a friend of mine had a 86 aerostar. he took out the 3rd row, and everything from the back seat to the trunk was a sub box. i'm talking width of car, 3 feet high, and trunk to seat. huge, 10 JL 12" subs. that thing had bass. you could put a bass cd on, put the car in neutral, and it would shake itself down the street.

 

TheSeige- Nobody manufactures a custom box for the lancer yet. Q-logic may start if there are enough requests. I bug them every couple days hehe I recommend everyone does.

 

cupOZ,
haha that's awesome, that's how i want my mpv to be! i think it'll be my project for the summer. my dad used to do a lot of sound stuff so he's like go for it it'll be fun to do if i actually do it though. just gotta save up my money now.
-Bob

 

well hank is correct on a few subjects.
1. plywood is stronger than mdf, but it's density doesnt come close to mdf, density helps in keeping the bass inside the box and helps with air leaks through the wood. i would personally never use plywood. i use mdf of hdf. and find out the specs for the subs you use. their cubic ft. size may not be the best for your app. mine say .5 to 1.25 and my box has about 1.65 for each sub. and it sound better now than it did for a 1.1 cubic ft box.
2. as for ported sealed or banpass. it depends of what you want? loud bass on some notes-ported, slightly quieter bass on some and louder on others( 1 to 2 db quieter and up to 5 db louder)- sealed, and as for banpass- i dont like them and dont recommend, bass is hard but not nearly as clean and crisp.
3. drywall screws arent needed 1 1/2" work great and definetely use either liquid nail or silicone sealant in the seams and on adjoining corners. some say that you cant use liquid nail cause its not the right stuff and silicone flexes. well you dont want it to flex and the both do the same thing. and liquid nail is easier to use, much easier. i have a custom box that would cost over 500 at a shop and not many people know how to do what we did to mine. custom boxes are very difficult to get right. i hope this was some help. good luck with your box!

 

yea, here's my plan. of course, ill have the box with the recommended volume. but ill get MDF and then im going to paint it over with some gloss that soak into the wood. this should eliminate almost all of the holes in the board.

but i have a question, what if a sub's recommended enclosure volume is say..1.25 cu ft and i make a 1.75 cu ft enclosure? wood it sound bad, if so what could be done to make it more of the ideal volume?
-Bob

 

they usually give a range for the volume of the box. you want to keep in that range. it's important not to make it bigger to get the maximum bass response out of the particular sub. go with what the manufacturer reccomends. making it a little bigger probably won't make much of a difference.....but you could always fill a bigger box with some material to shrink the internal volume down to spec.

 

u know waht, im just gonna make the box the recommended size dont really wanna go through all the hassle of resonance and stuff like that..
-Bob

 

good idea.

 

I'm not trying to start a pissing match here with these arguments, but I'd just like to set the record straight. There are 2 schools of thought on the Plywood vs. MDF argument. And it all comes down to weight and expense. MDF is a denser wood-based product, hence less likely to be resonated by the bass. Plywood, on the other hand, is far more rigid. They're almost dead equal in losses and vibrations in a properly designed and implimented box. The only real differences come down to how much it weighs (plywood is lighter) how expensive it is (MDF is usually quite a bit cheaper) how easy it is to work with (MDF is generally considered easiest) and how well it will weather (Plywood weathers best). Now we can basically eliminate the weather argument because the small amounts of water that may contact the box aren't gonna do a damned thing. So basically, on the cost and ease of work fronts, MDF is a winner. I however still like to use a nice plywood for a few less looked at reasons; finishing ease for example. If done properly, you can make a box that shows no layers, and then just give it a light sanding and a coat of poly. Not too many guys have a nice oak or cherry sub enclosure, so it's unique.

I suppose what I'm saying is they'll both work just fine.

Just as a final note, the airleak thing though the wood? AC, UL, and Cabinet grade woods are all void free, and even if there were voids 7 layers of wood is a lot of wood to go through. I wouldn't really worry about it.

 

i thought of doing a custom stereo setup wanted to cut out the middle of the backseat and due a nice fiberglass setup with some coustic 10's 2 to be precise (SP?) they come in a nice yellow an CF witha nice sound to only thing is it would b rather expensevo talked to my guys at audio connection out here in jersey prolly looking at atleast $1200 just for the fiberglass n getting the seats re appolsterd (SP?) the amp setups would all prolly go into the trunk of course an i haven't made a decesion on a head unit yet though and my system will prolly b the lastthing i do other then a new (HU)