Light Weight Subs
Originally Posted by blaze_125
Weight can be reduced mostly by using different material for the box. Use fiberglass instead of 3/4 mdf and you'll shave almost 1/2 the weight of the box.
Look into 7 layer Birch 3/4" its wayyyy lighter that MDF , but its x2 as much$$ (per Lowes $45 for a sheet of Birch vs $21 for MDF) I did use this stuff back in my SPL days and the reason we used it over MDF was weight . When you running 18cuft boxes in your daily driver you can use all the help with LBS you can get
I just built me a box for the EVO with Birch 18x8x32(iirc) 1 kicker L5 (I know ever body loves JL here
) 2 4" ports tuned to 37hz and iam 100% sure that sub, box and amp weights less than the spare
Originally Posted by blaze_125
Weight can be reduced mostly by using different material for the box. Use fiberglass instead of 3/4 mdf and you'll shave almost 1/2 the weight of the box.
just figured i'd put the idea on the table to linger for a while.
mark
Originally Posted by comatose721
i'm not a huge car audio guy so correct me if i am wrong. i have been playing music for years now and from my experience i can tell you that the material of whatever is housing speakers, in this case the box, greatly effects the quality of the sound. if you were to put your top of the line sub in a 1/4in plywood box --> garbage. the density of the wood/comparable material really changes overall sound quality. usually the general "punch" of the speaker is lessened and the general sound quality becomes muddy......i figured that out the hard way.
just figured i'd put the idea on the table to linger for a while.
mark

just figured i'd put the idea on the table to linger for a while.
mark

*Sometimes* a box that "flexes" can have more output vs a better braced box but thats another direction than were going (spl) .
I have yet to hear wood make a differance in the sound of a sub , as long as the wood or materal smooth and ridged (doesnt flex , or resonate) . All we are doing is moving air and the box helps us control it , so as long as the wood , glass , fiberglass , meatal , plastic.....etc is used where its well bult , dosent flex and resinate you should be good to go . But this guy was asking about weight and Brich is by far the best choice.
Originally Posted by matt55
this guy was asking about weight and Brich is by far the best choice.
i had a crazy *** 3/4th inch acrylic case for 2 tens... ported with 3 inch holes no taper.. that thing was pretty light.. and absolutely POUNDED... but seeing as how easy it was to throw the car into a drift, the extra weight in the back was nice to level out the weight distribution in the drift.
I always used Ultra light MDF for enclosures. It weights less than half the weight of regular MDF, cuts easier, and needs no pre drilling. Fiberglass can be heavier than wood unless laid properly. I see far to much resin used many times and the enclosure winds up heavier. Glass is more for space saving and appearance than weight reduction.
I second the Illusion Audio recommendation. I have an ND15 Free air in my Evo. I made an aluminum baffle behind the back seat, bolted and glassed it sealed and have the sub centered there. I even have a strut brace because the depth is so shallow. You can see a little of it in this pic:
I second the Illusion Audio recommendation. I have an ND15 Free air in my Evo. I made an aluminum baffle behind the back seat, bolted and glassed it sealed and have the sub centered there. I even have a strut brace because the depth is so shallow. You can see a little of it in this pic:
why did you make an enclosure for a free air sub? and also, pioneer makes a shallow 12", i don't know how heavy it is but it looks lighter, heres the link http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...401920,00.html
I didn't build an enclosure, but I did have to completely seal off the front and rear waves. This was more work than just building a box but uses the least space.. Critical Mass has a subwoofer very similsr in design to the Illusion Audio. I'm not sure if they have a free air version.
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