remote wire for 2 amps
remote wire for 2 amps
I am right now going through and getting the gear to wire this up to our factory HU on a 2009 mitsu.
I know I will need a 2 amp wire kit, and a RCA out jack so I can tap into some wires behind the HU, for the rear channel, does anyone know the colors of the wires that I can tap into to put the subs on??
Also is there a wire that supplies power to the head unit when the key is turned on, that way I can tap into for remote? Maybe the ignition wire on the back of the HU? I don't want to run two remotes off one fuse in the fuse box, thats asking to blow the fuse everytime...
I know I will need a 2 amp wire kit, and a RCA out jack so I can tap into some wires behind the HU, for the rear channel, does anyone know the colors of the wires that I can tap into to put the subs on??
Also is there a wire that supplies power to the head unit when the key is turned on, that way I can tap into for remote? Maybe the ignition wire on the back of the HU? I don't want to run two remotes off one fuse in the fuse box, thats asking to blow the fuse everytime...
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more questions, eh? lol dont buy a 2 amp wiring kit, its a waste of money! buy all the wiring separate and do it yourself, it will be cheaper and better quality. idk which wires you need to tap into behind the radio for the rear speakers, but i know in the B-pillars there is i think a yellow wire and turquoise wire for the rear speakers, before it goes through the frame into the door. also, when you amp your speakers, you HAVE TO run the speaker wire from the amp all the way through the boot to the speaker itself. you cant tap into the existing speaker wire or else it will for some reason interfere with the power door locks, idk why but it does. the RCA out jack you are talking about is a line out converter. tap into the cig lighter fuse in the drivers fuse box, run that to one amp, then daisy chain off that amp to the second amp. this wire doesnt need much amperage at all....if you want, get an add-a-fuse link for it. I tried finding an ignition wire behind the HU, and I thought I did, but for some reason when i actually had my amp hooked up to it, it stayed on when the car was off....
how would buying TWO single amp wiring kits be cheaper then buying ONE 2 amp wiring kit, granted I already have a amp wired up in the car for the front deck. I could always just buy an additional kit. I'll use the cig light for the remote for sure.... I'm going to have to re run the power wire through the car because i'm getting feed back through the amp I'm using right now. I found a wiring diagram somewhere that gave me the wires off the back of the HU that was accurate I just have to find it again.. I would like to tap the sub line-out converter in the same place that I tapped the other one behind the HU...
these line-out converters can't pick up electronic noise can they?
these line-out converters can't pick up electronic noise can they?
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lol you arent reading right, i didnt say buy 2 single amp kits. I said buy all the wire separate and do it yourself.....buy the power wire by the foot, a small distribution block, and RCAs from a car audio shop, and remote wire is cheap from radioshack or even walmart or something. i dont think LOCs can pick up anything, but start by running your power wire and RCAs on OPPOSITE sides of the car
for sure I'll do that, how does power wire normally cost by the foot? I know I can head to the radio shack to get the wire, I'm sure curious though.. I am positive that audio shops mark up that **** lol
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usually its 3-4 bucks per foot, but its still cheaper and most likely better quality than buying an amp kit. also, im lookin at my service manual and it says that the speaker wire colors off the radio connector are:
FL:
+: white-blue
-: black-yellow
FR:
+: white-red
-: black-red
RL:
+: yellow-blue
-: gray-blue
RR:
+: yellow-red
-: gray-red
FL:
+: white-blue
-: black-yellow
FR:
+: white-red
-: black-red
RL:
+: yellow-blue
-: gray-blue
RR:
+: yellow-red
-: gray-red
Last edited by yitzac1990; Feb 17, 2010 at 11:45 AM.
****ing sweet!! I love it!! the feedback has to be coming from the power wire that I have running along the door panel on the drivers side, i think at one point it crosses over the fuse box.... I'm not sure, but I have read somewhere that you run the power wire under neath the car itself
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noooo!! dont run the power wire under the car haha what if you kick something up and it busts your power wire, touches a ground point, and shorts your entire car while driving?? or if someone doesnt like you they can crawl under your car and cut the wire haha its easiest to put the power wire through the firewall right next to the main wire harness near the middle (yes drill a hole a couple inches towards the driver side of where the wiring harness goes through) and then run the wire in there, over top the pedals, and down the side behind the fuse box, under all the side paneling. run the RCAs through behind the glove compartment, and down along the side and under the passenger side panels.
okay question
battery + ->4g--[Inline fuse]-->Distro Block->2x8g->---[Inline fuse]--> amps
Is it okay to have a 4g coming off the battery going to a splitter down to 8 gauge wire to the amps with their own in line fuses?
battery + ->4g--[Inline fuse]-->Distro Block->2x8g->---[Inline fuse]--> amps
Is it okay to have a 4g coming off the battery going to a splitter down to 8 gauge wire to the amps with their own in line fuses?
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sounds good to me! for the inline fuse in the 4 gauge, total up all the fuses in both (or all) amps and that will be the fuse rating for the main in-line fuse. for the 8 gauge going to each amp, total up the fuses for THAT amp that its running to and that will be the fuse for that amp. just in case! lol
great, another question, where did you mount your amps in the trunk? i am thinking along the sides of the firewall right behind the seat? Maybe the little indentions in the truck behind the tire wells? What do you think? I also have some pretty beefy infinity crossovers over for my front components that I have just chilling in the zipper compartment in the back of both captain chairs that i need to mount in the trunk... needless to say I am going to make this a all day event...
Oh, should I ground the amps at two different points or should I use a common ground? where is a good place to ground in the trunk? The speaker box is going to take up very little space in the back so I would like to keep the rest of the space back there as well.
Oh, should I ground the amps at two different points or should I use a common ground? where is a good place to ground in the trunk? The speaker box is going to take up very little space in the back so I would like to keep the rest of the space back there as well.
U can ground it either way a ground is a ground. It's really your preference. but as far as a good place to ground it u just need to make sure that it's BARE metal, me personally i cut the carpet and run the wire through it, gives it a very clean appearance. mounting the amp is ur call as well, put it somewhere that's out of the way but also so you don't have to run 5ft of ground and speaker wire.
right, makes sense, one last question lol sorry I'm full of them what is the reserve on the es alts? I am just trying to make sure I buy the right fuse, I think I did the math right and all the amps came to about 47amps does that seem right?


