JL audio, just how good is it?
Originally Posted by TwStDeVo
wow im relieved. most people in car audio forums and overall stereo guys usually say bad things about mtx. i am very happy with the amp and can see what you are saying. at first i had 2 9500 12s ported running off of them and they sounded amazingly perfect. the reason i took them out is the box was huge and took up all of my trunk, plus each subs weighs over 50lbs! so i decided to put one in the spare tire well angling back towards the trunk (not fully facing back, its firing at 45 degrees or so in a ported box. it does not sound loud at all right now and thats why im looking for a change. do you think it might be the box and way its firing? also what set up do you recommend for the box(sealed or ported)?
i am possibly looking for another sub. since i have a 1500watt amp, i figure its not worth it to only use 750 for my one 12. what do you think about the orion hcca 12? i used to have one in my last car and it sounded very good, not sure how the new ones sound since there are no dealers near me. any other subs you recommend for the 1500watts? either one 12, 15(hcca 1500watt box seems smaller than normal 15s), or 2 10s that can handle 750watts.
i am possibly looking for another sub. since i have a 1500watt amp, i figure its not worth it to only use 750 for my one 12. what do you think about the orion hcca 12? i used to have one in my last car and it sounded very good, not sure how the new ones sound since there are no dealers near me. any other subs you recommend for the 1500watts? either one 12, 15(hcca 1500watt box seems smaller than normal 15s), or 2 10s that can handle 750watts.
Last edited by evo_rc; Aug 16, 2005 at 11:56 PM.
I hear lots of JL audio stuff when I go to HIN.. it sounds like its good quality and loud, but it doesn't seem as tight/in-tune as some other subs.. I dunno. I like my Polk-MOMO's.. they do me justice and have really tight accurate responce that is on que with the frequency its supposed to be at, not just big booms.
Originally Posted by evo_rc
1500 watts whoooo thats strong, the question is do u really want to use all that power and have more rattle in the trunk??? I would recommend just use 3/4 of the power. I would def. go with sealed boxes. If the subs are strong enough, Sealed boxes will be good enough. If you really like deep bass go with one 12( Im sure there are subs out there that can handle 1000 rms), I wouldnt put 2 12s thats too heavy. Or two 10s =Louder bass but not as deep as 12s. Just get 2 10s' that can stand 500 watts rms each.TO me that is already loud. My two 10s only gets 250 watts rms each. And they are pounding pretty good. Also if you want more bass, subs facing away your car will hit harder than a sub facing up your trunk.
Originally Posted by TwStDeVo
what subs would you recommend for either one 12 or 2 10s? so far im considering kicker L7, infinity kappa, mtx 8500 or 9500, alpine type r or x, orion hcca, adire audio, eclipse titanium. is there any other sub you would choose? also, i want the loudest set up possible so should i get one high powered (1000-1500watt) 12 or 2 mild to high powered 10s(500-750watts each)? would a sealed box accomplish what i am looking for or would ported be better? btw, thanks for your help, i have been looking for advice for a while now from someone that knows their stuff.
In my opinion if you want loud bass, I recommend getting 2 10s rather than one high powered 12s. Sure 12s are deeper in bass but u said you want loud bass so 2 10s will definitely hit. I had 1 12s infinity perfect before and it kept blowin up and the bass wasnt that strong enough, after gettin two 10s it pounded louder and harder. I would go with 2 10s(mtxs or alpines) high powered or mild...but if you want to save room also one kicker L7 will also do the job
Last edited by evo_rc; Aug 17, 2005 at 11:14 AM.
Originally Posted by evo_rc
In my opinion if you want loud bass, I recommend getting 2 10s rather than one high powered 12s. Sure 12s are deeper in bass but u said you want loud bass so 2 10s will definitely hit. I had 1 12s infinity perfect before and it kept blowin up and the bass wasnt that strong enough, after gettin two 10s it pounded louder and harder. I would go with 2 10s(mtxs or alpines) high powered or mild...but if you want to save room also one kicker L7 will also do the job
btw, do you have alot of experience with stereos? im asking because i have some voltage issues that i need to take care of. i got the buschur mini battery and my lights flicker when i turn it up. my safc says i usually get 13.8 volts and can go down to 13.4 or 12.8. i was told that i should look into a stronger alternator, is this true? my other thought is to get the alumapro 5 or 15 farad cap. what do you think?
Originally Posted by SLVROZ_03
Get a battery just for the audio system, that should fix the problem. Haven't heard of anyone offering aftermarket high-amp alts yet...
Originally Posted by TwStDeVo
what about 2 L7s 10s or something in that category? should i go with a ported box for the loudest bass? also, are there any subs that have a small depth which can possibly fit behind the strut bar?
btw, do you have alot of experience with stereos? im asking because i have some voltage issues that i need to take care of. i got the buschur mini battery and my lights flicker when i turn it up. my safc says i usually get 13.8 volts and can go down to 13.4 or 12.8. i was told that i should look into a stronger alternator, is this true? my other thought is to get the alumapro 5 or 15 farad cap. what do you think?
btw, do you have alot of experience with stereos? im asking because i have some voltage issues that i need to take care of. i got the buschur mini battery and my lights flicker when i turn it up. my safc says i usually get 13.8 volts and can go down to 13.4 or 12.8. i was told that i should look into a stronger alternator, is this true? my other thought is to get the alumapro 5 or 15 farad cap. what do you think?
Originally Posted by evo_rc
Yeah ive been doing systems since i was 16 im 21 now, but back then in GA i use to do it as a hobby and a side job. Two L7s 10s will be perfect,will definitely pound. As far as the power issue, your subs or setereo will cause your lights flicker simply because they are wanting more juice. A 1 farad lightning audio or a rockford fosgate will do the job no need for a new alternator that would cost you more money.
i was thinking about 2 mtx 9500 10s in a ported box but the set up would weigh around 167lbs, which seems to be alot. so i think i might go with the kick L7 10s in a ported box if its around 2cf. not sure about the weight of the kickers, maybe 20 pounds or so each, so it would not be too much weight. their rms is 600watts but my amp will give them 750, hopefully that will be ok. what are the loudest 10s or 12s you've heard?
i have a 1.5 farad cap and the lights still flicker. to make it worse, im only using 750watts @ 4 ohms running one 9500 12. so i am not sure what i should do now. do you think buying a cap with more farads would help? thats why im looking at the alumapro 5 or 15 farad cap since i know someone who has a compitition s10 truck with 4 12s and he swears by it saying it makes a world difference and that its the real thing unlike the other so called "high farad" caps like the lightning audio 25 farad cap.
i bought this cap but never used it since my installer (head of installs at a local cartoys) told me that its probably not going to work since its so light and doesnt seem like there is enough inside the thing to hold that much. i have not talked to him in a while since i moved to another state, so im trying to find others with stereo knowledge. the shop (not cartoys) i bought it from swore by it and even called a customer, who could not come to the store at the time, to tell me how it helped his car from flickering to nothing. so i dont know if i should just try it out or wait and either solve the problem another way or get the alumapro cap, which my installer likes (it weighs 8 pounds).
Last edited by TwStDeVo; Aug 17, 2005 at 10:02 PM.
Originally Posted by TwStDeVo
i was thinking about 2 mtx 9500 10s in a ported box but the set up would weigh around 167lbs, which seems to be alot. so i think i might go with the kick L7 10s in a ported box if its around 2cf. not sure about the weight of the kickers, maybe 20 pounds or so each, so it would not be too much weight. their rms is 600watts but my amp will give them 750, hopefully that will be ok. what are the loudest 10s or 12s you've heard?
i have a 1.5 farad cap and the lights still flicker. to make it worse, im only using 750watts @ 4 ohms running one 9500 12. so i am not sure what i should do now. do you think buying a cap with more farads would help? thats why im looking at the alumapro 5 or 15 farad cap since i know someone who has a compitition s10 truck with 4 12s and he swears by it saying it makes a world difference and that its the real thing unlike the other so called "high farad" caps like the lightning audio 25 farad cap.
i bought this cap but never used it since my installer (head of installs at a local cartoys) told me that its probably not going to work since its so light and doesnt seem like there is enough inside the thing to hold that much. i have not talked to him in a while since i moved to another state, so im trying to find others with stereo knowledge. the shop (not cartoys) i bought it from swore by it and even called a customer, who could not come to the store at the time, to tell me how it helped his car from flickering to nothing. so i dont know if i should just try it out or wait and either solve the problem another way or get the alumapro cap, which my installer likes (it weighs 8 pounds).
i have a 1.5 farad cap and the lights still flicker. to make it worse, im only using 750watts @ 4 ohms running one 9500 12. so i am not sure what i should do now. do you think buying a cap with more farads would help? thats why im looking at the alumapro 5 or 15 farad cap since i know someone who has a compitition s10 truck with 4 12s and he swears by it saying it makes a world difference and that its the real thing unlike the other so called "high farad" caps like the lightning audio 25 farad cap.
i bought this cap but never used it since my installer (head of installs at a local cartoys) told me that its probably not going to work since its so light and doesnt seem like there is enough inside the thing to hold that much. i have not talked to him in a while since i moved to another state, so im trying to find others with stereo knowledge. the shop (not cartoys) i bought it from swore by it and even called a customer, who could not come to the store at the time, to tell me how it helped his car from flickering to nothing. so i dont know if i should just try it out or wait and either solve the problem another way or get the alumapro cap, which my installer likes (it weighs 8 pounds).
Originally Posted by matt55
Get a 2nd batt , they are cheaper and you will see greater gains than with a cap ! If weigh is a prod check this batt out ONLY 13.5 lbs http://www.gotbatteries.com/Productp...ctNum=37L105S1 Run a fuse 18" from the front batt and same for the 2nd/rear batt .
it says that the battery is not for motorsports use and use an odessy instead. also, since i have the buschur mini battery, this mini battery would make it like having one full battery? im not sure what the difference between this and the buschur one is, are they the same powerwise? weight is definitely an issue, so this seems like a good idea, just worried about the wires from front to back.
Originally Posted by TwStDeVo
it says that the battery is not for motorsports use and use an odessy instead. also, since i have the buschur mini battery, this mini battery would make it like having one full battery? im not sure what the difference between this and the buschur one is, are they the same powerwise? weight is definitely an issue, so this seems like a good idea, just worried about the wires from front to back.
, not sure about the diff bewteen batts . But the simple fact is BIG power takes a lot of amperage and the alternator/caps ant going to cut it . ie most "class D" amps are 60-80% efficiency so a 100amp alternator can only supply 1400watts of power max , then times that by the amp efficiency =1050 watts soo Little cap's anit goint to cut it . Why are you worried about the wire's front to back ? Shorting out ? if so the front and rear fuse should take of that .
Originally Posted by matt55
Its been motor-sporting in my car for over a year now , not sure about the diff bewteen batts . But the simple fact is BIG power takes a lot of amperage and the alternator/caps ant going to cut it . ie most "class D" amps are 60-80% efficiency so a 100amp alternator can only supply 1400watts of power max , then times that by the amp efficiency =1050 watts soo Little cap's anit goint to cut it . Why are you worried about the wire's front to back ? Shorting out ? if so the front and rear fuse should take of that .
, not sure about the diff bewteen batts . But the simple fact is BIG power takes a lot of amperage and the alternator/caps ant going to cut it . ie most "class D" amps are 60-80% efficiency so a 100amp alternator can only supply 1400watts of power max , then times that by the amp efficiency =1050 watts soo Little cap's anit goint to cut it . Why are you worried about the wire's front to back ? Shorting out ? if so the front and rear fuse should take of that .when i am ready to add this, i will definitely contact you on the details. are you using the set up for a stereo system also?