Anyone else with a sub notice that when the bass hits, your engine misfires harder and the RPMS dip lower than when the sub isn't hitting? From watching my wideband i noticed that as the bass hits, my AFR leans out to around 20ish bouncing all around the lean side and the engine starts misfiring hard and the RPMs at idle dip randomely...Oh by the way this is with RRMs Piggy Version 2. Anyone???

 

maybe ur sub is sucking all the electrical juice and so the piggy isnt able to run/function properly and thus not adjust the stock ecu values(how ever it works) so its fudging up?
maybe get a capasitor or even just a volt meter first to see what is wrong?

i have a similar prob when i use all 4 power window buttons at the same time, the rpms drop by about 2-500 (no piggy tho) ...

just a thought...

 

yah, all 4 power window buttons dim my lights pretty bad. Kinda weird, I didn't know that they drained the power that much.

 

You could upgrade your alternator if the issue exists outside of just your sub, which a proper capacitor would likely fix

 

ur battery is going down the tube.

 

I thought it might be the battery but i checked it and it seems ot hold the charge. 14.?? when the engines running and 12 when it's off...
I got 1 Farad capacitor but would a larger one make that much of a difference?

 

The caps are mainly only good for low intermittent bass hits.. once you have a couple of bass hits gone through, the cap is discharged and you're back on battery power, and it takes a while for the cap to catch up again. Better alternator and possibly a grounding kit would likely help you more.

There are good caps out there... but you gotta pay big $$ for them. Your run of the mill cap isn't gonna be able to soak up enough juice to last long.

 

I doubt the piggy would be the faulty part here. I'd blame the overall electrical system.

 

Ya i figured that because the piggy uses an electrical input that any drop in that voltage would mess it up which it seems to be doing...Well speaking of alternators, one with a bigger amperage would be good right?

 

Yea, a 90 amp would be good. If you have your stock altenator out, a rebuild shop can usually swap the guts out of it for you and upgrade it. Otherwise, a replacement should be around the same price as well.

 

aie yai yai!......Thats pretty expensive i can guess...More amperage wouldn't hurt any other elctrical components right(thinking about fuses burning out or wire insulation burning due to overloading them)??

 

naw... 90 amp is pretty standard. A friend of mine had it done at a local rebuild shop and it cost $120 CDN, so it shouldn't be too expensive for you.

 

hmmmm....but that means i gotta be without an alternatior fir a while which means no car.... dunno bout that..

 

just replace it with a new one if you are worried about that.

 

yeah i have had problems latey with my idle. when i turn on my car it will turn over then shut off. if i hold a rev at about 1,000rpm for a few sec. it will idle fine, but if i turn the a/c or heat on the idle falls to about 250 then cuts off. anyone have any ideas on how to fix this.