Any new info on how to wire up the stock rockford amp to an aftermarket for a larger sub?

 

Ok guys after looking at the diagram here is what I can read from it so far... now do not quote me on this yet because I haven’t been able to verify it all yet. If you are looking to just add a sub amplifier then it should be pretty simple process. After to run a new power cable from either the batt. or run a distribution block under front seat so both the new amp and stock can use the same wire (not recommended but its an option) then from the diagram from this thread... the blue wire running from the D-25 wire harness which is # 34 is the 12v signal wire. Then all you need to do is get a high input signal converter from a electronics store that will convert the high input level wires from the head unit to low level RCA outputs. Those wires that you would tap are also on the D-25 harness # 21 and 28 also 22 and 30 and those run directly to the sub. Now I might be able to find the wires that run a little lower wattage current from the head unit to the amp for the converter but it would require me to experiment a bit before I know. Hope this helps you all. Let me know what you think you want to do.

If you want to test some of this out... just hook a volt meter up to the blue wire and if it goes on and off when the stereo turns on and off... then thats the signal wire... also the other wires should work beacuse it is what runs directly to the sub anyways. if you have any questions let me know and i will see if i can answer them .

 

Ok well I have to debug a couple things that I have read on some forums. First off I have the SS package and I decided t do a little testing today after work. The first thing I want to let you all that would like to put a second sub enclosure on the other side of the trunk using the same factory box is out of luck. The box is shaped to match the wheel well in the back and cant be used on the other side... even flipped upside down (I tried it a few ways). Second the theory of taking the screw out of the back of the magnet and it will sound better is well not true. I did a few things to test it. The first thing I did was examine the magnet and the hole that the screw goes to I put a light close to it and looked at it and came to the conclusion that I didn’t think it was attached to the voice coils in any way. The second test I did was I put a long small screwdriver into the hole and pushed down on whatever is on the other side of the hole. In theory if it was attached to the voice coil then the speaker would move back and forth... it didn’t. So I decided to do a technical test for those who still aren’t convinced. The next test I did was with a Db meter. I found that at three different volumes the Db level in the trunk stayed the same weather the screw was in or not. The final test I did was the power test.... An amp that is moving an efficient speaker takes less power to drive it. So in theory if there were something holding the speaker back from its full capacity then it would take more power to move the speaker. So I have a meter that shows wattage and again weather the screw is in or not... it uses the same power. I really hope this helps some people out with those questions.

I will also be doing some work with the stock amp and adding more amps with the stock system and I will let you all know what wires you need to use for what as soon as I get some more time to do it.

 

actually your not supposed to have anything on the magnet.
such as a screw
and yes theres a huge difference the sub moves twice as much
i work in car audio buddy

add on:
and in order to see this fully u must take the mesh grille off and then grind the flaps of the silver rind so they dont portrude outwards where they used to hold the grille in

 

The screw does not attach to anything but the magnet. It doesn't attach to the voice coil at all... it cant limit anything beacuse it isnt attached to anything... look at the test i did... the screw doesnt change anything. I also took the mash grill of and ised shorter screw with the same thread pitch as the stock screws just smaller so i eleminated the plastic piece all together.

 

u do realize that the magnet is what pulls the voice coil
heavier magnet heavier hits and cleaner
magnetizing this will affect performance

 

I do understand exactly how it works. I build and design them for a living. What I am saying is that the screw makes no difference in the performance of the sub. It is a placebo effect. You changed something and you think it is better when it isn't. I did the tests today as a side project at work. There were no changes in the SPL Decibel or wattage usage with the screw in or out. I understand the effect on magnets and the movment of the voice coil... but the screw doesnt have the effect on the system to make it "bump" more.

 

OMG im sorry actually i worded myself wrong
doing this helped to actually hit the notes instead everything being hiher than it was supposed to
my bad man
forgive me lol =)

 

You're an idiot. You have a Evo IX. He has a 10. Read his OP before you try to act smart.

 

Humm it might have opened up the FQ range a bit i cant tell that without testing it again. The company i work for does a lot of design with component systems... such as the new SRS premium upgrade packege on the 08 subarus.. the team downstairs worked with suby on that one. It has a similar enclosure with a bolt that is directly on the magnets similar to ours.

 

yea but i can definately say there was a difference and to the above post about fitment issues:
most lieyl you will not find a fitting sub
this sub is tiny

 

The best way is to replace the stock speker with another one but mounting depth is going to be a problem... you cant get a sub with a magnet bigger (deeper)then the fosgates beacuse it wont fit... the speaker wont sit inside the enclosure... the magnet will hit the back of the encosure. So if you want to keep it close to stock like me... i have to find a speaker that will work with it.... i dont want a big box in my trunk anymore... thats why i got the SS packege. Once you have worked on a million speaker systems you dont want to be working on yours lot.

 

lol yea well imma get either 2 jl audio 12in w6's or wo 12 inch kicker L7s get a custom box that has two 6x9s in it also and maybe 2 6.5s

 

That might work for you. I wish i could show you the new Precision Comp 12’s we have ready for the summer. DVC 2000 watt RMS per voice coil and an Precision 4000 watt dual channel amp designed to run these subs only. They are monsters. had a scaled down model of these in a premium home audio system that was made for producation as well.....

 

wanna send me a trial dude ill advertise your stuff at my work and such =)