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Light Weight Subs

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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 07:34 PM
  #16  
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From: 2-5-Third
Anyway to fit another sub into the stock infiniti location?
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 08:00 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by blaze_125
Weight can be reduced mostly by using different material for the box. Use fiberglass instead of 3/4 mdf and you'll shave almost 1/2 the weight of the box.
You really think that a WELL built fiberglass box would be lighter the MDF (same cuft) ?

Look into 7 layer Birch 3/4" its wayyyy lighter that MDF , but its x2 as much$$ (per Lowes $45 for a sheet of Birch vs $21 for MDF) I did use this stuff back in my SPL days and the reason we used it over MDF was weight . When you running 18cuft boxes in your daily driver you can use all the help with LBS you can get

I just built me a box for the EVO with Birch 18x8x32(iirc) 1 kicker L5 (I know ever body loves JL here ) 2 4" ports tuned to 37hz and iam 100% sure that sub, box and amp weights less than the spare
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 08:12 PM
  #18  
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From: Toms River, NJ
Originally Posted by blaze_125
Weight can be reduced mostly by using different material for the box. Use fiberglass instead of 3/4 mdf and you'll shave almost 1/2 the weight of the box.
i'm not a huge car audio guy so correct me if i am wrong. i have been playing music for years now and from my experience i can tell you that the material of whatever is housing speakers, in this case the box, greatly effects the quality of the sound. if you were to put your top of the line sub in a 1/4in plywood box --> garbage. the density of the wood/comparable material really changes overall sound quality. usually the general "punch" of the speaker is lessened and the general sound quality becomes muddy......i figured that out the hard way.

just figured i'd put the idea on the table to linger for a while.

mark
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 08:25 PM
  #19  
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Fiberglass is fine to make boxes. It needs to be done right and is expensive but it does provide a good enclosure. Some of the mose expensive home speakers use fiberglass enclosures.
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 07:23 AM
  #20  
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From: NC
Originally Posted by comatose721
i'm not a huge car audio guy so correct me if i am wrong. i have been playing music for years now and from my experience i can tell you that the material of whatever is housing speakers, in this case the box, greatly effects the quality of the sound. if you were to put your top of the line sub in a 1/4in plywood box --> garbage. the density of the wood/comparable material really changes overall sound quality. usually the general "punch" of the speaker is lessened and the general sound quality becomes muddy......i figured that out the hard way.

just figured i'd put the idea on the table to linger for a while.

mark
True , 7 layer brich is very , VERY ridged .

*Sometimes* a box that "flexes" can have more output vs a better braced box but thats another direction than were going (spl) .

I have yet to hear wood make a differance in the sound of a sub , as long as the wood or materal smooth and ridged (doesnt flex , or resonate) . All we are doing is moving air and the box helps us control it , so as long as the wood , glass , fiberglass , meatal , plastic.....etc is used where its well bult , dosent flex and resinate you should be good to go . But this guy was asking about weight and Brich is by far the best choice.
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 12:52 PM
  #21  
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From: Toms River, NJ
Originally Posted by matt55
this guy was asking about weight and Brich is by far the best choice.
i understand that...what i was trying to get at is in my experience playing guitar-->better cabinets (the equivelant to an enclosure) are made of much heavier and denser woods. but you do present a good question: would the difference be noticable at such a low frequency?
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 08:13 PM
  #22  
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Yes but in terms of SPL. as for sound quality its more in how tight the box is (as in air tight) and where the sub is placed in the trunk or hatch.
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 08:44 PM
  #23  
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From: Shrewsbury MA
i had a crazy *** 3/4th inch acrylic case for 2 tens... ported with 3 inch holes no taper.. that thing was pretty light.. and absolutely POUNDED... but seeing as how easy it was to throw the car into a drift, the extra weight in the back was nice to level out the weight distribution in the drift.
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 09:45 PM
  #24  
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wow..i learned so much i this one thread....good thing as i'm about to install a sub and headunit this weekend thanks all of you
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 08:30 AM
  #25  
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I always used Ultra light MDF for enclosures. It weights less than half the weight of regular MDF, cuts easier, and needs no pre drilling. Fiberglass can be heavier than wood unless laid properly. I see far to much resin used many times and the enclosure winds up heavier. Glass is more for space saving and appearance than weight reduction.


I second the Illusion Audio recommendation. I have an ND15 Free air in my Evo. I made an aluminum baffle behind the back seat, bolted and glassed it sealed and have the sub centered there. I even have a strut brace because the depth is so shallow. You can see a little of it in this pic:


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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 01:40 PM
  #26  
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clean setup, you do it yourself or did u pay
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 02:03 PM
  #27  
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From: Central NJ
I even built the subs myself.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 09:05 PM
  #28  
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why did you make an enclosure for a free air sub? and also, pioneer makes a shallow 12", i don't know how heavy it is but it looks lighter, heres the link http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...401920,00.html
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 09:31 PM
  #29  
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I didn't build an enclosure, but I did have to completely seal off the front and rear waves. This was more work than just building a box but uses the least space.. Critical Mass has a subwoofer very similsr in design to the Illusion Audio. I'm not sure if they have a free air version.
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 05:08 PM
  #30  
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From: CA
i dont know much about this stuff, do you have a better picture?
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