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Need some advice on powering my 12w7

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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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Need some advice on powering my 12w7

I have bought one 12w7 and I am very pleased with this sub. I know that it is is power hungry and will need some serious power to feed this beast.... My goal is to have the bass felt in your core when sitting in the cabin. Anyways I have been looking at the specs on this speaker and they are as follows:

750watt rms @ 3ohms


I am wondering is there a amp that will power this hungry sub, at or around 750rms? And is any 2 ohm amp really stable at 3 ohms?

And one other question, I would like this sub to hit all notes on all ends of the specturm, is there is a box that can be built to do this?

Thanks for your time!
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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JL Audio 500, there was a review i read awhile ago and that amp is seriously under rated. My friend has a w7 in the prowedge box with the 500/1 and it pounds hard.

Just build the box to JL Spec. Personally I like SQ or SPL so I would go sealed.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 11:43 AM
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what size is his w7 and how does it sound? I want SQ but I hear it cuts out at certain low ranges.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 04:31 PM
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first of all, JL is built for quality, period. Also, JL specifically made the 1000/1 amp just for a W7. that is your best bet. JLs equipment is all underrated.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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I had a 10w7 in a slot ported box powered by a JL 500/1 & it sounded prefect. I'd get a 1000/1 for the 12w7 if I had it. A slot ported box will give you the best sound for that sub. The sub is very tight so it doesn't need a sealed box & the port will give you the extra boom. For what it's worth I think the 10w7 & 500/1 are the perfect setup for a car. I never felt the need for more bass.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by btownsoccer22
JL Audio 500, there was a review i read awhile ago and that amp is seriously under rated. My friend has a w7 in the prowedge box with the 500/1 and it pounds hard.

Just build the box to JL Spec. Personally I like SQ or SPL so I would go sealed.
do not seal a w7
sub will heat up and blow
seen it happen
i love my pro wedge box on my 12 W7 but it was a hassle jamming it in the trunk
i have my 800 RMS audiobahn powering it but im getting a 1000/1
thats serious power there
but yep love that core feeling bro

also the sub does not cut out whatsoever
ive hit every note and ive put it through intense testers
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:45 AM
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according to jl audio they are saying I will void my warranty if I push a 1000 watts through that. You guys are saying hook up a 1000/1 to it, according to their diagram, that's a sure death.

JL Audio is underrated meaning, no one has really given them the time of the day? Or I made a poor investment?

Say if I do get the 1000/1, I am already running a 300/2 for my highs, will I need to get a cap? I am running 4 gauge wire from the batt to the d block and from there, I have 4 going to the amps. I would rather not get a cap, w/o upgrading the big three. But if need me it will be another project for down the road. Is there a temporary fix for this until I am able to get the Big 3 upgraded, or am I looking to burn my alt right out of the car?

Sofia GTS, how does your audiobahn handle? I have heard mixed things about Audiobahn and their amps, pretty efficient? Just how big is that prowedge box, and why was it a hassle to jam in the trunk, it seems the trunk has a nice mouth on it.

Oh and can someone define "clipping" for me, what does it sound like? And how do I know if my setup is experiencing it?

and a link to the beast http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=9 scroll down to the bottom to see the suggested power. Thanks guys
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:53 AM
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I used to run a 12w7 with a 1000/1, and a 450/4 for mids/highs... Need to upgrade the alternator, and run some serious power wire. I now am running the Alpine pdx 1000/1, and 450/4 amps. Bottom line, they dont have the ***** that the JL amps had, but I saved on weight and footprint. BTW, I have a custom down firing ported box still for the 12w7- used to hit like a mother, and still deliver tight lows. (designed by Tweeter in MD) I may switch back to the 12w7. (instead of 2 10w6v2's) we'll see.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew333
I used to run a 12w7 with a 1000/1, and a 450/4 for mids/highs... Need to upgrade the alternator, and run some serious power wire. I now am running the Alpine pdx 1000/1, and 450/4 amps. Bottom line, they dont have the ***** that the JL amps had, but I saved on weight and footprint. BTW, I have a custom down firing ported box still for the 12w7- used to hit like a mother, and still deliver tight lows. (designed by Tweeter in MD) I may switch back to the 12w7. (instead of 2 10w6v2's) we'll see.
wanna sell that box? would you mind posting a pic of it I would like to see if I can take the idea and build one similar for my setup. I REALLY wanted to not be able to see the sub so that's pretty convenient for me. Just how hard is it to switch the alts out by yourself, I have seen people do it on chevys, but they have alot more room to work with, I am working with a sardine box >. Will 4 gauge work to carry the load? Do I need to get the dreaded 0 gauge? And where in the hell would I run that powerwire, that stiff wire!!! *sends chills down my spine*
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 08:05 AM
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goodness I cant wait to get this working, ugh its gonna be beautiful, question, would this sub drown out my highs? I mean my components in the front are getting 124w rms at the moment, and the back is rear fill.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 08:23 AM
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You can always tone down the gain on the jl1000/1- I set mine per the manual (measuring a/c voltage output from the amp with pink noise in at approx. 85 % volume on head unit) Let me see if I can find some pics on the computer of the box. I'll post some new pics later- I gotta get batteries in the digital.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Nevaeh
wanna sell that box? would you mind posting a pic of it I would like to see if I can take the idea and build one similar for my setup. I REALLY wanted to not be able to see the sub so that's pretty convenient for me. Just how hard is it to switch the alts out by yourself, I have seen people do it on chevys, but they have alot more room to work with, I am working with a sardine box >. Will 4 gauge work to carry the load? Do I need to get the dreaded 0 gauge? And where in the hell would I run that powerwire, that stiff wire!!! *sends chills down my spine*
ill let you know- shipping would be a pia.... if you run 2 4 ga, you should be ok. The alt swap is not too bad. I mounted my battery in the trunk, and have a 1/0 power, and a 1/0 ground running to it from the engine bay. (no ground loops)
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 08:28 AM
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okay this may or may not be a noob question, but wtf is pink noise? I found a link for it http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pink_noise but is it used to tune systems? I think I need to get this "pink noise".

Please do post some pics, I would love to see it, I guess the alt could handle the power. dammit ok well I need to look into upgrading that amp, can I get a better one from mitsu?
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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mitsu does not have them- do a search on here for high amp alternators, there was a couple group buys from some good builders. pink noise is static- like a channel on your tv that is all fuzz. The noise has the same decibel level from 15 to 22k hz. You can also use pink noise for tuning, with a rta meter. (I used to do all this for a living) Ill post up some pics later- gotta hit the sack now. (working o/n)
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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you can get custom high output alternators from ohio generator (http://ohiogen.com/) and from excessive amperage (http://excessiveamperage.com/). they are probably the 2 best companies to get alternators from, but be prepared to pay. a, i think, 300 amp alternator from excessive amperage is about 450 bucks shipped, and from ohio gen is about 475 shipped. yes, i called both places and got quotes for my 08 GTS and gave them the alternator code and everthing. but excessive amperag can powder coat them any color for only 40 bucks more!
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