Bugz

Hi Everyone,

I have been having a weird problem on my 2002 lancer OZ 2.0L since the past 3 days.

I had my hazard lights on for about 2 mins and I tried starting my car simultaneously. The car stalled on me. Then when I turned the key back on, I would not get any lights on my dashboard, nor would the engine, oil, etc lights turn on. The car would also not turn on. I thought it would be a problem with a fuse in the car. I removed the 7.5A engine fuse and with the fuse removed, I could start the car!!! The only problem was it showed the handbrake and service engine lights on. I bought a new one and replaced the fuse. The car started and now there was no warning signs on the dashboard.

Later that day I went to pick a friend and again this time the car did not start, this time round I did not have the hazard lights on though. I tried replacing the fuse, but the fuse was not the problem. I got a friends car and jump start my car and it started. I assume it was the battery then.

I got the alternator checked and it was fine. That was not the problem. I got the battery replaced. Now I have started having other problems.

Initially in the mornings when the car would be cold, it would rev a lot to heat the engine up. Now it does not rev as much. Also when I am waiting at a signal, the engine revs very low and seems as if it is almost about to die down. I have to keep revving the engine to keep it alive. While doing so, my engine starts to vibrate at around 2000rpm and makes a cracking noise.

Also while changing gears, after I leave the clutch, the gear takes a second to swap into place. It is not a very smooth gear shift.

Does someone know what could be the reason behind these things?
I would really appreciate your help on this issue. I have been said that my spark plugs would be bad or I need new batteries, but then what would be the reason for the low engine revs. I know it is good since I would be saving some more fuel when waiting at a signal ;-) but not always if I have to rev it to keep it alive.

mstove

iTrader: (3)

I can't start to imagine what's causing the problem with the shifting.

As for the engine revs, the intermittant starting problem, shaking, etc...
Possibility one or more of your spark plugs is bad, or maybe the distributor cap. I know you said you replaced the battery but was there any corrossion on the leads connected to the battery? If so did you clean those off well? On a previous car I had problems starting, could jump fine and would start on its own sometimes but cleaned all the corrossion off (wasn't even much on there to begin with) and then no more problems.

Keep in mind this is all speculation. I really don't know what could be causing all those problems, just suggestions. Hopefully someone more knowledgable will post on here to help out. Good luck.

TheShortBus

iTrader: (14)

the oem bat clamps blow a big one. get some new ones even if that isnt the problem

LongIslandOZ

iTrader: (1)

Does the engine stumble and have low rpm's only when cold then runs normal when its at operating temperature? That could be the throttle position sensor, thats what happened when mine went bad.. what do you mean by the gear taking a second to go into place? Is this after you shift into gear, let out the clutch, then what happens?

LongIslandOZ

iTrader: (1)

Does the engine stumble and have low rpm's only when cold then runs normal when its at operating temperature? That could be the throttle position sensor, thats what happened when mine went bad.. what do you mean by the gear taking a second to go into place? Is this after you shift into gear, let out the clutch, then what happens?

Bugz

The problem was with the battery and the tips actually. the tips were bad due to which the connection was not proper and the battery i got was bad so i had to go replace it.....

I had got my battery from a shady store for cheap and so returned it and got a new one...

Bugz

Thanks everyone for all your inputs though...

Redlancer

iTrader: (4)

You change the Batterie, the ECU is in learning process... Just do I ride in a little street with no traffic. Make 3 to 5 stop, like you stop at a red ligth.

Let the car adjust is idle... It will go very low and it will go up slowly to is target. That a part of the learning process the Ecu need to do.

cyrax5709

So Im having a similar problem. At idle it tries to die. but on ly at idle. Going down the road its fine. Now, Ive noticed that my A/F gauge goes crazy when it tries to die. its obviously dumping too much fuel but what could be causing this? I just replaced the MAF sensor, it made a slight difference. which I figured it would seeing as I have 150,000 miles on the car. But could the root be the Throttle Position Sensor?