Deck power..
Deck power..
..wow, its awesome. Im not even sure if I should bother spending a grand getting subs/amps/car alarm etc. Like seriously, I didnt think the trunk would rattle unless I had subs inside.
http://www.eclipse-web.com/products/cd/cd3434.htm
Anyways, just giving a huge thumbs up to eclipse. It was around 65 dollars more than a similiar Alpine deck but the whole antitheft/6 year warranty thing saves me the hassle.
http://www.eclipse-web.com/products/cd/cd3434.htm
Anyways, just giving a huge thumbs up to eclipse. It was around 65 dollars more than a similiar Alpine deck but the whole antitheft/6 year warranty thing saves me the hassle.
if you are using stock speakers... they will probably blow out if you are rattling the trunk and such with them.. they are only rated for 15w rms... that HU puts out 50max, which is probably 21-23w rms... then again, if you have better speakers, NM!
Originally Posted by psionic98
if you are using stock speakers... they will probably blow out if you are rattling the trunk and such with them.. they are only rated for 15w rms... that HU puts out 50max, which is probably 21-23w rms... then again, if you have better speakers, NM!
u probably won't blow out your speakers unless u power them with an external amp..and u can get some good bass with like 500-600 bucks. a good amp and one good 12" sub (like an infinity perfect 12.1 or something). that should still give u a satisfying bump.
Originally Posted by bobaab
u probably won't blow out your speakers unless u power them with an external amp..and u can get some good bass with like 500-600 bucks. a good amp and one good 12" sub (like an infinity perfect 12.1 or something). that should still give u a satisfying bump.
if you were to add an external amplifier, you would be at least matching the speakers RMS wattage or surpassing it with a higher wattage allowing for clean sound no matter what volume levels. when a speaker is fed a good amount of watts over it's RMS wattage, it doesn't blow, it just has more power to work with.
i had a pair of Alpine Type S speakers in my front door (40 or 50 RMS) and a pair of old-school Alpine speakers in the rear deck (30 or 40 RMS) and i was running them of a JL 300/4; that's 75 watts RMS per speaker. that's double the power for the rear speakers, and i had absolutely no problems cranking it upto full volume.
off the deck itself you can only crank it to a certain volume that the speakers start popping and cracking and then you gotta turn it down. with an amp and everything set up properly... no matter how high you crank it, a pop/crack will never be heard.
those pops and cracks are caused by the headunits lack of power..a higher power amp can turn up the speakers without cracking and popping because it delivers a cleaner signal at lower power. im not sure if the cracking and popping causes the speakers to blow out, though.
The cracking and popping = distortion. Distortion is the main reason factory speakers in cars blow. Kids wanna crank it up with insufficient power. They hear distortion and don't care... then you hear "my speakers are constantly popping/cracking no matter what volume, what's wrong with them?". They're blown, sucka!
But, yea, you're right about the pops/cracks (distortion) being caused by a lack of power. But, distortion is caused by a dirty signal, which when fed to a speaker long enough will destroy it.
But, yea, you're right about the pops/cracks (distortion) being caused by a lack of power. But, distortion is caused by a dirty signal, which when fed to a speaker long enough will destroy it.
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Originally Posted by bobaab
k..just like bad food can kill ya
But, the learning process is all about trial & error and/or learning from stupid peoples' mistakes. Count me as one of them
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learnin new things..and getting corrected everyday 