custom enclosure
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From: Park Ridge, IL
custom enclosure
has anyone made one themselves? i wanna know like what to look for and stuff..i dunno if i want to make one or buy one when i get the money. so i wanna hear from someone who's made an enclosure themselves. thanks!
-Bob
-Bob
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yea, for subs. square box. i just wanna know like what u're "supposed" to do and stuff. i dunno what to ask really..so i just wanna know if anyone made them and how and what they considered!
-Bob
-Bob
I have made them in the past out of 3/4 " MDF and filled it with polyfill and put carpet to match my car on the outside. I made it to the specs (for internal air space) of my subs and they sounded great. I did some heavy wood working to get the corners milled together (not just glue) so that the box was stronger and less likely to flex, thus loosing some UMPH from the sub.
Now I am working on a pair of stealths for each side of my trunk for a ten in each.
hth
Now I am working on a pair of stealths for each side of my trunk for a ten in each.
hth
I'd love to see a pair of stealths that would fit in them little damn cubbyholes we have near the back of the trunk. I'm assuming thats what you are talking about since they would probably hold a 10, maybe a 12 rather nicely. If so I'd love to see pics when done and possibly a howto if all works out..
I will keep that in mind as I start so that I document it with photos and such. Gonna take time though as wife is none so happy with me right now =) and supplies for the box arent free hehehe
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From: Park Ridge, IL
cool. im asking cause i have this old old van (89 mazda mpv aka "the ghetto van"
) and i was thinking about taking out the middle seat and putting 2 or 3 subs with a big enclosure in where the seat used to be 
-Bob
) and i was thinking about taking out the middle seat and putting 2 or 3 subs with a big enclosure in where the seat used to be 
-Bob
Bob,
why not i have seen weirder. Just find out what the space requirement for your sub is before you make the box and make the box to fit the sub. In the world of subs one size does not fit all. Also decide if you want a sealed, ported or bandpass box.
there my $.02
why not i have seen weirder. Just find out what the space requirement for your sub is before you make the box and make the box to fit the sub. In the world of subs one size does not fit all. Also decide if you want a sealed, ported or bandpass box.
there my $.02
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thanks for your insight Guru_Del! ill PM you if i ever go with my plan.
now i have one more car audio questions..should i go for the:
Infinity Reference 652i (2-way)
Kenwood KFC 1677(2-way)
Pioneer TS-A1667 (3-way)
or any other u recommend for 6.5" speakers..
im lookin mostly for good bass/midrange and decent highs. i already have tweeters so highs isnt as important. and i want to spend less than 70 or so bucks. thanks!
-Bob
EDIT: oh yea, i have a Kenwood KDC-215s headunit that outputs 22 watts RMS and 45 watts at peak..hope that helps.
now i have one more car audio questions..should i go for the:
Infinity Reference 652i (2-way)
Kenwood KFC 1677(2-way)
Pioneer TS-A1667 (3-way)
or any other u recommend for 6.5" speakers..
im lookin mostly for good bass/midrange and decent highs. i already have tweeters so highs isnt as important. and i want to spend less than 70 or so bucks. thanks!
-Bob
EDIT: oh yea, i have a Kenwood KDC-215s headunit that outputs 22 watts RMS and 45 watts at peak..hope that helps.
Last edited by bobaab; Jan 17, 2003 at 05:16 PM.
Okay, basic needs for a box.
- At least 1 sheet of plywood, or MDF (depending on what is cheaper, and what you'd rather use.) Now I'll probably be flamed for saying plywood, but it's stronger than MDF, and when used properly requires less bracing. I personally use 3/4" cabinet grade woods.
- Glue. There are volumes to be said about different glues and which one is best, and who likes what but personally I like gorilla glue. Though Elmers "Pro Bond" runs a really close race.
- Screws. 1 5/8" coarse thread drywall screws will do quite nicely. IMPORTANT: If using MDF Predrill EVERY SINGLE screw hole. Otherwise you're just setting yourself up for some nasty splitting.
- Tools. Router w/ circle jig would be the best for cutting the baffle, but failing that a jigsaw will do. Just remember, cutting the hole too small is never as bad as cutting it too large. Sandpaper. Talbesaw would be nice, but if you don't have one, ask the people where you picked up your lumber to cut it down for you. Just bring in your measurements. They're usually pretty good about it.
-Optional. Personally I like to use a little fiberglass resin to seal the interior of my boxes, it insures no air leaks anywhere, and gives a nice dense reflective surface. This does add to the cost and weight of the box though... so it's really up to you. However, if you don't do this, you should definately caulk all the screw holes and seams. A little weatherstripping around the sub for mounting isn't a bad idea either.
If anyone can think of anything I may have forgotten... feel free to type it in.
- At least 1 sheet of plywood, or MDF (depending on what is cheaper, and what you'd rather use.) Now I'll probably be flamed for saying plywood, but it's stronger than MDF, and when used properly requires less bracing. I personally use 3/4" cabinet grade woods.
- Glue. There are volumes to be said about different glues and which one is best, and who likes what but personally I like gorilla glue. Though Elmers "Pro Bond" runs a really close race.
- Screws. 1 5/8" coarse thread drywall screws will do quite nicely. IMPORTANT: If using MDF Predrill EVERY SINGLE screw hole. Otherwise you're just setting yourself up for some nasty splitting.
- Tools. Router w/ circle jig would be the best for cutting the baffle, but failing that a jigsaw will do. Just remember, cutting the hole too small is never as bad as cutting it too large. Sandpaper. Talbesaw would be nice, but if you don't have one, ask the people where you picked up your lumber to cut it down for you. Just bring in your measurements. They're usually pretty good about it.
-Optional. Personally I like to use a little fiberglass resin to seal the interior of my boxes, it insures no air leaks anywhere, and gives a nice dense reflective surface. This does add to the cost and weight of the box though... so it's really up to you. However, if you don't do this, you should definately caulk all the screw holes and seams. A little weatherstripping around the sub for mounting isn't a bad idea either.
If anyone can think of anything I may have forgotten... feel free to type it in.


