Nevaeh

anyone have these out there?

OniLancer

I'll be doing the 2 ground runs in the Big 3 in about a week and a half when I do my install. I'll try and post some pics then. The alternator is in a weird spot so I'll have to do some looking to see how to make it an easy DIY for it while I'm in there

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

ill get some pics soon

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

ok, here are the pics. all wiring is 1/0 gauge, and the alternator and battery stock grounding points/bolts are still used.

I STRONGLY suggest upgrading your negative terminal:

btw, that tube with the twig in it is for my boost gauge for when i get my turbo

I couldn't get a pic of it connected at the alternator, but its easy to tell where it connects. however you have to go under the car to put it on because you cannot loosen the blot from above...I tried lol The positive connection is on the right (if looking from in front of the car) and covered by a black plastic cover. Here's a pic of the wire running between the intake manifold and the engine, to hide the wire:


positive wire running under the radiator hose towards the battery:


Detail of wire route to battery:


Detail of wire connected at battery. You have to bend the terminal so it fits nicely. there IS a certain angle it needs to be bent at though in order to make it fit on the stock terminal without disrupting any other things connected to it:


i didnt bother upgrading the ground from the battery to engine because all that is for is the starter. Instead, I upgraded the alternator ground:


Hope this helps!

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

go under the car with a ratchet and an extension haha. but fish the wire through where you want first.

OniLancer

Well, I live in an appartment atm, so I don't have ramps and a garage, so it's really hard for me to get under my car (I'm not small either ). But it doesn't matter if you do the alternator ground or the batt to engine, since the alternator should be grounded to the engine anyway from the mounting bolts. It never hurts to go the extra mile though!

EDIT: Also, shouldn't you put some heat resistant covering around the wire to the alt if you run it that close to the engine?

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

the gound wire used for the alternator is honestly about the size of speaker wire thats why i changed it

and the area that the wire is running doesn't get hot at all, just kind of warm...it's been fine for months now!

OniLancer

Nice thing about mine is I ordered a Powermaster D5100R for my install so I don't have to try to use that silly terminal set up that Mitsu used from the factory.

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

so you're gonna be running 2 batteries?

OniLancer

No, just 1. The 5100R has 1600 max amps so with 1/0 I'll be golden. Not to mention our stock alternator is just the right size for a system running around 1200-1300 watts rms. The D5100R is a group 51 battery technically (ours are group 35) but it's smaller than a regular group 51 and is almost the same size as ours.

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

actually our stock alt is kinda small for a system like that. i was running 1500 watts RMS and my lights really dimmed, even all the interior lights. its 140 amps (or 120?) but thats enough for the CAR's components. With a powerful system, you are running the cars components ALONG with the high powered system, resulting in the need for more amps.

OniLancer

It's 120 which is plenty enough for that much 1200 watts if you do it right. You just need to do the big 3 and get a real good battery, not that stock crap. And lots of 1/0!

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

haha yeah it would def work with a new battery! I had planned on a Kinetic HC1800 because it was pretty much the exact same size as stock (no relocaing or heavy modifying) and put out insane power! I was also in the process of upgrading to all 1/0 gauge...the only piece of wire I had left to upgrade was from the main fuse back to the amp...everything else was 1/0 already haha but i never got the money before i decided to sell everything.