I've never needed a cap in any of my systems, but the last 4 or 5 cars I had had good electrical systems (2 Dodge Avengers, a Blazer, and my Durango) and my Audio systems were only about 500- 800 Watts...which brings me to my question. When you rate your system to match a Cap, do you use RMS or Peak? I use RMS when I look at speakers and amps, but due to the nature and use of a cap, would you look at the RMS?

 

caps are bad ask a pro

 

how is that?

 

a car audio store guy explained it to me before, i previously had a cap and i was gonna get it installed on my lancer but the guy was like you shouldnt do that, ****s up your alternator or battery or something.

 

I believe that article that cup linked us to had a link to another article, or another article was on the same site...but, if I remember correctly, it basically says that if your electrical system just can't handle the current draw, then the cap will make the alternator work even harder. I read that as if you have a huge system you need to replace the alternator and battery, but, most of the systems I've seen so far should be able to go with a 1farad cap if lights are dimming at idle. If they are dimming all the time, I would replace the battery, then the alternator.

 

the thing with a cap is that it doesn't provide MORE current, just instantaneous current. if you want to think about it in different terms, it is like a small battery that you put close to your amp. the main battery that would normally provide current directly to the amp is now charging up the capacitor, which in turn discharges it's current into the amp. a cap will charge to full storage rather rapidly, and can discharge rapidly too, which will improve bass responce and take some of the strain off your battery.

if your system isn't getting enough current, a cap WON'T solve this problem. in theory it is putting more strain on the battery/alternator, but it isn't really BAD for it. it is just an extra component that your battery/alternator has to provide current for.

so to conclude.....use a cap when you want to make your bass more accurate, and to solve minor electrical problems such as slight headlight dimming due to bass hits. a cap will help with the INSTANTANEOUS current responce. if your system isn't getting enough juice....you need to upgrade your alternator. if you added a cap first, it really isn't putting that much more strain on your alternator than your amps already are.

 

ahhh, the cap debate rages on.

There are 2 distinct crowds on the subject. Those who believe it's good, and those who believe it's bad. They both make valid points, and they're both right, to an extent.

For your straight up SPL car that does nothing but top volume burps they are bad bad bad. Because once the cap is drained, it is indeed a strain on the electrical system, and just another resistance the power must overcome before hitting the amp. Even many of your occasional SPL competitors won't use one for this reason.

For the daily driver, it's not a really needed item. But, it can assist with things like the headlights dimming on heavy bass notes. But this can also be assisted by upgrading "the big 3" which are 3 very important wires under your hood.

1. Engine to Frame (ground)
2. Battery - to Frame (ground)
3. Alternator output to Battery + (hot)

The wire doesn't need to be fancy, just make sure it's of a decent gauge (4 or better) and you've got good, solid connections.

Decide for yourself on the cap. The arguments from both sides will make you nutty.


http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...;f=22;t=002092

http://www.carsound.com/ubb/Archives...-1-000307.html

The first few posts of each of those threads is just pointless *****ing and banter but they do get intresting a little further down