole row...

depending on the answers I will a few more questions so I can get my car tuned this week.

When you make adjustments to the latencies, make increments/decrements in the smallest amount possible allowed by EcuFlash. Increment/Decrement by .01. While cruising you will adjust around 14.06v. At idle it will be closer to 12.5v or so. Making changes to the surrounding voltages will also have an effect, but not as much as changing the direct values at 14.06v.

ok cool, now do I change all of them at the same time or do I work mostly on just the 14.06 and the 12.05 by themselves? once this question gets cleared up I will spend thursday tuning the entire time

You can make adjustments however you want. Like I stated, changing the values at 14v and 12v will have a more drastic change at that voltage than the surrounding values will. But the surrounding values will allow you to make smaller changes that affect those voltages.

MISFIRE IS GONE!!!!

CAR RUNS LIKE FRIGGIN AWESOME. im pushing 10 psi easliy and this car freaking hauls man. Im officially done with the car. Still getting low 11s for afrs dso I need to lean that mixture up just a little bit and it will be good. But my tune is probably good up till about maybe 14 psi with my 880cc injectors. Thanks guys for helping me out. Now its time to enjoy my car!!! I will still help out with info if anyone needs any.


Oh yeah just for your info my gap was currently at .24 which caused the misfire at 10 psi

.24 is goo for 0-5 psi
.18-.20 is good for 5-10 psi

I gapped them at .20 yesterday compared to having them orginally at .24 I will make a video of my car later today

today was an interesting day. It was my G-ma's bday today and she wanted us to go to olive garden which is like 10 mins down the road.

well I was running a little late and took the highway and started boosting and I made 12 psi on my motor.... I didnt even relize it till I got there and checked the peak boost on my gauge, Im surprised I didnt break a rod or something "knock on wood" so tomorrow im going to lower the boost to 9-10 so I can be at least in the safe zone. Still sitting in the 11.1's

i hit 15.4 was my highest before my greddy cut me out....

our engines can take a lot more than people think. its just "HOW MUCH" can it take. but it also always depends on your tune...

bro this tune is really good im still in the low 11s with afrs, so im wondering what boost level is going to lean out my tune? Unless its rich through out the whole way because im pretty sure roadspike did the tune up to a cerain percentage

Drove home from work this morning, figured Id do a quick log. So im in second gear and I WOT and everything goes up smooth unitl about 4200 rpm I get backfire, and I get a really fast knock count so I instantly back off the throttle. I was like oh S*** I either broke a rod or a piston got messed up, then my car idles just fine so theres no engine damage. But my car got a knock count at 14-15 around 210 load, around 4200 rpms. I have the logs right here but my retarded usb extender didnt even log the afrs so that was pretty much of a waste but you can see here...
now my timing is aroun 0 to -1 and on the log the the timing says -4, is that the ecu trying to pull timing to counter act the knocks? so basically I need to go from -1 to -3 or -4 because the ecu already pulled 3 degrees of timing.
so basically it should pull 4 degrees timing all together with me and the ecu correct?

Well im think im getting the hang of tweaking out the knocks, I lowered the boost to 7 psi and was able to do a full throttle pull all the way up to redline without any knock lights from 2nd to 4th then went highway speed of 60 at 5th, Got a really good powerband around 5k.

about to increase the boost up to 9-10 and leave it alone from there. And I will post up a log tonight and you guys can tell me how my tune looks so far.

after I get these knocks out the way im going to zero in on these ltfts. They seem pretty good right now just below -+/5 range

Depending on how you adjust your ltfts being injector scaling or latency, wont that affect your afrs throughout?

I don't think so that just makes the Injectors open and close properly, I think when you scale them that changes the afrs

Update doing some more tuning to work out these knocks, I think I know why I keep hitting a knock on like every single pull. I bought an ebay mbc to save money and it had alot of good reviews. Me and the gf went to cici's to get some food, then went to see buried.... do not see that movie it sucks {thumbdwn}

anyways took her home got some gas, and logged some data. I did a wot pull from 2500 rpms in 3rd gear. I got a quick CEL flash for knock and got a couple of backfires. So I let off the accelerator because I freaked out and pressed the peak boost button and I couldnt believe it.... Im surprised my motor hasnt blown up yet.... well turning down the boost again I think there is something wrong with my mbc

check it out... yup 14 psi
Attachment 311967

i'm scared to death of overboosting.....so many youtube videos where vacuum tubes come off or something and the engine just pops. I wonder what's the deal with the mbc, did you turn it up and it went too far, or has it just changed on it's own? There really shouldn't be any moving parts in there to fail, right?

Ive hit 17psi before :D
lol
Car see's 0-130 all the time also !
Has about 7000 miles of this .
Haha

So hows the build going man ?
I might have a turbo back for sale soon too if you need one !

Steven FYI if your afrs are good do not change your injector scaling this will affect your afrs while in boost. How much I'm not sure depends on how much you change them. adjusting latencies will not affect your boosting afrs :)

yeah your right bro, thats pretty much what I need to work on is my latencies, right now my scaling is at 750, it use to be 770. But im liking the low afrs because they fluctuate between 11-11.5. I just need to change up the latency because when I get a cold start going I lean up to 17+ so I have to give it a little gas for it to go to stoich.

cruise right now is at -2.66 for ltfts still want it closer to zero

dude, 2.66 is fine, well within the acceptable range. mine was at like 4 with all stock stuff, i wouldn't worry with it just tune timing to get rid of knock and fix any sort of idle issues.

Stock evos have been known to go as high as +/-7

OMG.... this timing issue trying me mad...:helpme: its like I get knocks here and there and I lowered the timing so much, my afrs are good I just can't figure out eactly how to smooth it all out so I dont get these random knocks. on my little journey home from work tonight my highest count of knock is at 7... well its better than the 14 I had in the past couple days. I will post up these logs for yall to take a look. im not sure what the problem is

edit*** can backfire also cause the knock light to come on as well?

actually heres what I did, besides me lowering the timing, I am going to gradually increase. Basically what roadspike told me was make your graph look smooth and pretty so when i checked my last map when I lowered the timing the graph looked smooth and had a dip which could have caused my knocks going like crazy each time. My graph looks smooth now so I will flash it tomorrow and let you guys know how it went.


Recompile said in the video. you cant have a timing go like 10, 5, 1, 0, -1, 0 -2, -3 and so on...

quote - logistics tells us that as rpms goes up timing has to go up as well. but as boost goes up timing has to be lowered. and he said something like you cant have a sudden jump in timing because if could affect your tune under weather conditions ect.... so basically change that negative one to a 0, and make the 0 after it a -1 so you can gradually go up in timing... would this be correct? this is what I did to help smooth out the graph.


sorry for all the words I got a little carried away

all the knock is at like 3500 RPM and 150 load or so, do you want to post your recent rom and we can take a look at that?

A backfire will very much register on your knock count. Remember all the knock sensor is, is a microphone tuned to listen for distinct sharp noises aside from the normal operation noise so a backfire will cause a hell of a shock for the knock sensor.

Yeah, and it almost looks like it's when he lets off of the throttle. Steven, are you letting off when you see the knock light, or are you letting off and then seeing the knock light?

its really kind of both, like when I get ready to shift into different gears it will just come up, or if I see the knock light at a high rpm I will let off

I'd really like a look at the ROM you are using, to get a better idea of the Knock multipliers, the fuel table, the timing, etc etc....and the backfire, you're hearing a backfire sometimes?

its mostly at wot around 4-5k or my powerband really just pm me you email and I will send it tonight when i get home. I took the motorcycle today

hey all you turbo lancers, how did you set up your knock sensor filtering on your rom? I left mine stock but Hornstar brought up that it would have to be change to fit my car since its not an evo

i just used the stock evo rom and it worked great for me.

Roadspike brought it up when 03lances was flashing the evo rom to his lancer. He said that the evo multipliers were slightly different, which was why 03 lances saw 10 counts of knock with the exact same timing as his base lancer map.

03lances was pulling like, way more timing than he had to with the base rom. still, if so mant dont change the knock stuff....then maybe its nothing. is there knock with that updated timing map stephen?

i never encountered any of that high of knock with a base evo rom. car ran beautifully.

josh

if you sent me a rom updating my timing map then no I havent seen anything lol. Yeah I was seeing 10-12 counts of knock as well im curious to see what 03lance is running. It probably varies from car to car but if its a knock or not I still wont take the risk of ignoring it one slip up could cost me thousands.

I havent change the timing at all on the car. I get knocks here and there but there only a 3 count but if I can get the knock filter taken care of and see my actual knock then we can see the real knocks

Aight, I'll tell you what I know then. 03lances sent me his ROM a few days back, and he's got all the multipliers as 19, which is 1 above the stock lancer values (of 18). He had what he believes to be phantom knock, and turned that up 1 tick to keep it from occuring. I can't remember the single and triple gain right now, but I believe they were stock evo numbers.

The key is this, knock is just a microphone, so if you remove cats, add power, stiffen things, anything that will increase noise can make modifications to what the knock sensor will see, it can make a difference without knowing how accurate the knock sensor really is.

Now, with that in mind, there isn't a good way to find out how "off" you are with the knock sensors, other than using a dyno to truely tune the car and then adjusting the knock sensors accordingly.

So, If JRR had perfect results with the evo settings, you are having pretty good results with the evo settings, and the only adjustments that 03lances made (i mean, sort of fudging this, but you get the idea...he did add 1all the way across) were the high and low multipliers. Maybe that mid knock multiplier hits pretty much the whole range, and if we had a higher rev limit, then the "high muiltiplier" would kick in, like past 6500 or something. Still, I say just be safe like you are saying, and stick with the evo settings,, I'm going to do that as well. Then, if you really see some sort of power loss, like you have to pull super duper amounts of timing, then revisit the issue, but that's not what you've got going on now, right? Just 1-3 counts? If so, have you "tuned for power" yet, or are you just trying to remove all knock atm?

With my car in particular I have noticed I get higher knock counts in the middle load levels at mid to higher rpms (3500+) for some reason. Say for example I am on the highway doing 75 and I give it maybe 40% throttle I can see higher knock counts, now if I then floor it they almost instantly drop to nill to nothing. Not sure why yet I have not addressed the issue but I will be once I get some free time. I have determined it was phantom knock with roadspikes help, we kept lowering the timing to the point where my performance was really hurting and I could still get knock counts over 10 just by doing simple fast shifts or different throttle positions at different rpms. One thing is I know I need to change my throwout bearing, it only makes noise when I am releasing the pedal in gear which could easily be affecting my knock sensor.

If you are thinking of adjusting the knock settings I would take the necessary steps to confirm if its is phantom knock or not.

basically what you just said is whats happening to me, I was going 75 on the highway towards the airport to take my G-ma there so she can fly home. I accelerated about 40 or I did a wot and I had a 3 count knock or where the cel light flashed slowly 3 times. Usually when I log the car from what I learned from the recompile vids is that if the contiuously knock through out the spreadsheet then its a real knock. im not sure how you can determine if its phantom knock.

This all makes a lot of sense. My one remaining question then, is are the knock sensors on the 4g94 and 4g64 the same, because if they are, then we ought to be perfect leaving the knock multipliers the same. If they are different, then it would make sense to swap them over to the same stuff as the base lancer.

I will proabbly just stick with the stock settings then, and if not I will probably have to take it to a dyno or someplace and get it tuned to figure out this issue. The dynos here are very expensive over 250 plus per hour... one guy will do it for 100 an hour but he doesnt open port tune so im basically screwed until I save up some money. I will see whats up maybe I have something loose on the car that makes the knock sensor go off. But its mostly 3 counts but still even if 3 is the safe kncok count I wont take the chance unless I have a motor waiting for me as a backup

It isnt necessarily the sensor itself but the harmonics of different engines that necessitates the needs of different settings. The harmonics of the 4G63 are different than that of the 4G94. Its risky business IMO adjusting the knock settings but sometimes its what you have to do. In my case even though I am positive I was not experiencing real knock this does not change the fact that the ecu did and took the appropriate action to attempt to remove it by lowering my timing and therefore reducing my performance.

Yeah, from what I can tell JRR, Senate, and ...I can't remember who, but basically everyone I have seen has left them "evo stock" when using the evo rom. I don't necessarily think it's perfect, as the knock settings for the lancer are what they are, so they should be the same in the evo rom, since we aren't changing out the knock sensor. Having said that....everyone but 03 lances seems to get relatively similar knock results when on the evo ecu, and the only guy (who we all trust a lot) that has seen the stock lancer multipliers is RoadSpike. So, I think sticking with the evo ECU settings are pretty good for now, unless you have a reason to change. The only real problem is that in the mid range, multipliers are the same....but the high one appears to be less sensative, so I'm a bit scared of that. I think it's less sensative, not really sure. I wish Senate or Roadspike were here....lol


Just FYI, the knock sensors do appear to have different part numbers for the evo vs the lancer. I think I'm going to stick with stock, unless I see the same results as 03lances where same timing and AFR produces much more knock than with the lancer rom. If that happens, I'll try to "stock lancer" settings, if they are really that from what road spike says. Anyone know a good way to check roadspike's work, and find out if it really is 18 all the way through on the multiplier, and the different single and triple gains?

Has anyone tried to replace the microphone with an evo one?

it kinda makes more sense if its possible but then you have to mess with the wiring..... unless its easy

Alright guys here the status about the car

Im leaning more towards keeping the lancer and heres why

Like senate said cost go up when owning an evo and my parents need more money for reasons they dont want me saying and made me realize if I owned the evo My parents wouldnt get the money they needed help with , And when I pay off my credit card I think im going all the way with my car.

So im going to keep the lancer until futhur notice to see what my dad is doing about his money issue!!! I'm also going to try to fit on the evo 8 front bumper and see how that goes so I can at least feel like I own one.

But if I keep the lancer these are the Future plans probably aiming towards June of 2011

GT35R turbo
Lower compression pistons I think 8:1 if I remember correctly
K1 Rods "reppin Demons rods"
ACL rod bearings
Port polish
Ignition Upgrade
Cams "please recommend what kind" looking at a stage 2 so I can keep at as a DD
Full Exhaust upgrade to 3" so bye bye magnaflow muffer because its only rated at 2.5" for the inlet and 4" for the outlet

I'm like you...thinking ahead way before I'm done with my current "stuff", lol. I'm onboard with the pistons, I think 8.8:1 is what a lot of people agree works well. But yeah, I'll be getting pistons and rods like you're talking as well, once I sort of see the light at the end of the tunnel. With the whole economy thing, I've been eating at home a lot more, spending less on clothes, games, pc parts, etc etc...

always have to keep that money thing in mind. Best advice I've gotten to date is "never be in debt". See if you can't be at even or better, like no credit cards, no car payments...and if you have a lucky spot, no house payment. The less you waste on interest, the richer you get...so keep that in mind. save up an extra year, and you'll be better off...might even get an evo 3 or 4 years down the line, and enjoy it more...that's my plan, if I don't have a kid between now and then, lol.

Oh, and for Cam...be careful not to go too big, because you need the cam to fit where the car makes most of it's power. a big ol honker of a cam, like 272 or whatever isn't really going to help a bunch. Best to get a stage1 (stock mirage) cam, maybe stage 2...but really, probably ok to stick with the stage 1. Think about polishing up your throttle body too, and upgrading your suspension before adding too much power with all the other stuff. How is your wheel hop btw, do you get any? and do you have standard stock motor mounts? I'm thinking about "window welding" mine, since they look like they are aging a bit....7 years will do that.

I was also looking into that when mine was getting tunned , the tunner (Really good friend of mine at Jms Racing) said that the motor was getting alot of knock on the knock sensor so there was not much timing added so he told me to look into a Evo knock sensor aswell . He added very little to no timing and i was able to run a 14.0 @ 97 on 10psi :D

yeah that was it bro 8:8:1 lol, I heard its just alot easier to tune plus you can run more psi, this economy does blow thats why im leaning on the lancer a little more but your right maybe I should wait a little longer to see how things turn out and once things get better I can uprgrade to something better. I didnt think about a stage 1 cam though... I considered ours a stage 1 for some reason but know I feel like an idiot lol. I dont get alot of bouce its the way you let out your clutch if you let it out nice and smooth you should be just fine but my suspension is starting to wear down I can hear some sore of scraping noise so I need to take it easy and get ready to upgrade. For the motor mounts I read you can use the evo 8 stock ones. The front is easy to change but the rear is hard to do for some reason. How much longer you got till you start your build? you got me dying over here beucase you will be one of the turbo lancers that is close to my area as well as 02-Lancer-Es but hes about 8-10 hours away from my area lol

yea I was thinking about that earlier and it might be a really good idea I just dont know exactly how do you hook it up? do you plan on doing the same thing?

I have to agree with Anderson here. When I decided to go turbo I also decided nothing was going on credit so I worked my ass off and paid for everything in my build with cash. I will say I used to be the payment king I coud never save money but could always "pay it off" quick. This build also taught me its not impossible to save money and not have a payment. Now that all I have is my house payment and day to day bills I plan on paying for everything cash (except cars and houses of course) but even cars I plan at least half down or more :D

My build will probably start the day I sell my Buick. The wife doesn't want 4 insurance payments, so I have to sell the Buick to bring the Scion to our house (it's her brother's and he's in Afghanistan right now, so he told me to "keep it running" for him instead of letting it sit and rot). Anyway, I'm listing our Buick at 1500 on craigslist to see if anyone bites, and if not every week I'm going down 100 bucks until it sells. With a spare car, I could start, but I just don't trust the buick and it's got no A/C...and I'm not able to find the refridgerant leak for some reason.

Probably....starting October 25th I think, because this weekend I have an e-mail migration and I've got to go to my first "gay wedding" on the following weekend.

How far are you from me, and where is the nearest drag strip....also, try searching for "austin drag strip" and you won't find what you want...

just had a few questions

what is the intake manifold rated to for hp wise
what is the most hp you can run with a stock cam?

are the 8:8:1 pistons a direct fit in or when replacing pistons do you have to adjust the fitting?

edit** im going to do some research first before asking

yeah I decided im keeping the lancer I can always get an evo later on or something better. But for right im keeping my baby!!! she has held up through so many problems and helping me all the time this is probably one of the best cars I had ever had.

so next month im upgrading the entire exhuast of the car to 3"
so I need recommendations for exhaust I will give reasons

I have this maganflow muffler http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...e=main&id=9158

I love this muffler but if im going 3" i need a bigger muffler but not to big because it wont do me any good.

I would prefer something like the evo 8/9 style and sound for a muffler but I DO NOT WANT IT TO SOUND RICEY!!!! any suggestions or should I keep this exhaust?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Magna...Q5fAccessories

This is it steven I have this muffler and it sounds very nice and deep not ricey in the slightest bit I LOVE IT.

that muffler is pretty sick thats why I love magnaflow, the only problem I see wih this mufler is trying to angle it like the import styles thats what im trying to go for once I build this car like if you look at mitsukids pic here https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...late-haha.html

I like the way that looks. with my muffler I can do it because its round body but I need a 3" inlet so theres no smaller gap weld.

03lance I think I seen that muffler on youtube it sounds sick!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzFp--fkme8

Steven here another more recent pic
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...028419000.jpeg

:D

I just think that looks really sick. The mufflers Im deciding on will allow me to still keep the horsepower and allow me to angle are these

greddy evo 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynrag...eature=related

blitz nur spec r - which im leaning more towards
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2Ez1z5fxGg

or megan muffler
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puhMRBluzOY

what I just realized when I didnt have my turbo on my car my muffler sounded ricey "my definition of ricey is that annoying raspey sound when you hit a certain rpms I cant explain it but kinda like my old vids you can find on youtube" when I installed the turbo it made it alot more quieter
I know these are evos but these are the only quik vids I could find that will let you see what kind of sound and style im looking towards

this is the sound im trying to acheive
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGg1m...eature=related

The last one sounds "ricey" to me. I like the way magnaflow sounds, and I will probably ditch my "ebay SR*S" muffler as soon as I can. Still, gonna wait for the turbo and see if it adds enough equalization of pressure to stop the "flub flub flub" as I let off the gas.

Are you talking about the megan?

the "launch" video

sorry lol I meant something kinda like this noise

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEi8V...eature=related

like its raspy thats kinda how my car sounded before

here is a vid of my car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EtFNmcsSxc

oh...yeah, anything that "pops" is ricey imo. I like deep and "throaty" sounding exhaust. I'm not sure if it's the camera or what, but lemmie record a clip of my car so you can hear my ebay's....once it's a decent hour, wouldn't want to piss off the neighbors.

yup its official, I went to a car meet and spoke to one of the guys there that has an evo 8 with a stock turbo as well. when I rev it he looked at me like what is that noise and I said I dont know he asked is there shaft play, I said no, then he asked is it leaking oil I told him yeah, he said you need to either rebuild your turbo or buy a new one before it gets worse.

so I need a poll here
-Buy a new evo 8 turbo
-rebuild my current turbo

need to know by this friday and I will tally up the votes

I say rebuild. Rebuild kits are inexpensive and that way you will be able to sell that turbo when you do upgrade.

Is it hard to rebuild them ?
I know that mine needs it i just neglect it .
Because it spits out oil out the exhaust and Licp

votes

rebuild = 1 - 03lance

new turbo = 0 votes

No its a fairly straight forward job. Your just pulling it apart and replacing seals mainly

hey when you guys rev your car in neutral and spool the turbo does it sound something like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vozqddUZZw

this is what I first heard when I put my turbo car together. But now it doesnt make this sound anymore it just sounds like a metal sound

That sounds so sick...my turbo also has a metal sound instead of a nice whistle...like somethings loose or rattling! How do i make it sound so sick like that dude?

**EDIT- hearing that vid again tempted me to just unbolt my exhaust and run the 3'' downpipe, It sounds pretty sick! you can hear a spool but not as loud as the SRT-4, prob cuz mine's only at 5 PSI

bro he's running a bigger turbo thats why it sounds so loud. im probably just going to get the complete rebuild done

I thought the SRT-4's come with 16g's? Even stock you can hear the turbo through the exhaust, just not as loud as that one, that sounds so sick..A rebuild kit? Like i did? if you get a rebuild kit, make sure you get it balanced..i didnt balance my turbo and i think thats why it blew again, ether that or the shaft is just way out of wack by now. And whats the biggest size turbo we can put on the 16G turbo setup? Is there any other size turbo that will bolt up to the setup i have now (megan mani w/ 4g94 flange, 16g setup) or do i have to get a new manifold and stuff?

the only turbo that is a direct swap from what I seen are the td05h turbos, and the fp black, red and green turbos because they use the same flange

Gotcha

So my parents came to me today and told me news that made me worry I just got the full news and my parents need 3000 dollars by Nov 3rd or they loose the house so I'm probably going to tear down the car and sell the parts so they don't loose the house I wish there was another option but I have to help them there going to talk to the bank and see if they can pay half if not my project has came to an end I will let everyone know the final scoop tomorrow

Aw man dude, that sucks :crap: glad to see your helping your parents out tho {thumbup}. Are you going to do another build once things get sorted out??

I really hate to hear this. When I was younger, I did the same thing though. I had a Jeep that I got for "free 99" and then proceeded to re-upholster it, re-carpet it, fixed the A/C, got tires, repaired steering, learned to weld to get the doors back on....I mean the list went on and on. I poured my soul into that car....and then my dad goes into the hospital, we're in debt like a mill and a half, and can't afford to stay afloat. We move to texas, sell everything, start fresh near the grandparents.

Anyhow, long story short, my dad got better, he started his own company, we got back on our feet, and now I'm turbo'ing a lancer. So, the same will happen for you. The "recession" that is freaking everyone out will be over in a year or so, life will go back to normal (or close enough), and you'll be putting FP Blacks on Evo 11's...keep your spirits up and know it's just one speedbump in the road that is life.

IM not sure bro maybe maybe not, im just waiting for my dads money to come in but he keeps saying next month next month, its not his fault we jus have to keep waiting.

thanks for your support, the bank said they will take 2,000 we will have enough money for that but we are still going to be 900 short + the mortgage for next month. So i'll probably take the parts off or try to sell the car as is by the end of november so I can at least pay for the mortgage part. Im hoping this doesnt have to happen because this is my first car I bought and its amazing how long this car lasted with no problems, plus im pushin like 12 psi on this car especially with all these crazy knocks and you know what she hasnt even blown yet :lol:

so I might want to start preparing for the worst does anyone have the stock manifold I can buy for 40 or somethingI get paid today and I will have enough to last me for 2 weeks for gas and food

I wish I had a spare one laying around for you. I would even swap mine for your turbo mani and pay some extra but this is my d.d. Sorry to hear about everything that is going on. Look to the future and try to stay happy. Good things will come. That's how I attemt to view the world.

well the car has been on craigslist for about 2 weeks and no call, so im kinda happy because I still get to enjoy the car... so anyways still working on tuning the car and it running really good

so went to the college to register for my emt classes and on my way home I saw an evo 8 driving next to me. MY GOD they are fast JRR was right about 80 they do pull away haha. but I was keeping up till about that point but hit 11 psi and still going with no knock.

But here is my theory about our cars knocking, I notice when in a certain gear and you try to do a pull and you get that little bumps from the clutch or if you have a bad turbo and it makes noises could also cause your car to have false knocks. so im thinking somewhere in the load of the knock filtering sensor needs to be lowered in the higher loads at certain rpms but im not saying do it because I could be wrong but this is my theory becuase I get knocks at those points.

Alright so major update in my progress
I got a full pull in 3rd gear all the way up to red line, but my log only shows it at 5500, so it seems like its off. I noticed that my accel enrich had a big dip in it and wasnt smooth on the graph. So I figured hey why not try the tephra rom settings. And sure enough it worked like a charm. The only negative thing is im running really rich so I coult either add some timing and smooth out the graph a little bit more, or lean out the mixture just a tad.
here are some logs tell me what you think

Looks really smooth Steven. My VDR calc'd about 150hp, which is pretty sweet. The car was hot for that, ya? you'd been doing other runs before is what I mean. Because when I do the first 2 pulls, my AFR's are richer, and then by about 3+ they get to "normal". Just making sure because if you lean it out and it goes leaner as the car warms, it might cause trouble.

No recommendations though....looks great. You've just set the bar for a perfect-log-a-thon, I need a few more days (maybe weeks) to tune, and you are ON! lol. I think as far as accel enrich, it would make sense to use tephra/evo settings, because of the injector size. I don't know exactly how it works other than stab throttle = mas fuel...but specifics, I have no idea....just makes sense to me though, lol.

so i was just reading above and its past nov 3rd....does this mean ur keeping ur car...must be since u want my engine

yeah Im keeping the car I think my dad is caught up on his bills, the only thing he asked me to pay was my cell phone so I think he got his money but just hasnt said anything yet

That is very good news. Make sure you keep up the good work, car-wise and money wise. It's always better to save now, and spend later....unless you get a great deal on a built bottom end that can boost 17psi and probably put down 300+hp at that pressure with a quality amount of tune-age.

Yep that is good news..
Finally my jobs starting to give me hours back so im almost back to normal also; also starting a new job next week(that is actually associated with my major), so ill be double timing it again. I can not wait to graduate in May, im counting down the days(52days of clinic left, no more class)

Huge update!!!
 

I have a new project coming this spring for my 22nd Birthday in March

1.)Im buying Zulus motor thats rated at 400 hp + motor mounts

2.)still deciding to upgrade the turbo or not need help with ths one + Injectors "maybe 1000cc like what Demon has"

3.) Buying a Fuel Pressure Regulator

4.) Buying an evo 8/9 Throttle body

5.) Moving Battery

6.) Doing a full interior "except dashboard and flooring" To evo 8 style including seats

7.) Getting rims as well heres a link http://www.kdperformance.com/Fabrica...brl_grande.jpg
there going to be all black.

8.) EDIT** stage 3 racing clutch

Is there anything else I need to do

GOAL IS TO HIT 350-375 HP,

after this is done then I will keep the car for another year and buy my Evo 8

Woo!! this sounds exciting! Does the Evo8 or 9 TB simple bolt on to our motor? or what kind of mods do we need to do to make it fit, im interested in this! :mitsu: I also need to move my battery to the trunk or what ill prob do is get the evo bat tray and move it there so i can fit a more proper intake setup than what im running now, it basically has a 90* bend where the batt is and the filter almost touches the friggin fire wall lol. maybe ill hear her spool louder too, since it will be comin right off the turbo like most people have it! :-)