good job man...comin out really nice...

IMO i think you should relocate the battery to the trunk and use an Evo intake so your filter sits behind your headlight instead of the back where the air is more warm...you can get a battery box from wal-mart and a pair of jumper cables if you wanna take the cheap/affordable route...but either way godo job though :mitsu:

MAY THE BOOST BE WITH YOU!!!

I agree or get the evo battery tray , all you need is to drill one hole in it and bolt it down, that'll leave you open for an evo intake setup and you'll be much happier , it fits perfect and bolts down in the 2 bolts over the trans mount and one on top...

I thought you had the tactrix cable steven?? thats likely why I cant open your rom , do you know what there using as far as a flashing cable at the shop?

drill a hole where? i have the evo battery tray and i didnt have to drill or tap any holes.....

there using ecu flash just like us, they tune evos and subarus here. I will be buying my tactrix cable probably next month

ok guys im at the shop again I didnt have to work till 3 it took me two hours to hook everything back up again so I will see how she runs with me tightening everything down so I will be starting the car as soon as they hurry up and flash my car with 03lances rom,

What torque is everyone tightening the banjo to, just until it "feels" tight, or is there a manual for the evo that tells an exact ft/lbs

Which one, his 5psi or 10 psi map? I actually like his 10 better, it looks cleaner and more well tested. I'm betting that each time you tune again....the map fits the car more, as that probably comes with experience.

I think my current 10psi map is much better overall but it is setup with my evo maf as well. You shouldn't have any idling issues with either of those maps steven.

Still having oil leaks mainly the oil feed its leaking pretty bad I'm using the ebay oil sandwhich adapter that can with line for the 12 mm banjo nut and I'm still using the stock banjo,nut as well can someone tell me a better way to do it maybe?

I'm using the stock banjo bolt from the turbo can someone post pics so i,can stop having oil leaks

Something there is not sitting flush if its leaking. Mine has been dry from day one. Can you tell if its leaking from the banjo bolt or from feed line where it connects to the banjo fitting?

I think if you follow what 03 is asking, about the braided like connecting to the banjo leaking or if it's where the banjo bolts on to the turbo, the next step is "why".

The banjo uses crush washers, did you re-use those? does anyone know if they can/should be reused or replaced? I'd say swap those out with the ones from the ebay banjo fitting. Also, can you tell if it's the banjo bolt leaking or the crush washers, like ...where exactly (insert pic here?)

It goes like this though:

Banjo bolt starts here.........|======|
then washer........................-----------
then the banjo fitting..........(======)-------------->
then washer........................-----------
then the turbo....................______________

Which spot does it actually leak from?

do you have a copper wahser there between the turbo and the feed line? that could cause it to leak......


josh

ya.. try new washers.. more then likly u will need to run by an OIL CHANGE place and see if they will give u 2 copper crush washers.. i never had any luck at any local parts strore for copper cursh washers.. they are 1 USE ONLY.. once u tighten down, thats it! leave them tight and never remove without replacing.

it kind of looks like from the bottom I cant rally tell because the manifold is in the way, but the oil kind of leaks and drips down the the right side of the turbo if your looking at the engine, I will buy new crush washers and see if that does the trick hopefully it does I got till friday to get this car done before I leave

I was actually reusing the washers so that might be the problem anyone know where I can get two at?

actually tell me which store might carry them or better yet a auto dealer :crap:

I just need 2 soft copper crush washers, and what size I need for the stock evo 8 turbo... I need them tomorrow asap because im off all day and it will be my last chance to actually work on the car before I leave

yur local auto parts store should have some. i know we do where i work.

josh

they are normal 12mm crush washers...make sure you get copper ones , alot of cars switched to rubber ringed and teflon sealing washers on the oil drain plug they will not work at all...if you have an advance or autozone they come in the help section in an assortment , the banjo bolt gets bolted down to 23 ft. lbs....

off topic but I dont think the sandwich feed adapter is ok to use in this situation problem is the incredibly low psi at idle , couple that with having to flow through a paper filter and long line to hit the turbo , its probably 2 psi at idle not enough to feed hot turbo bearings...

I suggest removing the 3/8 bspt allen plug above the filter its an 8mm allen and replacing it with a 90 degree 3/8" bspt to 1/4" jic fitting , jic 1/4" is identical to a -4 an fitting with the same 37 degree taper that AN fittings use...

the fitting is not 3/8" NPT contrary to popular belief it is labeled as bspt(british tapered),mitsubishi,komatsu threads and is specific to most japanese cars and obviously mitsubishi...the boss is so thin using an 3/8" npt will crack it , if you need one Pm me {thumbup}

Is that like 2 psi from the filter to the turbo? Cause my oil pressure gauge shows 20-30psi at idle when the car is fully warmed up.

Well crap then... this is what i have sitting in my office, because kungfu's build thread said 3/8th npt. So, it's not the same and I need a new one then, ya? how much buddy?

I would do this but its kinda too late I sealed the oil pan and the oil adapter wont budge from that spot. Like it fits snug in there and will only move about half an inch down and then its stuck, I didnt buy the one thats half a circle but I bought the one that is kinda like a hexagon. But thanks for letting me know what kind of washers I needed and how many pounds of torque I think that was my problem to begin with.

so heres whats going down tomorrow, heading up to autozone im going to buy my 2 soft crush copper washers, and im going to undo the turbo once more and torque this hoe down and this should offically stop my leak, I dont mind a minor leak from the return because I can always work on that later at my house but I need the car to get to my house because its a 30 min drive from my home to that shop and if I cant get done by tomorrow then im I have tilll friday at 3:00 pm then its time to head to wisconsin, and then I can chill with josh for a few hours in his lancer and show me what im missing when I get back home. so friday morning I will let you guys know if this worked or not but I have a great feeling it will....{thumbup}

haha should have stuck with the adapter because then you can always add an oil press gauge, it shouldn t cost you more than 30 bucks just buy looking at it on 03lances thread, because you probably have to get a feed line for that as well

ya let me know when yur gonna be in the area... i gotta get stuff up to the shop to be cleaned and planed for the rex!

josh

where do you work at to get those washers? I might have to get some if we have that store down here, can I get any copper crush washers?

I think your gauge is bad bro

Standard value:
At idle: 29 kPa (4.2 psi) or more

At 3,500 r/min: 294 − 686 kPa (43 − 100 psi) <-mitsu service manual specs

Normal that Ive seen at mitsu while fixing these cars is no higher then 17 psi if that at a hot idle ...

Anderson, I know people have been using the npt fitting , probably didnt know about the bspt fittings , haha .
you wont get a proper thread engagement on the 3/8" part , I'll pm you with the info , its only about $14 shipped for the correct one

i work a t a wisconsin based auto parts store. so unfortunaltley they are not down bu where u live...

This is factory stock spec. Also it sounds to me like 4.7 is the absolute bottom you want to be at. My car is not stock and am running a Much Much heavier oil being turbo'd. I dont think my gauge is bad its brand new. Its around 70 psi at cruising. Anybody else have an oil pressure gauge that can chime in?

ditto ^ mines the same so i dont think its bad

Oye, that thread size turbolancer quoted for the hex nut is WICKED rare. I asked the "hydrolic" place up the street from my office if they had it, and they don't. They have 3/8bspt to 38/jic, and then a 3/8jic to 1/4jic...so I'll go grab that and see how it feels. For 8 bucks or whatever, it should be fine.

Like steven said...oil sandwich might be nice. The thing that worries me there though, is what happens when you change your oil, is there a chance of loosening the sandwich? I'm thinking as far as an oil pressure gauge later, I can just T my hex nut spot and add it there. Basically the same as the sandwich.

When you said "I would do this, but it's too late, I sealed the pan and the adaptor won't budge from that spot"....what did you mean? I was thrown off I guess, with talk of the sending, and the oil pan being the return. Also...........any thoughts on below the filter vs that hex nut? I think what turbo was saying is the oil has to be pulled through the paper filter, that happens at either spot, right? sandwich vs that nut.

I got to thinking and whatever my oil pressure gauge is reading is obviously what is going through my feed line as well since its coming off the same set of ports so I'm good there. I understand what turbolancer is saying but I know I'm good there. As far as the adapter coming off when changing oil goes if you did it correct there's no way that will happen. You put the filter on snug hand tight where the adapter is much tighter using a wrench to secure it down.

my oil pressure is the same and i just put in a new greddy a few months ago...


josh - now its D-DAY for the subie!

GREAT NEWS!!! IM TURBOED its so sweet you can hear the turbo spool up, I havent boosted yet because everything is pretty much still getting used to running, plus 03 lance your tune is actually letting my car run but it seems like when I accelerate it wont go any higher? not sure why but we will see in about a week when I get the car used to running with the turbo, I will post pics of my setup tomorrow plus the front bumper has to go on anyways so thank you to everyone for making my dream possible of driving and owning my first turbocharged car!!! And If I need anything else with my car I will make sure to ask people, next steps now is a tactrix cable, window tint, alarm system and then rims and im done with the car officially!!!

hey im also having some problems with my greddy oil pressure gauge? its not moving for some reason but it lights up? I screwed it in the oil sandwhich adapter, pluged it in, and it didnt move? not sure why but I will double check everything tomorrow

Did you possibly hook the wires up backwards? I know I almost did it confused me for a second at first. What do you mean by it wont go any higher?

+1... :confused:

did you happen by chance cut and splice the wire that goes from the sensor to the gauge? i did that and i had to get a new wire...


josh

dang it yes I did...:crap: it was to big to fit through the small gromet under the dash... well I pretty much suck now

like it feels like it bogs down or something, or maybe I was babying the car kinda scared to boost it, but everything seems to be running pretty normal, I have a check engine light but thats because of the o2 sensor on the bottom is taken off becuase I had the guy weld the bung to close to the bottom of the car... cant really explain it, maybe I take the car a little faster than today just to see where I stand at with your tune. hopefully the tune is starting to mesh together

Youre never done with the car...

If I may urge you not to push it at all until you get your cable and can actually see what your engine is doing. You may seem to think its running pretty good and peppy but the fact is you have never felt your car with a turbo and coud really not be doing to well and you might not even notice. This is one of the reasons I had my cable long before I went turbo so I was not tempted to do this without being informed of my engine info

From what I've read, I'm really onboard with what 03lances says. People are running 10 psi on our cars safely, but only because of meticulous tuning. If you have a sloppy tune that isn't meant for your car, or you use an FMU or something like that that is just an approx of what your fuel should do....you're not safe.

Without sounding like your mommy..."No wide open throttle until you get the tune personalized, can see the knock, and can log the AFRs"

*EDIT* oh crap, I forgot. GRATZ on the TURBO!!!

well im taking it really easy on the car right now until I get my tactrix cable im not boosting and im keeping my vacumn in between 10-to 22 when im driving, I have really good vacumn but thats the reason im nervous to push it, which tactrix cable should I buy?

You can push the car a little higher in vacuum. All you need to do is keep the ECU out of open loop. If you keep your shifts below 3500 or so and keep the throttle below 50% and you'll be fine.

so what exactly is open loop, and what do you suggest I do so I can drive her normally?

There is good threads on this, I think in 03lances thread.

The ECU can run in open loop or closed loop.

While in closed loop, the engine uses the narrowband o2 sensor to make adjustments to the AFR constantly striving for 14.7. I don't know that the engine actually stays at 14.7 because in the fuel map tables, a setting of 14.7 does not mean the car will be at 14.7, it's just a number.

While in open loop, the engine is following the fuel maps you have in your rom, without adjusting via the o2 sensor. This is where the true power comes from, meaning once the turbo spools, you get that dense compressed air going in to the engine, so you can inject more gas as well. more hp's, but with the chance of blowing your engine to many pieces.

Basically everything else still applies, if there is knock, timing gets pulled and all that. So, there are tables that tell the ECU when to go open loop though, based on ecuload or throttle position methinks. 03lances maps had that, if you just blindly flashed his info in. If you edited your map to contain his map and timing, then you may not have the openloop thresholds.

Basically, without that tactrix cable or someone knowledgable tuning the car, you shouldn't go over 3500 rpm's, not even to impress an extra hot chick (or dude, not in a weird way, just no macho stuff). Without knowing what's in there, what's going on, and what the ecu is currently set to do....danger follows you. Take this time while you're waiting to get the cable to read up on the forums about ecutuning. Check the "how to tune an evo" thread, realizing your car is not an evo and should not be identical in tuning practice. Give the links a good read that HobieKopek posted a while back on general EFI tuning advice.

What is your wideband reading right now btw? Just idling and cruising around....not doing hard acceleration or anything.

I dont know for a fact I have to plug in the O2 sensor plugged in because theres not enough room I have to get another O2 bung welded in so I can use the O2 sensor, do you think the car could be running like crap because the O2 sensor is not plugged in?

I think it uses the front one to adjust AFR and the rear one to check the efficiency of the front cat, so if the front one is there it ought to run normal in "safe" driving conditions. If it runs like crap when you floor it, which you shouldn't be, but if it does....then that's probably a fuel map problem. A bad one at that, because without logging data you can run rich or lean by a few afr and not be able to tell without a wideband.....and yet still do massive damage to the car.

*edit* without a wideband though, you don't know if your engine is doing terrible things to itself. Without logging knock you don't know if you are going nutz on the pistons and rods. without logging fuel trims you don't know if you are maxing out your fuel adjustments via the ecu due to poor latency or injector scaling. All of these things are required to make sure the tune is nice and sexy for your specific car.

I guess my question is this then, are you just waiting to get the tactrix cable due to money? or because you want to see if you "really need it" before spending money on it. Because if you can't afford one, I understand that...I've got money problems myself, but if you just don't think it's that important, I'd say next to the actual turbo itself it may be one of the most important pieces of the puzzle.

*notha edit* What do you mean it runs like crap? bad idle? bad cruising? feel like it's going to stall when you decel?

like I try to accell lightly and when I get ready to shift I feel like the brakes have been applied very lightly but the engine doesnt cut out, I think there might be too much fuel in the engine when I het a certain amount of rpms not sure but when I get money for the cable I will start logging and tell you guys whats up so we can get this car tuned

exhaust cut and welded the exhaust flange where your O2 snesor is down not bolt directly up to the evo 8 downpipe...

Attachment 311953

new flange welded on to fit my test pipe

Attachment 311954

pics of downpipe and licp
Attachment 311955

turbo manifold was silver, but the heat just change the color it still looks sweet
Attachment 311956

front bumper went on today
Attachment 311957

90 degree elbow for air filter
Attachment 311958

evo 9 bov highly recommended than the plastic one
Attachment 311959

I need another hose that bends out the way of the radiator pipe but it still connects on
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2..._/IMAG0027.jpg

make sure you bend that little hose out the way or grind some of the O2 housing down where the downpipe connects to the housing
Attachment 311960

beautiful manifold from speedcorps!!!
Attachment 311961

teed vacumn lines
Attachment 311962

my wholeset up looks pretty good to me
Attachment 311963

It's just so pretty!!!! So you have your intake vac/boost going to the t's, where it runs to a boost gauge and your bov, and the fpr. Is your WGA hooked to your nipple on the jpipe?

So, about the rough running, your injectors are scaled and the latency updated, right? Any by accel, you're talking less than 3500 rpms and the throttle less than half way pressed, right? It's really tough to know though, you know...the guys who did the tune, or flashed the tune, did they know about mitsu's and custom jobs and what not, I mean I assume if they had a tactrix cable the do.

update your "I drive a 2002 es" to say it's an "ES-T" lol, you know you want to!

lol I will, well I been drving her really easy but she runs good, I just need to get those maps scaled, speedcorps is working on my tune now and trying to turn it into a hex file so I can flash it.

flip the bov around. You want to pressure to come to the side of the valve and not the bottom. Functions much better that way

So what rom are you using steven? Tephra mod?

flip it around? the backpressure from the turbo is going to be where all the piping connects together, and the little cylinder piece is where it pushes up, which releases the pressure to the intake tube... I think its fine the way it is now. other wise the pressure will just push against the bov where the pressure will just build up and not release causing compressor surge


Im using a flash that someone else modded for thier car which worked great for them, I have to tweak it to be able to boost the car, but speed corps is building a rom for me not sure what kind but he said this was built for my car. Each person that tunes has to have a good certain way to tune the car to make it run the way you want it to

Incorrect. Having the pressure to the side of the valve instead of the bottom requires less spring tension for the valve to stay closed and gives a faster reaction. It is how stock and aftermarket valves are setup.

Steven I think I know what's happening. I can't remember exactly but this was one of the problems I was still working on in this tune. I think I had the open loop thresholds set too low and so under very mild acceleration even just a spirited stoplight takeoff it would go into open loop too soon before hitting boost and dump that extra fuel too early causing the loss in power you are experiencing

so you guys are using closed loop as a forced 14.7 AFR point?

To be honest I have my open loop load on my SD evo here set to 10 load for anything above 1000rpm. Drives fine with a perfect 14.7 AFR even if i have the AC blasting.

Something doesn't seem right to me if thats going on like the injectors aren't scaled right or the maf is tweaking out.

Yup, this is my worry that something is off but you can't tell without logs. I think you could get that cable from the tuner for a bit, take some logs, and then do a basic tune in areas that require it? That would at least let you get something to post on here for us all to see and you could make sure you aren't getting weird fuel trims, like pegging them 1 way or the other.

I think thats exactly what's going on any clue on how to change the loads? I got ecu flash to work now

And I'm leaking oil there is my cool update I think i burnt a hole in my feed.line because it was touching the O2 housing so I need to buy another line

And can anyone tell me in my pics is my bov the right way?

Its hard to say. If you were running an evo maf I could send you my current tune which has alot of things fixed. All in all the tune worked pretty good for me although every tune has its issues. I put a hose clamp around an ic pipe and used that to keep the feed line away from danger. Its not tight by any means dont wanna pinch that guy but just helps to keep it from going where ever. Your bov is setup the same as mine only difference is you have the longer tube coming from the recirc pipe and I have it coming off the intake pipe.

Kinda off topic I had an interesting day went to ride my quad with a buddy and rode for 5 mins then spent 3 hours winching it outta the 40ft cliff I tumbled down with it. :lol::lol::lol: Its only funny since I am fine other than a bruised leg and so is the quad but man I am good at pulling that kinda crap.

Steven as soon as you get your cable and can do some logs not too much we can do for ya. As soon as you do get it send me some logs and i can see what i can do to help ya out {thumbup}

Ok sounds good bro I'm going to hurry and buy that cable its the 1.3 tactrix right?
Sorry about ur quad and your leg lol I'm pretty much a bike guy for obvious reasons,lol jk well at least no one was seriously hurt. Yeah send me your current tune and I will compare the maps and change the fuel loads but not the maf settings maybe that will help

Anyone know where I can buy another oil feed line from? I also need to buy crush washers as well so hopefully the same company. i have that banjo nut i forgot what size it was

cool

Don't forget to run a boost leak test before you even start ANY tuning. I don't know about your throttle body, but the shaft seals on my IX were toast. They were leaking like a mofo! I only went up to 5 psi when I was testing it cause they were hissing so loud. I could only imagine how much air was leaking at 30 psi!:eek:

everything is pretty much tight I never heard a hissing noise when im driving, but I need to buy a new oil line... What size is the an size for the oil feed banjo, and how long does the line need to be?

You have to do it when the car is off. And you would have to have a serious boost leak to hear it when you are driving around.

Hey, I got a question. I made a "homemade boost leak tester" out of some PVC pipe ends and a pneumatic tool attachment. One end is solid, and I put it place of the throttle body where the IC pipes connect. The other end I put on the intake side of the IC piping. I did all of this for testing the used intercooler I bought, so I could know if it was toast before installing it.

My question is this though, once the car is all setup (i'm still collecting pieces) how do you test for a boost leak. Do you disconnect at the throttle body and cap that end, then connect the pressurized source to the turbo inlet, the airfilters connection, the spot the jpipe connects, or what?

Also, obviously I only presurize as much as you'll boost or a little more, not like 40 psi or anything.

I bought the OP 2.0 and I think it was the wrong decision, you should get the 1.3. My reasoning was "well it'll be more useful if I buy another mitsu or a subie or something because 2.0 has more compatability"....but, from what I can tell there is a ton more overhead that goes into using the OP2.0, so if you can get away with a 1.3...you should. We can, so I say save 40 bucks or whatever, get the 1.3u with a reflash connector and ecuflash serial number built in or whatever.

Just my knowledge after owning the "cable" for 1 day, lol.

Oh, I also thought, "hey, cool, logging without a usb cable" but I don't know how that works, and I don't really see a huge need for that, since most people aren't constantly logging anyways....they tune, and log, then they just drive. Every so often a retune, but no reason to go 2.0.

You cant use my current tune as since I have the evo maf my loads I am hitting are 182 max. This means I am not even starting to retard timing or richen up the afrs until like 120 load which is already past your max :crap:

so does anyone know what size feed line I need again? I need to buy another one, and also to keep it away from the turbo cant you just use metal clamps or zip ties and use those to put it near the radiator pipe near the turbo and work the line around to the sandwich adapter/hex bolt? I might do that but I dont know if that pipe gets pretty hot to melt the outside of the line? Just need a clever way to save money on lines and stop burning them up

You leave it all connected. Obviously its only pressurized from the turbo on so you dicconnect your intake/filter pipe connecting to your turbo inlet and connect your testor on there leaving it connected all the way to the engine. This way you can test every connection from the turbo J-pipe all the way to where your intake manifold connects to your head for leaks. I believe they mention to remove your BOV and plug the hole.

Steven I used these guys to have my feed line made.
http://www.houseofhose.com/ Top quality fittings and line and very good prices I will use these guys again. Matter of fact already have to have custom tranny cooler lines made for a guys cougar I worked on lol. Tried to search through my thread for my feed line specs but that alot of pages and I have to leave for work now I will keep looking after work unless someone give you an answer

ok sounds good just let me know what the thread size is I can always measure mine with a ruler and buy the same line. I think its 1/8 pt but not sure for a fact. Can you zip tie or use a metal clamp to put your feed line next to the radiator pipe to prevent a burn? Just need to know!

What size is the connection on your oil sandwich? I'm going to do what 03lances did using a hose clamp to keep the oil from the heat.

My oil hose is 4an to 90degree 4an, but get whatever fits on your oil sandwich to banjo...ii got mine the same size to keep it standard.

03lance I think its a 4an size which should be equal to 1/8 npt... now I just need to know how long does it need to be, and about earlier clamping or zip tie the oil feed to the radiator pipe, I meant WATER PIPE lol, sorry does the water pipe get hot and will it melt another hole in the feed line? I figured why not use a clamp and create enough slack to keep the oil feed line away from the turbo so im not having issues or just secure it either way.

I have to order an O2 sensor plug, and order another bung, I have to move the O2 sensor now bcause there is no room to screw it in at

I have searched through about 30 pages and maybe I am missing it lol. I am pretty positive my line is 4 feet.

LOL I looked through 40 pages and kinda have up but 4 feet should be good do you know I'd.the water pipe will be extremely hot?

DElete

Do you mean the hard pipe coming across the by the turbo? I would not attach anything by there. If you mean the lower radiator hose then no it wont melt it.

YEah the piece of turbo you have to grind down so it doesnt touch the turbo looks like I need to find another way then

With a 4 foot line it should be perfect length for you to secure it to the IC pipe that connects to your J pipe that will keep it out of the way of everything.

hey can anyone tell me a good way to make the oil feed line a little better than I have it? im trying to get it to where I dont burn another freaking hole in it and leak oil. I heard that you can use -an fittings... I have a sandwhich adapter to so if anyone can tell me the best way or post up some pics it would be a great appreciate

actually the only thing I need is to connect the oil feed line to the turbo, like that 90 degree bend a majority of people have. I just need the fiitting so I can screw it in the turbo. Where can I buy that from

Could you not get ahold of some of the copper washers? Or did you just decide to go another route? I have not had a single issue with mine :confused:

I was able to get the washers and I found the hole I burnt in the line so that pretty much killed driving for a week

OK im buying the oil feed line today, I started her up yesterday and I couldnt believe that in 8 days of my trip I had no oil and coolant in the car... So I replenished everything back in the car and she started right up...

Ok my oil sandwhich adapter is 1/8 npt, and I have a 10 or a 12mm -4an banjo bolt, I think its a 12 mm im not sure but here are my line choices so I need you to tell me which one to get unless you know a different place that can make one for the same price or a little cheaper. I prefer the 90 degree bend that connects to the turbo so if you know where those are at let me know.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

http://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-Univer...887232&sr=8-32

03lance how much did they charge you for your oil feed line with house of hose? I need to buy one tonight so if you have any good choices just post the selected link in another comment box so I can drive my car by this wednesday

When I called them I gave them my specs, SS braided 4 foot oil resistant hose, 1/8npt male end and the -4an female end. The dude told me what size line I would need according to the ends I was getting as I cant recall off the top of my head. It was $25 shipped to my door.

36" is too short you want 4 foot it was perfect length for mee with a little extra to route it however I wanted to.

well this is what i bought theres 2 -4an females and I already have the 1/8th npt adapter that connects to the female and I got the 4 foot so I think im good

here it is

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

so it should be here within 3 days. plus I needed the 90 degree because I was worried the straight part would hit the engine block

That line is what I got too. It's not like, super high quality, but it feels plenty good.

saweet!!! it should be coming in a couple days then I can start driving the car

OK so its been 4 days and we have NO INTERNET AT MY HOUSE!!! AHHHHHHH what am I suppose to do? well anyways I got my oil feed line in and it works like a charm no more burnt line gracias lol... I was leaking coolant but it just needed to be tightened.

Updates with the rom
03lance your rom is making me run rich like a motha.... Im having afrs as low as 10.0 when im idling but then it goes back up to high 13 and 14s sometimes 15.5 at the most everytime I get close to boost it runs really rich so looks like theres no boosting for me until I get my tune done but it still runs pretty good. Still trying to learn this tuning thing and its difficult even reading that 100 page evo tuning pdf I have is not really helping.

hey how did you regulated the oil pressure from the car to your turbo??

didnt i send you a link for how to tune yur evo using ecuflash video?

Not surprising your having different issues. This was only supposed to be used for a base tune that you could start your tuning from. I never watch the wideband during idle I only watch the fuel trims, this will tell you how close you are. In any case better rich than lean {thumbup}

? I just connected a feed line to it and tightened the line down like 20 pounds of torque it something like that

Yeah I still have them on my desktop its helping but some of the stuff is still difficult

I installed the 440 s and just flashed it on my ecu I figured I might as well flash it and start that for my tuning yeah your exactly right better to run rich

I tell ya, the real part that confuses me, is how to handle such a drastic change. I mean, we turbo the car, then start to tune, and everyone says "small adjustments"....but when you turbo, you've gotta pull like 5 degrees or more of timing from the entire "boost" region, and you've got to richen it up all the way through there too. Without a starting point, which you have with 03's map, it would be hell I think to get it all ironed out. I know the guide to tuning an evo, and the videos are all good but....is the community of turbo lancers too small to make a few guides for us and tuning the turbo specifically a waste of time? I think one real nice how to tune the turbo lancer sticky should happen at some point. Also, once you go pistons/rods, then it's a real tough deal...upping boost until you see serious numbers, and you just keep making the adjustments I guess. But...how do you know what to shoot for, like...20psi or more, where is the line drawn at which you know engine failure will follow? never known, just always out there and when you hit it...you know?